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The correct order to place these processes

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  • Member since
    January 2011
  • From: The Great North Woods, Maine
Posted by Chazzer on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 11:28 PM

Boyd, That makes sense also. To each his own. By the way, how have you been. It's been a while..I think the last time I saw ya was at the hobby shop. Pretty cool place huh?!!

Bhamoggy, Like I wrote, there is lots of great guys here willing to help..have fun.!

Scott

ChazzerBlack Eye

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: Fort Collins, Colorado, USA
Posted by Njal Thorgeirsson on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 9:39 PM

Just experiment. Its the only way to learn.

FACEBOOK: Ryan Olson Thorgeirsson for pics of all my builds.

"There are two kinds of people in this world; those who put fries/chips on their sandwiches, and those who don't enjoy life."

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  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by bhamoggy on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 2:58 PM

Is enamel thinners ok to use for testors thinning? Is it about 50-50 mix?

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 12:21 PM

bhamoggy

If you're using testors gloss coat or duel coat instead of KLEAR , does the testors need to be thinned with anything or applied direct ?

I thin these with good old hardware store house brand PAINT THINNER that I buy every decade or so by the gallon. Dullcoat needs a bit more because the dulling agent is thicker while the Glosscoat is more uniform in viscosity. The only time I've used "airbruch thinner" was when I found a can along with some paints at a yard sale. I found no difference in performance.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Arkansas
Posted by K-dawg on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 11:25 AM

Personally, I use nearly everything you have mention but they're never in the same order twice. I bounce around a lot between techniques and mediums. My friend calls it a "scratch where it itches" paint style. I'm not big on setting a specific order, generally it's not necessary. Obvioulsy there are somethings that need to be done before others (base coat and such) but once that's past it's a back and forth free for all. This works for me but I understand some folks need a system or steps to follow and that's fine, nothing wrong with that.

 

Good luck on your project!

Kenneth Childres, Central Arkansas Scale Modelers

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: 41 Degrees 52.4 minutes North; 72 Degrees 7.3 minutes West
Posted by bbrowniii on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 10:41 AM

Chazzer

Bhamoggy, Take it slow. There is no need to do all that you have listed. Start simple. With time you will gain experience and confidence to do some of what you have listed. There are lots of great guys here to help you on your way. Take it slow and be a sponge at the FSM forums.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r314/ramarti/sponge/imagesCAKPABFQ.jpg

 

By the way, welcome to the forums! Don't forget to have fun!!!!!

Chazzer

I disagree, well, in part. I say go for it. Try all those steps. See which ones work for you and which ones don't Experiment. Don't be afraid to screw up a little bit.

But, as Chazzer said, above all else, be sure to have fun.

As far as the order, I think Al has indicated the order that I typically follow (though I don't use nearly that number of steps - I think I end up combining or skipping some).

'All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing' - Edmund Burke (1770 ??)

 

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by bhamoggy on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 9:59 AM

If you're using testors gloss coat or duel coat instead of KLEAR , does the testors need to be thinned with anything or applied direct ?

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: Fort Collins, Colorado, USA
Posted by Njal Thorgeirsson on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 9:24 AM

I would definitely recommend using the clear before the decals. Some would argue the only use for clear is to benefit decal application. If used over a surface that doesnt have rivets, panel lines etc, I would recommend applying the decal over the clear without fixer.

There is no one single way to finish a model. Itdepends on the finish you are trying to achieve- and every modeller has a different approach and different steps and processes. My process is as follows:

Acrylic base coat (light color)

Acrylic post-shading of recesses and corners (heavily diluted paint somewhat darker than the base coat)

Acrylic clear (pledge future, or in your case CLEAR).

Decals (and another coat of clear over decals that dont want to sit properly).

Dark pinwash for panel lines (oil-based)

Chipping+very light raw umber rust (oil and enamel-which is oil-based btw)

acrylic dull coat

Oil dot filter and other oil work.

pigments and mud for the lower hull and running gear.

FACEBOOK: Ryan Olson Thorgeirsson for pics of all my builds.

"There are two kinds of people in this world; those who put fries/chips on their sandwiches, and those who don't enjoy life."

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  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by bhamoggy on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 1:50 AM

The tank I'm doing at the moment, I've applied base coat, then top coat. Applied decals using a decal fixer, but some of the topcoat came off when using the fixer.

I did that before applying johnsons KLEAR .

Do you have to apply KLEAR first before applying the decals always ?

  • Member since
    January 2011
  • From: The Great North Woods, Maine
Posted by Chazzer on Monday, January 30, 2012 7:39 PM

Bhamoggy, Take it slow. There is no need to do all that you have listed. Start simple. With time you will gain experience and confidence to do some of what you have listed. There are lots of great guys here to help you on your way. Take it slow and be a sponge at the FSM forums.

 

By the way, welcome to the forums! Don't forget to have fun!!!!!

Chazzer

ChazzerBlack Eye

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Monday, January 30, 2012 6:17 PM

Base coat (primer?)

Pre-shading* (If you’re doing all these other paint layers, do you really think you need this?)

Top coat (primary color?)

Camo colors. (attach all parts to be painted, especially turret to hull if camo depicts a field applied  scheme, such as miost WWII German and MERDC)

Johnsons klear (I prefer Testor’s Glosscoat)

Microset/Decals/Microsol)

Johnsons klear (I prefer Testor’s Glosscoat airbrushed)

Clear flat (I prefer Testor’s Dullcoat airbrushed)

Chipping*

Hairspray (if winter weathering)*

Filters

Washes

Dry brushing

Rust stains*

Grime stains*

Mud application *

Washes on Mud application

Dry brushing on Mud application

Dust weathering*

IMHO, the items with an * are very faddish and easily overdone.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    February 2011
The correct order to place these processes
Posted by bhamoggy on Monday, January 30, 2012 2:53 PM

I'm quite new to modelling and I'd like to know the correct order to finish a model. If I've missed any processes out, please add them in.

 

Base coat

Top coat

Pre-shading

Decals

Chipping

Hairspray (if winter weathering)

Filters

Washes

Johnsons klear

Dry brushing

Grime stains

Rust stains

Dust weathering

Mud application

 

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