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What's your technique for wing root wear?

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dmk
  • Member since
    September 2008
  • From: North Carolina, USA
What's your technique for wing root wear?
Posted by dmk on Thursday, July 23, 2020 11:17 AM

In photos, you see a lot of scuffing of the paint and even wear down to the metal on WW2 fighter aircraft, where the pilots and maintenance crew walk on the wing root to gain access to the cockpit and sometimes it even extends somewhat out to the wing gun access panels.

 

I've tried dry brushing, pencils, and also tried spraying layers of aluminum and primers then lightly sanding, sometimes in combination with salt as a mask.  I'm just not able to get it to look realistic, compared to photos.

 

I bought some AK chipping fluid to try (or maybe hairspray), but I don't use acrylic paints, instead preferring lacquers and enamels, so I'm not sure if those will work.

 

 What is your technique for simulating this wear?

 
  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Thursday, July 23, 2020 12:01 PM

I drybrush a sliver or aluminum color, for larger patches of wear.  I'll use a fine brush and thinned paint or ink, for smaller flakes or spots of wear.

I use acrylics, eg, Tamiya's flat aluminum, and enamels, like Model Master or Testor enamels.  They absolutely work.

I tried the salt technique to beat up the finish on a Zero, but it was more effort than I felt necessary.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by seastallion53 on Thursday, July 23, 2020 12:55 PM

I use a tiny piece of natural sea spunge and dry dab with a tiny bit of aluminum.  

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by TheMongoose on Thursday, July 23, 2020 4:41 PM

I copy seastallion ;-)

In the pattern: Scale Shipyard's 1/48 Balao Class Sub! leaning out the list...NOT! Ha, added to it again - Viper MkVii, 1/32 THUD & F-15J plus a weekend madness build!

dmk
  • Member since
    September 2008
  • From: North Carolina, USA
Posted by dmk on Thursday, July 23, 2020 5:29 PM

That FW looks good TheMongoose!

 I actually did have good luck with the sponge technique on a Star Wars X-wing.  Maybe I need to practice that some more, and also some dry brushing.

 

Thanks for the suggestions guys. 

 
dmk
  • Member since
    September 2008
  • From: North Carolina, USA
Posted by dmk on Thursday, July 23, 2020 5:34 PM

the Baron
I tried the salt technique to beat up the finish on a Zero, but it was more effort than I felt necessary.

I think salt works good for chipped or peeling paint, but the edges are too sharp for scuffing and wing root wear.

 

 

 
  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by TheMongoose on Thursday, July 23, 2020 5:48 PM

dmk

That FW looks good TheMongoose!

 I actually did have good luck with the sponge technique on a Star Wars X-wing.  Maybe I need to practice that some more, and also some dry brushing.

 

Thanks for the suggestions guys. 

 
 

your Comment reminded me, I dabbed the sponge off pretty good. think of it as dry brushing with a sponge almost. Wasted lots of paint on the paper towel but hey, it's all about the end result!

In the pattern: Scale Shipyard's 1/48 Balao Class Sub! leaning out the list...NOT! Ha, added to it again - Viper MkVii, 1/32 THUD & F-15J plus a weekend madness build!

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Thursday, July 23, 2020 6:45 PM

All of the methods previously described can work well. It all depends on the scale and the amount of wear you want to replicate.

I use the salt or hair spray for larger scale chipping and more on armor. The hair spray works very well when trying to simulate a worn white wash of winter camoflage. Dry brushing  work on most any scale for a even type of worn look.

I have seen a metallic enamel base coat, then hair spray followed by an acrylic top coat, then light sanding (I do not have an example of my own to show).

Another method not previously mentioned which I have used successfully in larger scale WW2 era aircraft is the round / pointed toothpick and chrome silver method. It works particularly good in grooves between panels to replicate the chipping or wear on the edge of a panel. That works well for gun bays, radio or maintenance access doors, cockpit / canopy access areas, etc. 

My number "go-to" choice for wing worn areas is a combination of dry brush and toothpick followed up with a panel line wash.

I'm sure there are other techniques too. I think they all work well, but again it depends on the scale, subject, and desired effect.

Ben

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

LAST COMPLETED:

1/35 Churchill Mk IV AVRE with bridge - DONE

NEXT PROJECT:

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  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, July 23, 2020 7:05 PM

I use different methods, dry brushing, hairspray, salt  and sanding the paint. Here I shot aluminum then shot the top coat over it. Next day I used several grit pads to scuff the top coat and expose the metal paint.

same here

and salt here

Hair spray from the dollar store decanted

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

dmk
  • Member since
    September 2008
  • From: North Carolina, USA
Posted by dmk on Friday, July 24, 2020 12:03 PM

plasticjunkie

I use different methods, dry brushing, hairspray, salt  and sanding the paint. Here I shot aluminum then shot the top coat over it. Next day I used several grit pads to scuff the top coat and expose the metal paint.

Wow, those look great plasticjunkie!  I need to try that scuffing technique again. I really like the effect that you got.

 

Thanks Guys.

 
  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, July 24, 2020 12:28 PM

the Baron

I drybrush a sliver or aluminum color, for larger patches of wear.  I'll use a fine brush and thinned paint or ink, for smaller flakes or spots of wear.

I use acrylics, eg, Tamiya's flat aluminum, and enamels, like Model Master or Testor enamels.  They absolutely work.

I tried the salt technique to beat up the finish on a Zero, but it was more effort than I felt necessary.

 

Ditto- I use Testors flat aluminum, sometimes I mix medium gray and aluminum half and half for a more weathered look.  I also use end of toothpick to make small chips.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Friday, July 24, 2020 6:02 PM

Thanks dmk. Let the aluminum cure several days then spray the topcoat and when dry to the touch carefully scuff the area. You want the undercoat fairly cured and the top coat to be  fresh for easier scuffing.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    January 2020
Posted by Space Ranger on Friday, July 24, 2020 6:08 PM

Soft-soled shoes.

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