Best advice I have to give is that it's an "experience" thing. You have to just learn to use it by seeing what works for you. Some guys use toothpicks, and prefer different thicknesses. Some like to let it flow, some like it thicker. You just gotta work with it.

deafpanzer

There are two kinds of Gorilla glue out there... this one will turn into foam.

This is the CA type and it won't turn into foam...

I have been using Gorilla CA glue for couple of years but recently switched to Loctite CA glue... loving it now.  Better control especially it is available in gel type.

Hey Andy,

On my first ever build a couple of years ago (Tamiya Tiger 1/48) the tracks were having a bad day and I used Gorilla glue (brown). It expanded and blew up like I don't know what.

I too use the same sort of Loctite Gel as you now - brilliant stuff!

Ben

Kenny - that's the spirit! I have one more tip that I use myself, and not only for modelling, but whenever CA glue is used, and that's a lot. It's helpful to moisten the surfaces to be glued with lacquer (nitro) thinner. This not only degreases and cleans those surfaces, but also, from what I've seen, works on the CA glue as a mild accelerator. Please try this one and tell me how it works for you. Hope it helps, have a nice day

Paweł

I have been googling and found a couple sights here in England who stock this glue but they are out of stock.

What I have found is that there is more than one type of Gator Glue, one is for wood which expands hence the foaming; the one for PE is called Gator Grip and it is important that that is what you ask for.

I have now orderd some from the states so PE is on hold for a couple of weeks.

I intend to continue with the PE as this part of the build I wish to attempt, perhaps the only time.

I may not be skilled but I am damned Tenacious!!!...cheers ....Kenny

Lemme add a third vote for Gator Grip, I hardly use any CA anymore. Only reason I keep any around is gap-filling which GG isn't good for.

Gator Glue and Gorilla Glue are two totally different substances and behave completely different as well. Gator Glue is an acrylic binder-based glue as opposed to a cyano-acrylate based glue (hence the term "CA").

Phew!  Thanks for the clarification there, Andy.

There are two kinds of Gorilla glue out there... this one will turn into foam.

This is the CA type and it won't turn into foam...

I have been using Gorilla CA glue for couple of years but recently switched to Loctite CA glue... loving it now.  Better control especially it is available in gel type.

What exactly do you mean by 'foaming'?  I use "gorilla" glue and have been using it for a while even on Griffon Model PE and have never had a problem. I suppose altitude, heat and humidity affect the properties of the glue??

wbill76

Kenny,

Never had any issue with Gator glue foaming up...sure we are talking about the same product?

Standard Gorilla glue will foam

Kenny,

Never had any issue with Gator glue foaming up...sure we are talking about the same product?

My thanks to every one for your help.

I do scrape the contact area's before gluing, I have now tried "Rocket Max" gel but still having trouble.

Regards "Gater" glue, found some on Ebay; the seller mentions foaming up is this so?.

I'm using Griffon Model PE.

I have used PE with ordinery super glue in the past with no trouble, I just don't know why I am having difficultys now...cheers....Kenny.

PS, You are a great bunch of blokes on this site!.

You might also try a quick vinegar wash of the PE to clean it off.  As for glue, I like Gorilla brand CA as it has a flexible componet and sets off instantly with zip kicker.  I keep my tool box in my car and it gets very cold here most of the year so Gator glue is out for me.  Once the stuff freezes it's shot.

                                                                                                     Pat.

I stock up with cheap Super Glues (thin and gel) from the Dollar Tree. I have used high dollar CA glue and I can see no difference in the bond.

One suggestion is to scrape the surface of the PE at the points where it will be attached, to remove any film, chemicals, oils, or coating. Some PE has a top layer that won't bond well. I know some Eduard PE has that top layer coating, but it comes right off like fine soot with a scrape or 2 with the back of a #11 blade.

Another suggestion: if the initial bond doesn't work and I have to try again, I scrape off the CA glue from the spots of the unsuccessful bond (again with the back of a #11 blade). CA doesn't seem to want to bond to it's dried self...

wbill76

Kenny,

What make/brand of PE are you using out of curiosity?

I normally will use CA gel as it allows for a little more flexibility, you might give that a shot. I use Loctite brand availble at most stores in the US, not sure if that same brand is available to you there in the UK.

You might also look into Gator's Grip Glue, fantastic stuff and much more versatile vs. CA for working with PE. http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder.html

Hey Bish,

Like Bill I always use CA 'gel' instead of the watery stuff. You can put a tiny little blob down and it stays put with no risk of runs and damage and it ALWAYS sticks my PE.

I use Loctite Ultra Gel. Tesco's have a great selection of CA and are VERY cheap too.

Here ya go! http://www.viking-direct.co.uk/catalog/catalogSku.do;jsessionid=0000zuzw8wu6QNd0ews9L0BbFjs:130mjq8ku?pr=Q28&id=12779

It's a lot cheaper at Tesco's and lasts an age - WH Smiths keep it too.

Hope this helps,

Ben

If you're talking about a lot of PE to PE connections like shurzen or a PE conversion for a half-track you could always solder them together.

I have to second Bill's advice. I tend to use a gel if I use CA but much perfer to use Gator Glue. Cleans up well, allows positioning but holds well.

Rounds Complete!!

spacepacker

I'm trying my first serious attempt with PE and I find difficulty in sticking the parts together with super glue.!

The parts are clean and I have used super glue for the odd piece here and there with no trouble before, now I'm having lot's of trouble even with different brands of glue.

Need all the help I can get...cheers....Kenny

In my experience with CA, it is better to use very little and do not move the joined parts for a while. Be sure that the parts to be cemented are in the right place already. If you try to adjust it while the CA is curing, the cement might not harden properly. Unlike Styrene cement which melts the plastic, the surfaces to be joined are not affected by CA. It is an entirely kind of bonding process and moving it parts will not help any

Kenny,

What make/brand of PE are you using out of curiosity?

I normally will use CA gel as it allows for a little more flexibility, you might give that a shot. I use Loctite brand availble at most stores in the US, not sure if that same brand is available to you there in the UK.

You might also look into Gator's Grip Glue, fantastic stuff and much more versatile vs. CA for working with PE. http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder.html

You could try a couple of things,

First, different viscosity Super Glues for a different drying rate

Second, Super Glue accelerator (like zip kicker)

Andrew