using hairspray to weather

the doog

 

TheWildChild:

 

i wonder if making scratches in the dry whitewash in the area one plans to scratch off and running water into that while scrubbing with a toothbrush would also work? instead of having to mask off little areas?

GREAT JOB on that build by the way Lufttiger. i saw the king tiger that Karl Logan did last winter in fsm and that is what made me want make a tank in winter camo, i am just about done with an academy tiger I (the one with the full interior) and putting it in a dio similar to yours......it turns out celluclay take longer than "24 hours" to dry, mine has been drying for about 6 days now lol.

 

 

Wildchild, it's gratifying to hear that you got some inspiration from my KT in that issue. It's nice to know that people actually read these things and learn from them. That's nice to know!

By the way, if you did read that article, you'll know that I DID do that very thing--scratching off an area and using that to get water underneath. It's a little trickier than doing the masking though as you don't get the volume of water under there.

Also, squeeze your Celluclay out hard in some wedding lace and blot it on paper towels before you put it down. You can also put it in the oven for an hour or two at LOW heat to speed it along. I can get mine dry within a day or two usually, unless it's a big application.

that was you? i had no idea lol. Its also nice to know that the people that actually write the article and build the kits communicate with their readers too. i still have the article, but havent read it since shortly after it came out. i seem to remember that you used mig pigments for the mud thought right? my local hobbyshop doesent carry the mig brand, so i settle for a few different brands. but to create mud on my armor, cars, and trucks i simply mix different colors with water or white glue and apply them, lighter browns for dry mud and darker for wet fresh mud and then apply a semi-gloss or even high gloss with a brush to simulate the "wet" effect. you have to use enamel or acrylic gloss though, both times i tried lacquer gloss it turned all the mud a milky white color (it ruined the finish on a 1/24 sprint car and a 1/48 tamiya Panzer IV) but with some experimentation it works great!

my application was pretty big (i used a ceramic flooring tile about 14'' x 14'') and pretty thick in places (close to 3/4'') so i cant say im that shocked it took so long. it was dry enough today to paint the mud and add the snow...now i just gotta finish the tiger lol.

i'll post some pics of the tiger once its done if you guys want to see how it goes. im going to try to at least start the hairspray tonight.

TheWildChild

i wonder if making scratches in the dry whitewash in the area one plans to scratch off and running water into that while scrubbing with a toothbrush would also work? instead of having to mask off little areas?

GREAT JOB on that build by the way Lufttiger. i saw the king tiger that Karl Logan did last winter in fsm and that is what made me want make a tank in winter camo, i am just about done with an academy tiger I (the one with the full interior) and putting it in a dio similar to yours......it turns out celluclay take longer than "24 hours" to dry, mine has been drying for about 6 days now lol.

Wildchild, it's gratifying to hear that you got some inspiration from my KT in that issue. It's nice to know that people actually read these things and learn from them. That's nice to know!

By the way, if you did read that article, you'll know that I DID do that very thing--scratching off an area and using that to get water underneath. It's a little trickier than doing the masking though as you don't get the volume of water under there.

Also, squeeze your Celluclay out hard in some wedding lace and blot it on paper towels before you put it down. You can also put it in the oven for an hour or two at LOW heat to speed it along. I can get mine dry within a day or two usually, unless it's a big application.

Thanks for the cudos, yeah thats why i dont use celluclay anymore, i use 45min drywall mud.

i wonder if making scratches in the dry whitewash in the area one plans to scratch off and running water into that while scrubbing with a toothbrush would also work? instead of having to mask off little areas?

GREAT JOB on that build by the way Lufttiger. i saw the king tiger that Karl Logan did last winter in fsm and that is what made me want make a tank in winter camo, i am just about done with an academy tiger I (the one with the full interior) and putting it in a dio similar to yours......it turns out celluclay take longer than "24 hours" to dry, mine has been drying for about 6 days now lol.

Hi folks,

In late 2010 I built the 1/35 Tamiya Hetzer and painted it with an very effective 'Ambush Scheme' but ruined it by using solvent based matt varnish from a rattlecan (I nw use Vallejo waterbased varnishes through my ab-loads better).

I recently decided to learn the technique mentioned and decide that the Hetzer would be a perfect platform to try it on. Here is a link to the thread - it will tell you EVERYTHING that you need to know and I'm glad to say that the Hetzer is now a total stunner. At first I wasn't convinced but after some tweaking it is perfection. Have a very thorough read of this entire thread and you'll be set to go.

/forums/t/143402.aspx?PageIndex=3

I hope this helps you - it should!

All the best and good luck!

Ben

Not sure about future, but when i put the coat of hairspray on, it protected the underlining coat of paint, which is what you want. Then to remove the white i used mostly rubbing alcohal, water didn't do enough.

The hair spray is water soluble which makes the top coat of paint come off.

It's best to use a clear sealer like Future so your base color stays put and then the hair spray on top of that.

HTH answer your question

Tony lee

Not sure how I missed this whole thread...So what I'm hearing is that you want to get water to flow between the hairspray and the base coats of paint. Then the removal starts you are actually separating the top winter wash with the hairspray under it. Is this right? I was thinking the hairspray was more like a protectant like future but that sounds to be wrong.

Thats pretty much how i did that tiger in the mag, shot stright from the can, let it dry, then hit it again on spots i missed the first go arround. The stuff seems very thin and didn't make any globs on the surface.

thanks for the help guys! i am planning on weathering my Tiger like the one in the latest issue of FSM (just a tip: if choosing your first armor model, DO NOT get a kit with a full interior lol), i started it about 7 months ago and it needs to be finished (football season, deer season, and the holidays kinda kept me busy) like the other 4 projects i have half-done.

the doog

 Make sure you mask  some "window" in the top coat that you can use to get the water down into the hair spray and start the removal/degradation process.

good thing you mentioned this doog because i wouldnt have thought of it.

I've used it in many builds so far, and I've never gone through the trouble of decanting it. Just spray it on right from the can. If it's on too thin, you'll have a much harder time removing it. Make sure you mask  some "window" in the top coat that you can use to get the water down into the hair spray and start the removal/degradation process.

As far as "spot" placement, you can just brush it on.

Why don't you try the new AK products, Worn Effects and Heavy Chipping Effects? They are made to be used in place of hair spray and work though your air brush.

Either way. Decanting does give you more control but it's not strictly necessary unless you need that control. If i'm doing an entire vehicle then I don't bother and just spray out of the can. If i'm doing spot work or a confined area then sure i'll decant it.I have used literally a dozen coats of HS and paint on recent model without any perceptible loss of detail so don't be afraid to spray out of the can.

I have added a link to another thread about this where I explain the methods that I typically use with HS.

/forums/t/140693.aspx

You can tune it to some degree but a few things are certain. Keep your top colors as dry as possible. Tamiya paints are what you want for your top color. Gunze works about as well so i'm told but most other Acrylics won't function properly with this technique.

Good luck!

I use an AB. Less messy.

I am no expert but from what I have seen it is more contollable to decant and us an AB if you have one.