Hi Hinksy

Easy answers as far as I'm concerned.Unless its very fine detail you shouldnt be loosing any when you use primer. If your using an automotive you may loose some as it is a little thicker. I have used that on tanks but not aircraft. On aircraft or anything I want a really smooth finish I use Tamiyas Extra fine which is good. I have used Vallejo primers on tanks and they work great without any loss of detail.

On filters I use them after the decals are down as in my mind a filter is designed to show aging and weathering when a tank has been in the field to the markings shoule be affected as well

Hope this helps

Phil

Ben,I filter and wash after decaling so they show that worn and weathered look

Thanks P & TOJO,

TOJO - I said I had done it both ways and for that very reason. I'm just interested in how you guys prep your final stages. I've filtered first and then laid decals and vice-versa, I'm not sure what I'll do on this one?

P - I've just ordered some Mr Surfacer 1200 rattlecan primer which is what my friend uses apparently. It's micro grained andthe guy at the shop on the phone said a quick sweep or two is ample. I've also ordered a small bottle of Hull Red coloured Vallejo Primer for air brushes. That should be interesting.

I want to get it right as I have my big Tiger I ready for priming and painting!

 Btw, if anyone gets the chance to have a quick look at my Marder II latest blog update please comment as no one has so far! It's on page two so far and I'm worried that it may look a bit rubbish or something hence the no replies! Put me out of my misery as all of your feedback is excellent and highly needed!

Thanks guys,

Ben

Ben- Please do let us know how you like the Mr Surfacer 1200 rattle can.  I use Mr Surfacer 1000 or 1200 as primer but it is really pain in @ss to clean the AB afterward so now I am tempted to try the rattle can one day.  

Am concerned it is hard to control the flow of spray... used Testor Primer in a rattle can on my Huey recently just for the interior which was a good thing since it will be hard to see anyway and the result was terrible.  Never again... that Testor primer rattle can is in the trash can now.

Ben, you really don''t need primers on today's tank models. The plastic they use isn't like auto modeling--THAT stuff is NASTY. (As I've found out--plus you're shooting bright colored gloss paints as well).

If you've got PE parts, you can just spot-prime those. You don't need to prime tank models. I honestly can't remember if I've ever once primed a tank model? It's just not a necessary step.

And YES; you should weather decals. Otherwise they look too bright, for the most part.

Ben,

My two cents: anytime you have the option of doing something through the airbrush when it comes to painting large areas, you should take it. It provides more control and even application and will definitely avoid the loss of detail you seem to be encountering.

As for filters, I'm definitely in the post-decal camp so that you've got a unified finish effect and your decals don't seem to be "floating" above some layers of the finish vs. others.

OK.....I will add to the pocket of change. I LOVE the Vallejo primers....of course I use the OD primer.I would agree with Karl but with PE and resin details plus any styrene scratch parts....it gets everything one base color. No loss of detail works great right from the jar to the AB.

And yes...decals....then washes and filters.

Rounds Complete!!

Cheers guys,

• KARL - I meant between the filtered surface and the washed surface . I've done it now and will be putting filters on top. Re the primers I've primed build and not primed builds and personally find everything to work much better on a primed surface but each to their own I suppose, whatever works best for you and all that
• Andy - my Mr Surfacer 1200 arrived today so I'll see how that behaves next time I need to prime something! Probably my Tiger I.
• Bill - I'm also waiting on an order of Vallejo air brush hull red primer, I can't wait to see how that goes!

Thanks guys!

Ben

Ben,

I love Mister Surfacer both in the can and air-brushed. Only issue is it's so expensive and currently hard to find here in the States. I used to not prime but some judges knocked me on 'glue spots' on models- they were hard to see but looking closely I could tell the liquid cement I'd used left a few rough places- the Mr. Surfacer evens them out so they vanish. It's good stuff!

Cliff

Hi Cliff,

I got my can of 1200 today. I was surprised at how small it was compared to the huge can of Vallejo rattlecan stuff - that said the bloke who I was on the phone to when ordering said all you need are a couple of very light passes and the surface looks perfect so I'll give it a go on my Tiger I which is assembled awaiting primer and paint.

I've also got some Vallejo Hull Red air brush primer on order.

All the best,

Ben

Ben,

Yeah, it doesn't take very much. Like to see how the red primer works out for you, I've never painted a model that way.

Good luck

Cliff