Attaching canopies...

Lufbery

Member since
December 2002
From: Harrisburg, PA

Attaching canopies...

Posted by Lufbery on Friday, September 19, 2003 9:33 AM

Hi all,

I the past, I've attached canopies to my model planes with regular old white glue. Does anyone else have a favorite method or material for attaching canopies?

Regards,

-Drew

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

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nsclcctl

Member since
May 2003
From: USA

Posted by nsclcctl on Friday, September 19, 2003 10:19 AM

Thats actually how I do it when I do it. I tend to not attach them because I want to see in the canopy. If there is any detail on most planes, it is in the cockpit. I have yet to understand why you would want to permanantly glue on the cockpit and never see what you did in terms of painting, drybrushing and so forth. Just my 2 cents worth.

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berny13

Member since
February 2003
From: Panama City, Florida, Hurricane Alley

Posted by berny13 on Friday, September 19, 2003 10:22 AM

I have always used white glue. I have heard if you dip the canopy and windshield in future you can use CA, but I have been to afraid to try it. I have also used a new product called Hypo-tube cement. It is made for watch crystals. It works very well and will not fog clear plastic. You can get it through Micro-Mark.

Berny

Phormer Phantom Phixer

On the bench

TF-102A Delta Dagger, 32nd FIS, 54-1370, 1/48 scale. Monogram Pro Modeler with C&H conversion.

Revell F-4E Phantom II 33rd TFW, 58th TFS, 69-260, 1/32 scale.

Tamiya F-4D Phantom II, 13th TFS, 66-8711, 1/32 scale. F-4 Phantom Group Build.

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checkmateking02

Member since
September 2003
From: AandF in the Badger State

Posted by checkmateking02 on Friday, September 19, 2003 10:23 AM

Drew:
I like the white glue method, but I use Sobo craft glue (rather than Elmer's or some kind of "school" glue). The Sobo is tough and holds well, even when thinned. Sometimes it takes multiple applications to fill the seam. I glue the canopies on before painting (plastic to plastic), clean up the joints with a Q-tip and water, then paint. Just curious: why are you looking for a different method?

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Lufbery

Member since
December 2002
From: Harrisburg, PA

Posted by Lufbery on Friday, September 19, 2003 11:44 AM

QUOTE: Originally posted by checkmateking02

Drew:
I like the white glue method, but I use Sobo craft glue (rather than Elmer's or some kind of "school" glue). The Sobo is tough and holds well, even when thinned. Sometimes it takes multiple applications to fill the seam. I glue the canopies on before painting (plastic to plastic), clean up the joints with a Q-tip and water, then paint. Just curious: why are you looking for a different method?

Well, I have a tube of the Sobo glue and wondered if it would work. I've also heard of some other glues that people use and I was trying to get a feel for what works best.

What do you thin the Sobo with?

Regards,

-Drew

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, September 19, 2003 12:28 PM

I've had very good success "glueing" the canoppies with gloss clear paint. It may not be as strong as CA or Elmer's, but for display purposes, it works very well. Guaranteed not to fog the canopy!

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Edit

John P

Member since
February 2003
From: Joisey

Posted by John P on Friday, September 19, 2003 12:29 PM

QUOTE: Originally posted by berny13

I have always used white glue. I have heard if you dip the canopy and windshield in future you can use CA,

Yes, that works very well. I do it all the time. It keeps regular plastic cement from fogging the part too. (As long as you apply it sparingly).

-------------------------------

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glweeks

Member since
September 2003
From: USA

Posted by glweeks on Friday, September 19, 2003 4:36 PM

I've been using testors clear parts glue it's milkey but dries clear and you can make/fill small windows with it. How about all those window pain goo's (micro-mark has one) do they dry clear enough or can they get milkey looking around the edges (testor's will if you use too much). My biggest problems are canopy masking and decal visibility (yes I use micro set, sol and everything else plus gloss first but sometimes it just ain't happenin) glueing the canopy down (open or shut) is easy enough, just don't use much of whatever you're using. My wife looses a lot of stick pins as glue applicators. Dipping in future is a neat trick and makes a lot of difference, good luck

Seimper Fi "65"

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, September 20, 2003 5:07 AM

Testors Clear Parts Cement and Window maker is the best product that I have used for attaching clear parts. It has almost the holding power of CA, won't fog, dries clear and can be sanded. Allow 24 hours for the cement to set for best results. Great stuff. Rich

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dubix88

Member since
March 2003
From: Maine,USA

Posted by dubix88 on Saturday, September 20, 2003 8:36 AM

HEY, I read about some elmers glue that was already colored. It comes in black, blue, and a couple of other colors. The black works good for canopies.

Randy

THATS MY VOTE "If a woman has to choose between catching a fly ball and saving infant's life, she will choose to save the infant's life without even considering if there is a man on base." -Dave Barry In the words of the great Larry the Cable Guy, "GIT-R-DONE!!!"

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checkmateking02

Member since
September 2003
From: AandF in the Badger State

Posted by checkmateking02 on Saturday, September 20, 2003 1:59 PM

Drew, in answer to your question, I use water (from the tap), with a few drops of dish detergent, to thin Sobo. It's kind of an art form, to get it right--if it's too thin it doesn't do much filling. Then I use a small paint brush to apply it to the seam. Let it dry till it goes clear, wipe with the Qtip to remove the overage; then reapply as necessary. I also do this to fill wing roots, so's I don't have to fill and sand. The appearance is acceptable--at least to me.

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Lufbery

Member since
December 2002
From: Harrisburg, PA

Posted by Lufbery on Sunday, September 21, 2003 9:54 PM

Thanks for the tip on Sobo glue. :D

Regards,

-Drew

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 22, 2003 5:38 PM

I have used Future to attach canopies on 1/72 kits. As long as the gaps between the canopy and the fuselage are minimal it works great. Use it similar to Tenax - apply it with a small brush and let it wick in between the parts. Let it dry for a day or two if possible for best results.

Don't expect Future to fill gaps like white glue will - it simply isn't that thick.

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qmiester

Member since
May 2003
From: Central USA

Posted by qmiester on Tuesday, October 7, 2003 7:45 PM

I have on occasion (late at night, after all the stores in town are closed, just after I've discovered we're out of Elmers) used Krystal Clear - somewhat expensive I admit, but does eliminate the frustration factor and it works.

Quincy

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Daywalker

Member since
September 2003
From: South Central Wisconsin

Posted by Daywalker on Wednesday, November 19, 2003 6:02 PM

I've had problems getting white glue to stick to the claer parts. It sticks just fine the the regular styrene, but not the clear canopy. Any suggestions?

Frank

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usmcsm

Member since
September 2003
From: Yuma

Posted by usmcsm on Thursday, November 20, 2003 6:04 PM

I use white glue and have had no problems. I apply with a toothpick and then let it set up over night. Next day I clean it up and it's all good.

"Livin' and dyin' in 3/4 time..."

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Lufbery

Member since
December 2002
From: Harrisburg, PA

Posted by Lufbery on Friday, November 21, 2003 9:10 AM

Since I started this topic, I thought I'd follow up on it and let everyone know how it went for me.

White glue worked just fine. The canopy for my kit didn't fit all that well, so I applied the white glue with a toothpick and wiped off the excess with a q-tip dipped in warm water. I let the first application dry, and then did another, final, application. A quick touch-up of paint, and things look great.

Regards,

-Drew

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

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usmcsm

Member since
September 2003
From: Yuma

Posted by usmcsm on Monday, November 24, 2003 8:47 PM

Raoul,
Glad to hear you quest ended successfully. I also use white glue to fill minor gaps. Add a little water, a drop of dish soap, and apply. Next day clean it up with warm water and a q-tip or paper towel. Once it dries the paint will seal it and it looks good.

PS: In your next life remember to fasten your seatbelt so you won't fall out of your Neiuport. That pickett fence must have hurt! Not to mention the sudden stop...

"Livin' and dyin' in 3/4 time..."

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Lufbery

Member since
December 2002
From: Harrisburg, PA

Posted by Lufbery on Monday, November 24, 2003 10:13 PM

QUOTE: Originally posted by usmcsm

Raoul,
Glad to hear you quest ended successfully. I also use white glue to fill minor gaps. Add a little water, a drop of dish soap, and apply. Next day clean it up with warm water and a q-tip or paper towel. Once it dries the paint will seal it and it looks good.

Yup! A little paint on the seam and everything really turned out well.

QUOTE:
PS: In your next life remember to fasten your seatbelt so you won't fall out of your Neiuport. That pickett fence must have hurt! Not to mention the sudden stop...

I didn't fall out, I jumped. The plane was on fire and it seemed like a good idea at the time. Wink [;)]

Regards,

-Drew

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

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usmcsm

Member since
September 2003
From: Yuma

Posted by usmcsm on Tuesday, November 25, 2003 6:58 AM

Ah yes,
Just read the article in Aviation History Jan. issue. This guy says it now appears he was thrown and did not jump. Only Lufbery knows for sure...

"Livin' and dyin' in 3/4 time..."

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Lufbery

Member since
December 2002
From: Harrisburg, PA

Posted by Lufbery on Tuesday, November 25, 2003 8:23 AM

I'll have to pick up that issue. Thanks for the heads up.

Regards,

-Drew

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

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