The correct order to place these processes

Base coat (primer?)

Pre-shading* (If you’re doing all these other paint layers, do you really think you need this?)

Top coat (primary color?)

Camo colors. (attach all parts to be painted, especially turret to hull if camo depicts a field applied  scheme, such as miost WWII German and MERDC)

Johnsons klear (I prefer Testor’s Glosscoat)

Microset/Decals/Microsol)

Johnsons klear (I prefer Testor’s Glosscoat airbrushed)

Clear flat (I prefer Testor’s Dullcoat airbrushed)

Chipping*

Hairspray (if winter weathering)*

Filters

Washes

Dry brushing

Rust stains*

Grime stains*

Mud application *

Washes on Mud application

Dry brushing on Mud application

Dust weathering*

IMHO, the items with an * are very faddish and easily overdone.

Bhamoggy, Take it slow. There is no need to do all that you have listed. Start simple. With time you will gain experience and confidence to do some of what you have listed. There are lots of great guys here to help you on your way. Take it slow and be a sponge at the FSM forums.

By the way, welcome to the forums! Don't forget to have fun!!!!!

Chazzer

The tank I'm doing at the moment, I've applied base coat, then top coat. Applied decals using a decal fixer, but some of the topcoat came off when using the fixer.

I did that before applying johnsons KLEAR .

Do you have to apply KLEAR first before applying the decals always ?

I would definitely recommend using the clear before the decals. Some would argue the only use for clear is to benefit decal application. If used over a surface that doesnt have rivets, panel lines etc, I would recommend applying the decal over the clear without fixer.

There is no one single way to finish a model. Itdepends on the finish you are trying to achieve- and every modeller has a different approach and different steps and processes. My process is as follows:

Acrylic base coat (light color)

Acrylic post-shading of recesses and corners (heavily diluted paint somewhat darker than the base coat)

Acrylic clear (pledge future, or in your case CLEAR).

Decals (and another coat of clear over decals that dont want to sit properly).

Dark pinwash for panel lines (oil-based)

Chipping+very light raw umber rust (oil and enamel-which is oil-based btw)

acrylic dull coat

Oil dot filter and other oil work.

pigments and mud for the lower hull and running gear.

If you're using testors gloss coat or duel coat instead of KLEAR , does the testors need to be thinned with anything or applied direct ?

Chazzer

Bhamoggy, Take it slow. There is no need to do all that you have listed. Start simple. With time you will gain experience and confidence to do some of what you have listed. There are lots of great guys here to help you on your way. Take it slow and be a sponge at the FSM forums.

 

By the way, welcome to the forums! Don't forget to have fun!!!!!

Chazzer

I disagree, well, in part. I say go for it. Try all those steps. See which ones work for you and which ones don't Experiment. Don't be afraid to screw up a little bit.

But, as Chazzer said, above all else, be sure to have fun.

As far as the order, I think Al has indicated the order that I typically follow (though I don't use nearly that number of steps - I think I end up combining or skipping some).

Personally, I use nearly everything you have mention but they're never in the same order twice. I bounce around a lot between techniques and mediums. My friend calls it a "scratch where it itches" paint style. I'm not big on setting a specific order, generally it's not necessary. Obvioulsy there are somethings that need to be done before others (base coat and such) but once that's past it's a back and forth free for all. This works for me but I understand some folks need a system or steps to follow and that's fine, nothing wrong with that.

Good luck on your project!

bhamoggy

If you're using testors gloss coat or duel coat instead of KLEAR , does the testors need to be thinned with anything or applied direct ?

I thin these with good old hardware store house brand PAINT THINNER that I buy every decade or so by the gallon. Dullcoat needs a bit more because the dulling agent is thicker while the Glosscoat is more uniform in viscosity. The only time I've used "airbruch thinner" was when I found a can along with some paints at a yard sale. I found no difference in performance.

Is enamel thinners ok to use for testors thinning? Is it about 50-50 mix?

Just experiment. Its the only way to learn.

Boyd, That makes sense also. To each his own. By the way, how have you been. It's been a while..I think the last time I saw ya was at the hobby shop. Pretty cool place huh?!!

Bhamoggy, Like I wrote, there is lots of great guys here willing to help..have fun.!

Scott