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rust

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  • Member since
    February 2009
  • From: mass,USA
Posted by scratchmod on Sunday, February 5, 2012 9:30 PM

All of what the fellas do works fine.

It all depends on the type of metal, location and how rusty you want it to be. As for products, well there are many out there that are great for rusting. Again it all depends on the type of rust your going for. There are different techniques that you can use to achieve differant effects. Will it be a fresh burnt out tank, or one that has been sitting out for say 60 years.

To get the most realistic effect it's best to work with thin layers. This way you get texture and dimension tom the rust. Pigments can be used many ways and mixed with various products and techniques.

I have some SBS's on my site that might help. I also have some videos on youtube under mrscratchmod.. You can also go here where I have a couple of quick how to's, under the painting and tips categories.

http://modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/index.cgi

You can see what I mean about different types of rust and techniques on my site.

www.scratchmod.com

If there is anything specific you need help with just drop me an email.

 

cheers

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Saturday, February 4, 2012 1:43 PM

Check the model railroad section of the hobbyshop too... Model Railroaders have been rusting stuff up for decades and a lot of weathering stuff that's "new" in the Armor world is old news over there...  Plus, it's likely to be less expensive...

What I use depends on what I'm rusting, and weather it's rust from water or heat (like on exhaust systems)... For "wet" rust, I generally use a good rusty base-color like Testor's #1185 Rust and add some talc for texture though... Then I do a darker wash, letting it settle into the low areas, and then it's onto drybrushing with lighter shades of the basic color... 

I use pastel-powder to finish it off..

Same process for heat-induced rust, but I start with Rust, but add some grey to the mix.... Can't really describe the color, but go out to your car and look at the exhaust manifold...  Then I use pastels again, mostly greys and browns, with a skoshi-bit of charcoal here & there..

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Friday, February 3, 2012 9:22 PM

I use pastels or MIG rust pigments in differing methods of application--thinners, setting solutions, even glue--in order to simulate various degrees and ages of rust.

I would recommend you picking up the November 2008 back issue of Finescale Modeler to see how I did my rusty Nomad, or July 2011 where I rusted out a '63 Impala. I used these methods in the articles and you can see the progression of weathering in photos.

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, February 3, 2012 8:56 PM

I like using washes and tints, maybe some drybrushing, to get my rust effects. Most paint lines have a rust shade, and almost all are different, varying from bright orangish to darker and browner. And Burnt Sienna is great too. But go easy, operational AFVs are nowhere near as rusty as is popular to finish today.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2011
  • From: Medford, OR
Posted by OMCUSNR on Friday, February 3, 2012 6:32 PM

At work (Micro Trains Line) we use Floquil Rust (thinned about 60%) shot through a Paasche H airbrush, or hand applied with a brush for streaking.

 

Reid

Grumman Iron Works Fan.

"Don't sweat the small stuff.  And.... it's ALL small stuff, until you hear INCOMING!!!!!!"

  • Member since
    June 2011
rust
Posted by woodworker on Friday, February 3, 2012 6:00 PM

just curious, how do you folks get your rust effects?  I have seen kits that run upwards of $50 or more and I noticed some people talk about pigments and or pastels.  Just wondered  who you do it/

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