filling in those pesky seams w/o loosing detail!

Heres a few opptions, hope it helps ya out: I've been there before..!!!!
1. Use evergreen plastic stock. (The stock very in size,shape and style ). Check w/ your local hobby shop.
2. Tenex 7R. (This is a glue that basically welds the plastic together.) Got me out of a few jams PHEW...
3 Squadron putty ( White Filler). I have heard that their green filler is not as strong

My favourite method is using epoxy filler Milliput, which can be worked to a very smooth finish with water, and therefore not requiring any sanding;

Also very useful is Tamiya putty used in conjunction with Nail Polish Remover. Put the putty on whereever you need it, let dry a day or so, then using Q-tips or a solf piece of cloth dipped in the NPR, remove the excess putty. Change Q-tips very often so that you are not putting putty back on! Apparently, this method works with Squadron white...

dj, a couple of things:
1. I can't find 'milliput' in my hobby shop, but I do have Tamiya epoxy putty at home (has two strips of different material that you mash together and work into the shape you want.) Is this the 'putty' you are referring to in the second part of your note above? Is there something else availabe?
2. I use the Squadron white with NPR all the time. It works quite well, but as you stated, the important part is to change your q-tip often. This method is really nice when working in areas that have lots of raised detail because essentially you can remove the putty without damaging the detail. I'd suggest doing a 'test' with the NPR that is used because I think some of this stuff can actually damage plastic.

M.

Squadron putty and NPR (acetone) will damage the model.

The trick is to work quickly and with a soft touch. When done, leave the model alone for a day. When you come back the plastic will no longer be soft.
Also, beware of clear plastic, this stuff with craze it like crazy.

milliput is special in that it is water soluable. I find it a bit of a paint.

Try putting a thin bead of squadron, then using a small chisel scrap it off. Should save you from much sanding.

Here is my trick. If I have to use filler I put masking tape as close to the gap as possible. I then apply the filler and when dry I sand the area, with the masking tape still installed. When the sanding job starts to feather out the masking tape I remove it and all that is left is a very thin raised bead of putty. It is then easy to use a seam scrapper to get as flush as possible. Then I wet sand to smooth it out. You loose very little detail this way.

to Mkish:

Milliput is a two part epoxy putty readily available here in Europe. It is available in the US, but is quite expensive. Someone, somewhere on those forums mentionned a new US equivalent product, but I can't remember where... The Tamiya putty I'm talking about is the 'normal' plastic model filler. I suppose it's made with acetone, since it is soluble in this medium, and it does attack the plastic. The Nail polish remover I'm using does not seem to attack the plastic though. Milliput is water based, and therefore will not attack the plastic AND will not create a strong jojnt the way liquid glue or normal putty would.

Probably the best example of this that I had was the Monogram (former Revell) 1/48 P-40E that came out a few years back. There was a pretty nasty gap between the wing and the fuselage fairing. I wanted to make sure that I had the correct dihedral. So rather than try to fill the gap with putty or glue, I chose to add plastic stock. I determined the thickness I needed with my calipers to bring the wings in line with where they should be, and bought the appropriate plastic stock strips. After glueing the strips in place on the wing, I sanded it to match the curviture of the wing. I test fit to make sure I had it right, and then glued it in place.
Dave