Just what you need...one more kit! DML Tiger II In-Stock at...!

Sorry Larry, I'm holding out for the Henschel turret version, so I do not know the condition of the tracks. Bill stated that they have the injector pin marks as "outies". Still, depending on what aftermarket tracks (Fruil, Modelkasten) to name a few, you're looking at some big dollar for upgrades. Tamiya's come with vinyls. Too bad they didn't include their indy tracks like they did on their Tiger I kits. Just my 2-cents.

I brought my KT back with me when I went home for lunch. (Shhhh!) And I've been checking a few things out. The big, blocky thing on the turret Brian and MadModeler were talking about is really strange. It looks like it's so other versions of the kit would not have a pistol port in it. I thought all the Porsche turret KTs were identical. Shows what I know. It is strange they would make it so big. I'd guess it's about 3/8 to 1/2 inch square! My first thought was that filling and smoothing that puppy in would be a real bear. Then I realized, it will have zimm over it anyway, so doesn't make much difference. Still, it is awful big, considering the apparent purpose!

Larry, I've been taking a look at the tracks, too. They are made up of a two piece affair. Part 1 has two of the "raised" portions of the track with the lower part molded between the two. Part 2 is just the lower part and fits between two part 1 pieces. I'm sure they have a reason for molding the tracks this way, I'm just not sure what it is. Seems like it would be easier to make the pieces all the same with one raised portion and one lower portion on the same part. But again, what do I know.

Their are two ejector pin marks on the backs of the #1 parts. Many are the outties I'd noticed before, but some are innies. The #2 parts have no ejector pin marks at all. Oh, in looking closer at these things, it now becomes apparent what's going on with the #1 #2 bit. #2 parts don't have any guide horns on the backs. So you wind up with a raised part, lower part with horns, raised part, lower part without horns, etc. However, this is the way the tracks are for the Elefant, too, and the Jaguar links I bought has two different parts, one with a raised part and a lower part with horns, and one a raised part with a lower part without horns. I guess it's sixes which way to do it. It was easy to glue two of the same part next to each other with the Jaguar tracks. You can't do that with the DML ones. If they were going to leave ejector pin marks on one of them, though, I wish it would have been the #2 parts. They are totally flat on the back. The #1 parts have half the ejector pin marks between the horns.

There are also some ejector pin marks on the back of some of the road wheels. They should be covered when the two wheels are glued together, though.

Eric,

Yes, it comes with a PE fret. It has the 8 exhaust screens on it. Two round ones, four of the little rectangular ones and two big, honkin' ones that go on forms above the two forward rectangular ones. They also include a piece of string to make into the tow cables. I'm not sure how that will look. I'm pretty sceptical about this one! I think I'll replace it with some wire ones.

I really think I'm going to enjoy building this kit, if I can just figure out where the zimm goes on the back!!

Bill

WIPW,

QUOTE: I've been taking a look at the tracks, too. They are made up of a two piece affair. Part 1 has two of the "raised" portions of the track with the lower part molded between the two. Part 2 is just the lower part and fits between two part 1 pieces. I'm sure they have a reason for molding the tracks this way, I'm just not sure what it is.

My Fruil tracks are the same way. KT had alternating track shoes presumably to save metal.. Every other one had the cleats on it an the others were more of a joiner... Thats what I have gathered... later jagdtigers had I think four bars as the odd link rather than a full pad. Those I've heard are real nightmare to build (fruil)

Bill, I imagine the zimmerit would go on the same places as the Panther in the rear.

Good review, Bill!
That big block on the left side of the turret is indeed a mystery. The only alternate versions I can think of are with or without the pistol port (functional or welded shut too, I guess), but that could have so easily been accomplished with just the little round port piece itself, instead of adding inches of seam to clean. Beyond my understanding (as so many things are!).

Bill, I've been here! Posting took a back seat to building (hmmm...shouldn't it always?) while I was trying to meet the BMP-3 deadline, but even then I was posting pretty much everyday.
I suppose our posting paths didn't cross!
You'll love the Artisan Mori mantlet.
E-100 group build! (Mine's done...hee hee!)

Brian,

Time to build another!! lol

The only thing I can think of as to the why and wherefore of the turret block is that the placement is a lot surer doing it this way. There is no way to put the port in the wrong place. If it was just a little, round piece, it could go on wrong, I suppose. But talk about overkill!! There shouldn't be too much of a problem with the seam filling side of it, since the turret needs to be covered in zimm anyway. What fun! And, of course, the little raised marking where the spare track hangers go will need to be removed, too! I guess Dragon figures they are better than leaving alignment holes all over the model. I don't find them that way!

Have a good day, all.

Good points on the positive location logic, Bill!
Skif has the exact opposite philosophy. No location cues whatsoever!

Definately two schools of thought on that sort of thing. With most of the main stream companies somewhere in the middle.