Tamiya StuG III Ausf B 1/35 - Now onto the base! (14/05/11)

a start enjoy the build and it will be a good one.

Ron

A Stug III B?  Hey, is there an echo in here

I was looking forward to the last one so I guess that means I'll be watching this one take shape.

wing_nut

A Stug III B?  Hey, is there an echo in here

I was looking forward to the last one so I guess that means I'll be watching this one take shape.

Cheers Wingy - I promise this one will actually make it to the finish line!

Just a quick update:

I had planned to get the casemate all assembled with hatches on but shortly after getting the gun assembled family came over so it will have to wait until next weekend. I've got next weekend to myself so I plan to get the basic assembly complete and make a start on the dreaded Friuls!

Anyway, the gun is assembled and looks good so that's a start!

I actually did something a bit 'inventive' and lopped off the top of the Tamiya single Periscope which which is going to be the only thing poking out of a hatch (hence the reason I am not bothering with any interior detailing - more time to expend on the exterior). I replaced the top of it with a clear plastic periscope from my spares tub which was left over from my old Dragon Brummbar I think. It has the face pre-drilled with a rounded lens unlike the Tamiya one which has a flat face and at best would need drilling out.

Sorry I haven't got more to show you but weekends aside we have two Holiday weekends coming up (Easter and another one) so that's four additional days off work and four days extra build time!

Here's where I am so far - the spare wheels are not yet fixed in place btw:

Improved Periscope: 

Thanks for looking guys,

WIP update next weekend

ATVB

Ben  

Hey guys,

I hope you are all enjoying your weekend!

This WIP update is the work that I did yesterday afternoon - I'll post a further update later when I'm finished today. I've got the work laptop and am working from home until 2pm on the emergency phone so won't be starting on the build today until later.

Yesterday was basically a 'get the basic build ready for paint' day! I was 75% there but needed to assemble and fit the casemate, the antennae holder, various lights and siren and some wiring detail. This all got primed and left overnight ready for the basecoat to be air brushed on today.

Here she is so far:

I used some lead wire to show some wiring going to the siren, light and front headlight. I drilled a small hole at the rear of the base of each headlight to push the wire into.  I've just noticed that wonky light so I'll have to sort that:

The replacement Dragon Periscope - the Tamiya kit version just had a flat face and no lens detail: 

Spare wheel mounts: 

Side view - I've put Blu-Tack on the wheel inserts to ensure there is a clean, paint free contact area for when I glue the road wheels on: 

So far she's looking quite tidy and definately an improvement on my first attempt (the one the dog chewed up) so fingers x'd she'll come good.

The plan for the rest of today is to simply get the basecoat on and make a start on the Friuls.

I hope you like her - thanks for looking chaps

ATVB

Ben   

Good afternoon folks,

I'm making steady progress now. The basecoat is down and in the flesh it looks superb (The photos don't quite look as good - the grey looks a bit too bright in the photos).

I'm going for a faded finish and heavily weathered so I decided I'd have a mess about with my greys and see what I could do.

I used about 6 parts German Grey (XF-63), 3 parts Dark Sea Grey (XF-54) and 1 part Flat White - this colour should work really well with the washes and when it darkens after weathering it should look very nice. I'm very pleased with the Dark Sea Grey - I didn't even know I had it until today!

I'm going to sit down with my dinner and a DVD soon so this is where I'll be leaving things - with the Easter weekend upon us and 4 days to play with by this time next week I'd at least like to have the decals on, the tools painted and the Friuls assembled ready for some serious weathering.

As for markings I'm either going for the 192nd StuGAbt (Poland, '41) or the 191st StuGAbt (Greece '41). The first option is the often seen 'Skull & Bones' which although it looks cool it has been done to death so I'm undecided as yet.

Thanks for looking guys!

I feel a lot better now the basecoat is on. This is the EXACT point that I got to last time when my last StuG III B was chomped by the dog so this is staying safely out of reach!

I'm happier with the colour too - looking back I can now see that the last one was too blue and an overspray would probably have been needed. I'm very happy with this one. I've got all my tools from last time; they are painted but now I have some Metallizer paints for tool heads and Vallejo Wood colours for handles I'm going to tart them up a bit. The pre-moulded tow cable is not being used - I'm going to have a run of cable laid straight down the fender with the tools. The pre-moulded cable looks too neat and tidy imo!

Have a good week everyone!

Many thanks,

Ben

Lookin' good Ben.  Is the little doogy staring at it licking his chops?

nice work enjoyed the pics

Ron

I wonder how a Stug would taste compared to a Tiger?

Looking great buddy!  I should have wired the lights on my StuG B... was still new at the hobby.  You have gone further more than I have and it is looking real good.  Did you do pre-shading or are you planning to do post-shading this time?

Later

You're moving right along with this one Ben, making up for lost time for sure. Also neat to see you adding more details like the headlight wiring, it's a step up in your building efforts in terms of attention to detail.

constructor

I wonder how a Stug would taste compared to a Tiger?

Tastes like chicken.

Cheers Ben for having the drive to start over again. Good luck, it looks like you're making good progress.

deafpanzer

Looking great buddy!  I should have wired the lights on my StuG B... was still new at the hobby.  You have gone further more than I have and it is looking real good.  Did you do pre-shading or are you planning to do post-shading this time?

Later

Thanks for all the replies guys

Sorry I didn't reply yesterday but I've got a throat infection and feel super terrible so this is the first time I've been back on the site since Sunday!

Andy: Funnily enough I tried a pre shade with my first attempt at the basecoat and it worked well but the basecoat was waaaay too light so I had to add a dash more XF-63 to darken it up and obviously obliterated the pre-shade in the re application as per usual - I'll get there eventually  I sent you a pm re post shading/fading?

My question was as I'm building a StuG I have lot's of big grey square panels and would like to highlight the centres of the panels? How do I do this - I assume with an AB? How is the paint best prepared and applied? I can see it now - a big slodge of colour in the middle of the panel! I can see the theory behind this method but how do I apply the fading? If anyone can give me any guidance re this method I'll be very greatful as I'd love to give it a try!

The photos are a fairly good representation of the shade I settled on but the photo lighting made the paintwork appear a bit brighter than it actually is so bear that in mind.

I could have been lazy and just loaded the cup up with Panzer Grey and be done with it but I want to experiment and see what I can do. If it all fails a dark Paynes Grey wash will sort it

Last night I found the recent copy of a particularly expensive magazine (I don't want to name it and get into trouble) and there was an article where a chap built a large scale 38(t) and his basecoat was very similar to mine. He used Paynes grey and a stack of different washes & pigments to obtain a great effect so I'm going to be roughly sticking to his build & weathering method now.

I had a look through my stocks and found a full bottle of 'Pro Modeller Black Wash' that you put on with a sponge or kitchen paper towel and then remove any excess with another paper towel (damp or dry). I tried it on the underside where there is some rivet, panel line detail and large flat areas and it worked AMAZINGLY! It really popped the lines and rivet detail and turned the lighter colour basecoat to something far more realistic and it actually had a more 'natural' appearance to it.

The 'Pro Modeller' is a British chap who pops up at a lot of shows and has a lot of helpful stuff on You Tube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2jNCRo_VyM

Sorry if you guys Stateside have this stuff but it really impressed me when I tried it last night.

ATVB & take care,

Ben

I build this Stug about a year ago and I really like your basecoat, mine got a lot darker after weathering. Wiring the headlight is a very nice touch along with the new periscope.

Are you planning on any stowage on the engine deck? I was looking at this last night thinking it is such an open space, it needs something on it. But if you weather it nicely, you might not want to cover it up.

I did this center panel shading on my last tank. I added a few drops of Buff to the basecoat and just carefully sprayed it, starting in the center and working out. I had the airbrush needle barely open and used about 10 psi.

Keep up the good work and buy a bone for that puppy. Our new puppy chewed up a couple fuel cans on my last build, so I know who you feel.

I agree with iraqiwildman.  If pre-shading method didn't come out good, then you can always go for post-shading option by just adding just very little buff or tan to Grey Panzer whatever you were using.  It worked on my Panzer I especially around the open space area.

Looking forward to your next update...

post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it

post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it

post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it

post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it

Bit of a subliminal response here, Ben....

post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it

post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it

post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it

post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it

the doog

post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it

Bit of a subliminal response here, Ben....

post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it post shade it

I think I got the message Karl

Righto, I want to post shade it but obviously having never done this before I'm a bit apprehensive about doing it and screwing my build up.

Perhaps someone can provide a little step-by-step guide so I know I'm doing things right. I haven't got big enough boys bits to go and try this out and hope for the best at the minute, especially after recent disasters but I really want to learn and give this a go.

Perhaps a simple bullet point instruction list?

Please, indulge me! Show me the true meaning of the force!

Cheers guys!

Ben

Good afternoon (or morning) folks,

Seeing as it's the Easter weekend and the weather is stunningly hot for April in England it would be very rude of me not to carry on with work on my StuG!

It's been looking at me from behind the glass in my cabinet all week and I've been trying to convince myself that the basecoat was fine but all along I really knew that it wasn't right and I wasn't 100% happy with it so..........I added a chunk of XF-63 German Grey to my original basecoat colour and decided to re-paint her.

Nothing special, just a few shades darker really. I really, REALLY wanted to get this pre-shade thing to work and have tried so many times that I was DETERMINED to get it right today - and I think I have? For the first time in over a year of trying it's actually worked, properly!

So, I now have a far better and much more visually acceptable Panzer Grey coloured StuG and nice, visible pre-shade lines.

Due to my air brush not being top of the range the trigger has to worked with caution - a push a tad to far shoots too much air out and a couple of the black lines 'splodged' a bit. I didn't think that it would be an issue but these two splodgy lines showed up under the basecoat a little bit. Luckily they are not too bad at all and are in a place on the rear flat deck where I'm planning to have a tarp or Swastika air signal flag so they'll be covered anyway.

Let me know what you think guys - personally I'm soooo pleased that I've finally got this right! I know what psi setting to use now and exactly the type of spray needed - just next time remove any splodges straight away!

I'm leaving her to fully cure overnight and will carry on with decals etc. I'm off to start the Friuls now!

Pre-shade lines in place:

Looking much better now: 

Thanks for looking guys - I'd love to hear any comments and helpful suggestions on making this build one of my best!

WIP update later

ATVB

Ben  

Looking good I have this kit that I picked up at Hobby Lobby for about $12 I think, on clearance. I will be following your build to get some hints and tips

Yes, your pre-shading tunred out really good.  I like the lighter color basecoat, since it will darken during weathering. Are you going to try highlighting the center of the panels?

I would go with a big flag on the engine deck. I think the red and white on the flag would really look cool with all this gray. You can buy them, download one or paint your own on tissue.

Keep up the good work and keep it away from that puppy. Happy Easter.

Lovely!  I'm trying to learn new (to me) techniques after a 35 year absence from modeling.

Did you use an airbrush for your pre-shading?  Would it work with a thin wash applied with a brush?  If you used an airbrish, what mix of thinner to paint did you use?

Thanks in advance.

Looking very nice Ben........  the shading turned out well. Once you get to weathering it should blend without a problem.

Thanks for sharing the pics....  they are great!

MAJ Mike

Lovely!  I'm trying to learn new (to me) techniques after a 35 year absence from modeling.

Did you use an airbrush for your pre-shading?  Would it work with a thin wash applied with a brush?  If you used an airbrish, what mix of thinner to paint did you use?

Thanks in advance.

Hi guys,

Wildman: I'm not sure about the highliting now the pre-shade has worked. I want to try it out and get another technique in my armoury BUT I had a practice on a 1/48 scrappy old build earlier on and found that although I have a good airbrush, it's not the best and it's very difficult to maintain the sort of gentle and constant pressure needed for this method so I'll see how it goes - I don't want this StuG ruined too! I need a cheapy bargain bin kit to practice on first. Karl has given me a good idea of how to get started anyway (cheers Karl)

Mike: Thanks for the  buddy,

I used my airbrush for all of this work.

I used a simple flat black along panel lines and recesses/raised area and sharp angles and corners - the black was applied by spraying a freehand line wherever I wanted one.

I then used Tamiya XF-63 German Grey mixed with about 10-20% flat white and this was applied in repeated light layers that gradually build up until you know that it's just right. Usually I go a few coats too far and end up all but totally hiding my pre shade work!

Today I stopped putting on the layers a bit earlier and it turned out perfectly. After weathering these lines should blend in nicely together with the basecoat

My paint was about 6 parts paint to 4 parts thinner - that's what I normally use in my airbrush.

I can't see how this method could work with a brush as it calls for smooth lines (ie no brush strokes) and gentle, built up layers over the top. You don't get this sort of control with a brush ie building up thin layers but I bet you could look at painting your next model in a straight basecoat and then apply a pin wash to highlight panel lines and use lighter shaded pigments of a suitable colour to highlight the panel centres, a bit like post shading?

Perhaps there is a much better way of doing this without an airbrush, I'm sure someone will let you know if there is.

ATVB

Ben

Sorry to ask such elementary questions, but each model build is an experiment for me,  Thanks for taking time to respond.  I look forward to watching this WIP and learning.

Happy Easter.

Ben, that is an absolutely perfect, beautifully-done shading job! A great start to the weathering process! Some good selective washes now to darken up your creases and lines, and some drybrushing in tan over the top of it all after the washes have dried, and you'll be loving this baby like a brand new flame!

I wouldn't say that it needs any more post-shading, really. You have a great contrast happening already. Not too dark, not unnoticeable--just about right!

Congrats on getting past your misgivings and questions and for having the courage to boldly go...it looks perfect.

That's very good pre-shading Ben, Looking forward to see it go from here!

the doog

Ben, that is an absolutely perfect, beautifully-done shading job! A great start to the weathering process! Some good selective washes now to darken up your creases and lines, and some drybrushing in tan over the top of it all after the washes have dried, and you'll be loving this baby like a brand new flame!

I wouldn't say that it needs any more post-shading, really. You have a great contrast happening already. Not too dark, not unnoticeable--just about right!

Congrats on getting past your misgivings and questions and for having the courage to boldly go...it looks perfect.

Blimey, thanks Karl!

It's turned out far better than I could ever have hoped so now I've got this method down I want to learn the post shading!

I'll get some decals on her tomorrow and take it from there. I'm thinking of a nice dusty wheeled build with some light stowage and possibly a Swastika aerial signal flag on the rear deck for contrast.

Update tomorrow!

ATVB

Ben

Good afternoon guys,

Just a quick update as I've been on DIY duty helping the parents with their loft extension

All I had planned for today was to get the decals done as I'm out tonight and I knew I had an hour free this afternoon. Tomorrow I'll carry on properly plus we have the holiday Monday off so I'll hopefully get a chance to get these Friuls done (yawn)!

I did decide on the Skull & Bones markings but the red skull which puts my StuG into the 2nd Kompanie, 192nd StuGAbt (Assault Gun Batallion), Poland, June, 1941. The red skull gives a nice contrast against the grey background and will liven up my cabinet of white and black decaled armour!

All I can say is I have never had so much trouble with decals in my entire modelling life! It's seriously a very good job I had the spare set from the 'chewed' StuG as most of them were needed along with the new ones!

I had a nice glossy base for where my decals would be sitting, MicroSol & a paintbrush so I was well kitted out for a short decaling session but they were tearing so easily? Not all of them but some caused me some major hassle. I enjoy decals but these were a nightmare! Without that second set I'd have been in trouble!

There are a total of 17 decals on this StuG and all are on there now. The last one was the small red oval one at the front and I managed to get that sitting slightly wonky so some dusty muck might be needed to 'tidy' that up! That one has silvered too

Anyway, they are all on now and looking nice. I've never been to Poland nor do I intend to go but I'm wondering what the weather is like there in June? I'd have thought pretty warm like it is here (or used to be at least). I'm undecided on weathering. I'm thinking of a dry, dusty StuG with some light chipping - no mud caked everywhere! The postman dropped my newly ordered MIG Panzer Fading Grey Pigment through the door this morning and I'm itching to give it a try. Andy Deafpanzer certainly liked it when he tried it out on his grey StuG - the effect was most impressive.

Todays work:

WIP update tomorrow!

I'd love to hear any feedback or comments

ATVB

Ben  

Sorry to hear about the struggles with the decals Ben but looks like you've got them all sorted out now (silvering aside of course). Pre-shading looks good as well as a solid base for the weathering to come.

Cheers Bill,

The decals were a serious PITA but now everything has fully cured and settled down they don't look too bad - the only one that isn't looking good is the red one on the front sloping armour between the headlights. It's slightly skewed and had silvered badly so unless I can take the edge off the silvering with the weathering process I might see if I can soften it up with MicroSol and either replace (I have a spare) it or just lose it all together. I've just not experienced any decals tear like some of these were, they were soooo fragile?

Anyway, todays update:

I applied a layer of SIN Filter Blue for Panzer Grey last night and another one this morning which worked well in starting to blend together the visible pre-shade and basecoat

I tried a some of my Pro-Modeller Black Wash to pick out some panel lines - just brush it on (it's like black water) and shortly after wipe it off with a cloth. The idea being the panel lines are just left picked out and darkened and no residue of the black wash is left on the build. It was a bottle that I picked up at a show last year and this was the first time I've tried it but I wasn't impressed with the result I obtained so I' going to pick out the panel lines with a good old pin wash instead! He get's great results at shows when he does it which he did for me so I'm sure it does work & I probably didn't do it properly!

Righto, onto the tools; I used the tools left from the original StuG as they weren't fitted but were painted. I went over them again and painted all of the handles in Vallejo Old Wood which is a superb colour for tools imo. I left them as they were but tried some Tamiya Clear Orange on the barrel cleaning rods - I'm not sure if I like it so I might change that again. I also had a great Sledgehammer from my Marder III kit (along with some other great tools that won't be used on that build) so I'm using that as I'm sure a tank crew would need a good hammer for changing tracks and starting engines

On the right fender there is the jack block, the tool box above it, two 'S' hooks, cutters and the jack itself. Most of these were painted nicely from before so I didn't touch them but a couple of weeks ago I had my order from MDC Models in the UK and I'd ordered some Gunze Mr Metal Acrylic buffable paints for my Marder - Dark Iron, Stainless & Brass. I wasn't sure how effective the buffing would be but WOW! I was amazed! I used Dark Iron on the tool box, the sledgehammer head and the crowbar and they buffed up perfectly. I know Bill likes his MM buffable paints and I can see why now The Periscope body and lens has also been painted as have the rear lights.

So, Tomorrow: Painting the rims and tyres and return rollers and assembling the Friuls. Painting the Mufflers with 'rust' which I forgot to do today and trying a version of Blacken It called Track Black which a friend of mine here in the UK sells and looks very good. I'm going to use Friuls for my spare track links too. 

Next weekend is another four day weekend for us English lot as we have the Royal wedding on Friday which has been declared a 'Public' holiday by Queen Liz and then 'May Day' holiday Monday so I'll be hoping to get this one past the finish line by next Monday. I'm not sure about weathering yet. I know I want to try a little drybrushing which I think looks great on Panzer Grey but I don't know if I want to/should be hitting this build with normal washes. I'm thinking pin washes on lines and details like hinges, dry brushing, some mild chipping, flat coat and pigments? Ideas anyone?

Todays work:

Thanks for looking folks,

WIP update tomorrow!

ATVB

Ben