airplane canopy's

falconmod

Don't forget about trying to glue it to the frame without smearing the glue onto the transparency.   I'd much rather mask it with either tamiya tape or liquid mask.

John

 

This.  I make a mess when it comes to glue.  The more I try to not get it everywhere, the more I get it everywhere.

Eduard canopy masks...better than sliced bread. 

On newer aircraft with simple canopy framing I used Bare Metal Foil to finish the framing. I use Eduard precut masks on  WW II bombers with a lot of complex framing.

WillysMB

Hmmm...

1/72 Lancaster with separate frame and glazing...

I get shivers just thinking about it.

 

Or a G4M "Betty"

Hi;

   On some framing I use the color closest to what I can get in Flexible Auto striping tape . I cut my sections and lay them out and paint them The color they need to be. Peel off the backing, Attach to  the canopies. Then turn it over and using a Very Fine brush do the inner color.

 This is something I started doing to multi-framed canopies years ago. 

Hi; 

 I remember some REVELL kits like that. Now MONOGRAM did at least two I remember. The Texan trainer and the P-51-D . The trick with canopies is yes, they are thick so if you have problems with it fitting the frame or vice versa then Hot water is your friend.

 I like to use my trusty Mattel Vac-U-Form to do my canopies, using the kit part as the master. This method has worked for me for years.

I've built a few like that.  Six a one to half dozen to me.  I got the hang of masking canopies after awhile.  The ones that are harder are the hoods, like the F4F and SBD, but have develped tricks for those too.  There was a thread recently in the Tools, Techiques and Reference Materials section.  It was either in the techiques or the painting and airbrushing forum, and folks discussed their techniquess.

Bob-what's the kit?  I bet we can help you get a replacement.

Hmmm...

1/72 Lancaster with separate frame and glazing...

I get shivers just thinking about it.

the Baron

Greg, I had the same thought, and I almost passed my tea through my nose when I saw your reply!

Thanks for enjoying my kidding around, Brad. Always makes it more fun to get feedback.

And yes, back to Bob's question (and I enjoyed your beer/beer emojis .....been there, done that....)

Good advice so far. And I wonder if anyone makes a canopy mask set for your model? I don't know if you've ever used one, but they make it process of canopy painting almost painless. Almost.

You can try to vac-form the canopy yourself! It can look daunting, but it is not as hard as one might think. Some time ago, I made a post in my blog, showing how I vac-formed a new canopy, because the kit one was to nasty to be used. You can check it here:

http://mpminiatures.wordpress.com/2016/02/11/me-262-a-1au-3-172-scale-part-2/#more-536

In this example, I used the kit canopy to create the master used to form the new canopy, but you can create your own out of wood, epoxy putty, etc... just polish it to a very high sheen (with wood, you can coat it with ca glue, let it completely cure and them polish this surface; it usually results very well). I hope you find this helpful.

Cheers

I just remembered.  The first plastic model I ever built was the box scale Revell F-89D, which had a canopy separate from the surrounding metal framing.  I clearly remember cracking the bow in the middle trying to get it to fit into the groove in the clear part.  So perhaps at least Revell has been there, done that, and found it wanting, as I don't recall other similar examples where framing that passed over the canopy was molded separately by Revell.  Of course, many of the kits they were making back then had no glass at all and none of us had heard of using white glue.  Well, there was probably one guy somewhere who knew, having graduated from Stromberg wood kits, but he probably was older than the 8 or 9 years old I was in 1955.

One thing I did not remember, and did not remark when I much later built another, was that the kit has amazingly fine recessed panel lines and rivet detail, counterbalanced by raised lines where the insignia are.

Woops: 2018 

Don't forget about trying to glue it to the frame without smearing the glue onto the transparency.   I'd much rather mask it with either tamiya tape or liquid mask.

John

Bob D

I contacted Revell and they quit making the model in 1918. I guess my model will sit without a Canopy.

Greg

 

Bob D

......they quit making the model in 1918. I guess my model will sit without a Canopy. 

Wow, talk about a vintage kit!

 

Greg, I had the same thought, and I almost passed my tea through my nose when I saw your reply!

Bob D

......they quit making the model in 1918. I guess my model will sit without a Canopy.

Wow, talk about a vintage kit!

I contacted Revell and they quit making the model in 1918. I guess my model will sit without a Canopy.

I wouldn't like that at all. Too hard to hide the transition from opaque to clear.

I think the necessary thickness of the clear parts would leave unsightly visible edges where they meet the framing.  It would be hard to get the parts to fit perfectly with no steps or gaps.  That being said, there must be successful examples on the market now.

In the same vein as the OP’s suggestion, I’d like to see tampo printed canopy det cords in canopies.  Currently there are only decals and frosted molded-in det cords.  The tampo print process is well developed and can print fine wiggly white lines with great precision.  One aftermarket company does a vinyl cut det cord, but only for 1/48 Harrier IIs.

Sounds like a great idea to me. Maybe one of the garage businesses could do it? Would probably sell like hotcakes.

Jim  

sounds like that would be a nightmare!