ISRAELI MERKAVA MK.IV 1/35 (step by step)"by Alexander47"

RESlusher

I like the job you did on the tracks.  Overall I doff my cap to you, sir! 

The only thing I did see that I'd like to call your attention to is the slight silvering on the decals on the front and rear mud flaps.  That happens when air gets trapped under the decal. Next time shoot a gloss coat over the whole thing (not just the parts that will get decals) and let it cure for about 24 hours.  This will give the decals a nice, smooth surface on which to lay down.  Once the decals are dry hit them with another coat of clear gloss to protect them from your weathering.

Once you're done weathering you can spray the whole thing with something like Testor's DullCote to take away the shine.

But still, I think you did really good.  A bunch of us are going to go out and pick up that kit now. 

 

Ok

 Thanks for the clarification
I did not know the "Dullcote Testor"

RESlusher

I like the job you did on the tracks.  Overall I doff my cap to you, sir! 

The only thing I did see that I'd like to call your attention to is the slight silvering on the decals on the front and rear mud flaps.  That happens when air gets trapped under the decal. Next time shoot a gloss coat over the whole thing (not just the parts that will get decals) and let it cure for about 24 hours.  This will give the decals a nice, smooth surface on which to lay down.  Once the decals are dry hit them with another coat of clear gloss to protect them from your weathering.

Once you're done weathering you can spray the whole thing with something like Testor's DullCote to take away the shine.

But still, I think you did really good.  A bunch of us are going to go out and pick up that kit now. 

 

Ok

 Thanks for the clarification
I did not know the "Dullcote Testor"

I like the job you did on the tracks.  Overall I doff my cap to you, sir! 

The only thing I did see that I'd like to call your attention to is the slight silvering on the decals on the front and rear mud flaps.  That happens when air gets trapped under the decal. Next time shoot a gloss coat over the whole thing (not just the parts that will get decals) and let it cure for about 24 hours.  This will give the decals a nice, smooth surface on which to lay down.  Once the decals are dry hit them with another coat of clear gloss to protect them from your weathering.

Once you're done weathering you can spray the whole thing with something like Testor's DullCote to take away the shine.

But still, I think you did really good.  A bunch of us are going to go out and pick up that kit now. 

Photo with natural lighting

the doog

Everything's looking great, Alexander--the periscopes are really eye-catching.

Make sure you mask those before you paint!

Thank you to remember, but will stick with this color, "gray Sinai"

Everything's looking great, Alexander--the periscopes are really eye-catching.

Make sure you mask those before you paint!

I'm glad, I'm glad that people like

Good looking details .

Towards the end

'wingy thingy "??
  When wingy appears, we jump over and continue our course better or worse !

Nice work on the details and optics on this one Alexander, look forward to seeing it with paint on.

given that Im usually a 'wingy thingy" builder I dont get over to the dark side very often...  seeing this build though makes me think I should come over more often :D

Another advance
Full tower, but no gunner machines

Wow!!  Great job on the optics!! 

your making fast progress,looks good

Good fitting and nice paint finish of the track

I just found it (the kit) at my lacal hobby dealership . I havent opened it yet . I read the reviews of the Hobby Boss kit and decided against that kit .I will be checking back in .

I've been drooling over that kit for a while!  I almost picked it up at my local HobbyTown this past Sunday.

It was very helpful to me Richard. I came across the video when I scanned by curiosity the QR Code on the box with my phone. There are some others

Wow!  I like that video!  I'm wishing I would have done my tracks first to get them out of the way at this point. 

Thanks for the clarification Richard.

Alex, I'm not sure if I got your question right. No problems with the links, in fact, I did follow the instructions and I noticed that I had my chains longer by a link, so I had to remove one on each side.

I did followed this video and worked like a charm.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUh5kmSYOxk&

Yes, OOB is "out of the box"...not to be confused with "OOP" which is "out of production" meaning the kit is not longer manfactured.

El Taino

I'm working on the same exact kit as we speak. I build OOB and I don't like to make every build a major expense so I did settle for the stock tracks and they are a pain. There is an ejection pin mark on every other link. Other than that and the fact that there is a gazillion tiny parts where Tamiya could have made it simpler, I have no complaints on my 1st Academy armor.

Cheers!

What is OOB? ( Out of box)

This kit is Academy
I also heard complaints of the Track-link, which is short you can not join??
Although I'm not where I do not know

A.Alexandre

I'm working on the same exact kit as we speak. I build OOB and I don't like to make every build a major expense so I did settle for the stock tracks and they are a pain. There is an ejection pin mark on every other link. Other than that and the fact that there is a gazillion tiny parts where Tamiya could have made it simpler, I have no complaints on my 1st Academy armor.

Cheers!