Marder III M

PS yes forgot to mention, the tracks are very over done lol

You know sometimes we are our own worst critics, I think it turned out pretty damned good nothing that a thinned was of the base colour over the top surfaces, and a wash of black/umber couldn't take care of on the tracks.

What did you use to create the little crescent shapes of you camo pattern?

Edit/P.S. - the addition of a bit of lychen to simulate some brush on it as camo, really makes the entire model pop, and catch your eye.

Tamiya kits, correct? One of my personal favorites.

Overall it looks pretty good. I do agree with your  track comments. You could tone it down with dark pigments.

I've always wanted to try some sort of foliage on one of my builds. I just never know what to use.

Good effort on the camo, I've seen that pattern before and might be a tad oversized, but it looks good. 

One other note, is the muzzle. From everything I've read, is that they wouldn't be blackened. I made the same mistake on some earlier builds, including my Marder III.

Subhuman - Didn't think of the base color wash. Will keep it mind for next time thanks.

The crescent shapes I used a bit of rubber/sponge stuff trimmed to shape, didnt work as well as I hoped but it was all about the learning curve so didn't really matter.

tigerman - Yes its the Tamiya kit. I think I would like to build it again soonish with some good reference stuff and AM tracks (not rubber bands) and and maybe some PE.

I had big bag of foliage left over from a diorama base and this build just called out for it .

Yeah wasnt impressed with the oversized cammo either. I did it freehand, next time a mask I think

Andrew

Andrew, you did a great job replicating it, perhaps use a smaller tip brush next time.

I agree, this kit was screaming for AM tracks. Still a fantastic kit. 

tigerman, I used my smallest tip a .3, first time I've used that size so maybe I just need more practice or to thin down more.

Looks pretty good to me Andrew.

If anything, the issue with your pin wash is more that the paint is insufficiently thinned rather than the lack of a gloss coat. I have often pin-washed directly to flat paint without problems. In my case, I'll use an oil-based pin-wash, but to prevent tide marks and the heavy outline, wet down the surrounding area with clean thinner first before applying the pin-wash to the detail areas. this allows the pigment to dissipate a little rather than form a hard edge (even if the base coat is "flat").

I really like it!  I think the tracks came out great!