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F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!
U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!
N is for NO SURVIVORS...
- Plankton
LSM
The Imperial Series kits dress up nicely with a little bit of help here and there. A small detail for potential improvement would be to paint the leather "crash pads" on the commander's hatches especially since you have plans to add a figure. Some tie-down rope for the second crate (the one not braced by the spare track run) wouldn't hurt as well from a realism stand-point. Nice work sneaking this one in under the wire for 2011 stik!
BP Models
I have built a couple myself in the past, panther II and Kugelblitz, and have a couple more in the stash. It is nice to have builds where you have to put a bit of extra effort into it instead of it all being there for you.
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
Thank you John and Bish. No, the Imperial series just need a bit more attention to detail, patience, and test fitting. They are not the fancy schmanzy "Smart Kits", but they build up pretty nice OOB. I have the Imperial Series Mk IIIG, MkIV F1, and Mk IIC (all DAK) kits in the stash. After this build I have much more confidence approaching them. The insructions look worse than the build turns out to be.
Nice build Stik. these |Imperial series kits ain't a total right off.
That's some fine looking work Stik!
Hinksy Hey Stik, An all round nice job Sir, personally I'd have liked to see some rain/grime streaking but that's just me - the mud looks very effective.
Hey Stik,
An all round nice job Sir, personally I'd have liked to see some rain/grime streaking but that's just me - the mud looks very effective.
Hinksey, I like the rain streaking idea! I will have to incorporate that in one of my next AFV builds. I'm glad that the mud works for you. Last nite I came up with an idea of how to improve it with another "wet" layer on top as a final step. Mix that with some streaking and I may have a real Pigpen look...
Tojo, thank you for the kind words.
stikpusher Prior to this build, all my previous experience with the Mk III was on the old Tamiya III M/N. This kit gave me a new appreciation for the design. I certainly have an affection for Mk IIIs now. Tigerman, I am glad you like it.
Prior to this build, all my previous experience with the Mk III was on the old Tamiya III M/N. This kit gave me a new appreciation for the design. I certainly have an affection for Mk IIIs now. Tigerman, I am glad you like it.
I too have a real passion for the III's too and had great fun making my two entries for this GB - the Tamiya Panzer III N (the newer one - Leningrad Winter Scheme) and the Cyber-Hobby SIG III B.
All the best,
Ben
On the Bench - Dragon Pz. IV Ausf. G (L.A.H.)
Oh you have to love Pz III's, well at least I do. I like how the lower hull turned out since you've fine tuned it. A very nice effort.
Eric
stikpusher--well that's a great relief then--I figured it was the flash, but wanted to be honest in case it wasn't...
....in that case, I take it all back!
I"ll see if I can find the GB and get a gander at it in a different light...
Macattack, I am glad you like it. I am still gonna have a bit of a ways to go to work out the bugs on the technique, but yes it does save a couple steps and time.
Doog, aside from the exhausts, which I knew would be covered in mud, the other areas you specified are painted. The tools were painted in steel and wood where appropriate, and the hull and co ax machine gun in gun metal. All were pin washed and dry brush with steel highlighted. But between the weathering top coats and camera flash, it has all but disappeared. If you check out the Panzer III GB, you can see where it all was. The mud technique is still being fine tuned. I did not quite get the look I wanted. Hopefully the next attempt will be more to my liking. I know from expereince in wet mud conditions, the stuff stays everywhere, even on sprocket teeth. But once it dries, it comes right off and those teeth and guide holes shine up.
Thank you for the critiques! Your feedback is very much appreciated and will be put to use.
stikpusher, the running gear technique seems to have worked pretty nicely--I can't see anything to really critique except that I would have highlighted the sprocket teeth and rims. They WOULD get worn shiny.
If I were to be honest though, the finish is a bit monochromatic and that may be the effects of the harsh flash, but it almost appears that you've rather neglected the detail painting? All the tools and whatnot are all......gray. Not much visual interest to catch the eye. Of course, it could be rationalized or explained away--dust coating, photographic evidence, etc,--but is it aesthetically optimal? The mufflers and spare tracks too, are lacking any color but the same bottom gray.
You forgot to paint the hull MG too.
For what its worth, I like how your mud technique turned out. It has a nice caked on look. Painting the running gear raw umber makes them look quite dirty...I like it! Painting them a dirty color probably saves a step or two I would imagine. Another nice build sir.
Kevin
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I built this kit for the Panzer III Group build. My final completed build for 2011, I finished it a couple hous ago exceept for a Tri Star TC figure I am working on still. It is the old Dragon Imperial Series Kit. Overall the build went smoothly, but as usual there were SNAFUs in the directions. I used the kit decals and stowage can from my spares bin. I painted it using Gunze's Acqueous Field Gray 1, which I liked as it did not have the blueish tint of Tamiya's German Gray. The weathering was my second attempt at a technique using finely sifted dirt and Future togive a mud texture on teh lower hull, supension, and running gear. I combined that with a technique that I learned from Jim Wechsler at our AMPS chapter, of foregoing detail painting of tracks, road wheels, etc, and instead painting those areas in Raw Umber/RawSienna. Thanks for looking.
Comments and critiques welcome
Thanks for looking and Happy New Years
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