Red Storm on the Reich GB - Sept. 8, 2008 - May 9, 2009

Wait, so you're saying you put dry transfers over the casting numbers and they sat down? Wow. I wouldn't have thought you could do that.

Looking forward to that Ausf. A, btw.

bufflehead wrote:

......bob - you still hanging around this GB??  I figured Scott would check it out, but that's about it!  Nice to hear from you!  BTW, whatcha been working on?  I've got another Soviet armor itch that needs scratching!!  Not now though...next year, next year!

Yeah...still hanging around admiring the quality work that has been posted.

The King Tiger for this GB is sitting in the stash, chasis completed w/paint, a few sections of track assembled and gathering dust!  I also have three cheap....err...inexpensive Rev-o-gram planes at a 80-90% stage of completition for 'expired' GB's & an old AMTech P-40E at a 70% stage for the current Pacific War GB.  Still devoting most of my time to "Job Search 2009".

Hopefully somebody will start a GB (next year) that will let you take care of that "itch"  I have a T-34/85 that I would like to tackle soon.....after taking care of some of the incompletes taking up space.....

Scott-Congrats on the first place.  Please do post a pic here.

bufflehead wrote:

Scott, put me down for either a Tamiya or DML JS-II!  I'll know which one as soon as I'm done with my trip.  I'm so glad the start date is Sept. 8, it will give me time to finish all the unfinished GB kits I have sitting on the shelf!

wow......I can't believe I posted this 15 months ago!!!!   

I really need to build faster!

Hey, thanks for the nice words guys!  I was wondering if anyone still peeked into this thread...it was on page 3!!

dupes - uh, to be honest dude I'm not sure HOW I managed to get those casting numbers to stand out!  The markings aren't decals otherwise it wouldn't have been a mystery (Solvaset is our hero!)  Instead I used Archer transfers and after applying them those raised numbers were totally lost even though I carefully and gently burnished the transfer down around the raised numbers.  You couldn't even tell they were there.  They literally popped out all of a sudden during the very very end of the weathering, just hours before I snapped the photos....???  As I look closely now it seems that the burnishing, washes, and highlighting paid off!!

BTW, (dare I say it?) I'm very close to starting the Coree Pz IV A ......just one more little build for the Norway GB and 1000 Roadwheels will consume the remainder of the year.

bob - you still hanging around this GB??  I figured Scott would check it out, but that's about it!  Nice to hear from you!  BTW, whatcha been working on?  I've got another Soviet armor itch that needs scratching!!  Not now though...next year, next year!

Scott - Glad you like the JS-2!  I really thought you were going to finish before me, but looks like you're still plugging away!  Can't wait to see yours....perhaps another 1st place build in the works???

espins1 wrote:

Ernest, your JS-2 looks killer!  Very well done my friend.  I hope mine turns out as good as yours!  The Reno High Rollers contest was a lot of fun this year!  My Char B1 bis took 1st place in the 1/35 armor category.

First Place!?!?  Wow, that's awesome Scott!!  Fantastic job!  Did you post that somewhere?  I remember you working on the Char B1, but don't recall seeing the finished product.  It must be sweeeeet since you earned 1st!!

Ernest, your JS-2 looks killer!  Very well done my friend.  I hope mine turns out as good as yours! 

The Reno High Rollers contest was a lot of fun this year!  My Char B1 bis took 1st place in the 1/35 armor category.   

Dang Ernest - your Stalin looks AWESOME!

Really like this build...now how did you get the markings on the back of the turret to sit down over the casting numbers?  

DARN!!  I completely forgot about the High Rollers Reno contest  Well, now that I think about it I had to work that Saturday anyway   How was it Scott?

BTW, I finally finished the JS-2 for this GB....and only 4 months late!!

Here it is guys, rolling into Berlin much too late to see any action! Let me know whatchya think.

This is the Tamiya kit in 1/35 scale.  Added these improvements: a Karaya copper tow cable and ends, MG replaced with a section of SS tube cut from a glue applicator, assorted casting numbers made from sprue numbers, and a scratchbuilt headlight lens.  

It's Saturday, September 12th 2009. You know I'll be there 

Desert Heights Elementary School
13948 Mt. Bismark
Reno (Stead), NV

Free to all non-entrants
$5 for the first model entered
$1 for each additional model

SMJ, Scott, thanks again for your assistance and tips!  Unfortunately I haven't been able to do any washes on the JS-2 yet due to getting home late from work all week.  Hopefully tomorrow I'll have some time.

High Rollers Reno contest???  Hmmmm....Reno is only a few hours drive from SF, maybe I'll have to take a trip and check it out!  What are the dates in Sept?

SMJmodeler wrote:

espins1 wrote: ...put about a BB sized blob of oils. That keeps it light enough so that you can gradually build up the effect. ...yep!  BTW Scott, you going to the High Rollers Reno contest in September?  That was a staple on my contest circuit, until I moved to NY from California.  Shoot me a PM!

Sweet!  Maybe I'll have a shot at 1st this year? 

espins1 wrote:

...put about a BB sized blob of oils. That keeps it light enough so that you can gradually build up the effect.

...yep! 

BTW Scott, you going to the High Rollers Reno contest in September?  That was a staple on my contest circuit, until I moved to NY from California.  Shoot me a PM!

bufflehead wrote:

Gotcha SMJ!  Say, how thick/thin do you mix your washes?

VERY thin.  It's better to add multiple washes and build up the effect.  Here's a photo to help you out with the ratios:  Fill the tray almost full of mineral spirits.  You could use a little less paint than I'm showing...

espins1 wrote:

I think what SMJ means is to do 2 to 3 washes of each color.  Use Burnt Umber for the last wash.  When it's almost dry, you can mess with it with your brush to add streaking and other variations in the deposited pigments from the oils. No need to gloss coat, unless you want to for the effect.  I prefer to do my washes over flat paint, which helps to get better coverage if you want the tank to look a bit dirtier.

bufflehead: What Scott says is exactly what I mean, and no gloss coat as he said too.  As far as the white, I use it in some sun bleached areas and some sloped surfaces too.  There's no real rule to go by but I WOULDN'T use it in all the same areas as the green.  Experiment a bit and see what you think.  I reccomend using it sparingly though...a little goes a long way.  I expect you'll be pleasantly surprised by the results...good luck!

Ahhh, gotcha Scott!!  I was going brain dead there for a sec!!  Makes sense to do totally separate washes!

I usually do my pin washes on flat coat too, but there are some advocates of glossing first.  I actually did that with the 251 and it really helped to keep the washes were I wanted them and cleaning up any bloom afterwards.  I was thinking of doing the same with the JS-2 but it being so dark maybe the gloss coat isn't necessary.

I think what SMJ means is to do 2 to 3 washes of each color.  Use Burnt Umber for the last wash.  When it's almost dry, you can mess with it with your brush to add streaking and other variations in the deposited pigments from the oils.

No need to gloss coat, unless you want to for the effect.  I prefer to do my washes over flat paint, which helps to get better coverage if you want the tank to look a bit dirtier.

SMJ, thanks for the great tips!  I think this will give me exactly the look I'm aiming for!  I do need some clarification though:

"Alternate raw and burnt umber...2-3 each, ending with the burnt umber"  I'm not sure what you mean by this..2-3 drops each?

"Do the same white the white but DO steak it when its near dry."  Do you mean put the green and white dots in roughly the same areas?  Or does the white go somewhere else?

Lastly, do you put a gloss coat on before doing the pin washes?

Again, thanks for the great tips!  I'll try them out tonight or tomorrow!

bufflehead: Nice hand painting!  That was a good way to go...very realistic.  I like the drip near the weld seam.  

You questioned the oil washes.  I have had success with a build up of washes (you asked about my weathering techniques on the 251, remember?).  Raw and Burnt Umber REALLY add a lot of depth and interest to the finish and I recommend going that route.  They should be applied BEFORE the pin washes and should be a thin mixture.  Experiment a bit, and don't worry if the coat is not evenly applied.  Push the wash pools into areas prone to less wear...and when it's close to dry grab a 1/4" flat brush, moisten it slighty, and add some streaks with a downward stroke, especially below grab bars, weld seams etc.

Alternate raw and burnt umber...2-3 each, ending with the burnt umber, it looks great on a green background!  If you have green oil paint and white (if you dare) add those too.  The green will be applied with a tiny brush on the areas prone to sun exposure, specifically the horizontal surfaces and the top leading edge of sloped surfaces.  Just add tiny dots like the dot technique...the difference is these are dlitued mixes, same as the other washes.  Don't spread them too much just dab and let it dry.  Do the same white the white but DO steak it when its near dry.  Don't panic if the green and white seem BOLD at first, they tone down a lot during drying.

After all the washes are done, I suspect the stark white of your markings will be WAY muted, probably too much to your liking.  To bring back the nice white, moisten a q-tip and rub off the washes..but be selective on where and how much you remove...too much removed will look strange.

Give it a try, let me know how it goes!

BTW: Is this the Tamiya kit?  I've always liked this tank.

Here's an update on the JS-2.  The filters are done.  Markings applied and tools painted (there's only two! )  Some photos to show you the progress:

Before filters. 

After application of Mig Productions "Brown for Dark Green" using a brush followed by Humbrol Matt Midstone sprayed with an AB.  Darker and grungier looking!  YEAH!

Marked off the ID bands using Tamiya 6mm masking tape and outlining with a white charcoal pencil.  I messed up a few times but the charcoal wipes right off with a wet bush!

Applied the Archer dry transfers and then hand painted the bands with Vallejo Model Color White.  I painted it in thin coats which took several applications for complete coverage.

Hoo boy them are some pretty white bands!!  I toned them down with some XF-13 J.A. Green (basecoat) very heavily thinned and sprayed lightly.

Also the tracks have been basecoated in XF-1 Flat Black.  Tomorrow are the pin washes and maybe some other type of oil wash.  Oil dots??