Applying armor washes without Future?

I'm sure soeone will correct me, but I've used Future once, and all it did was clog my airbrush. Personally(and excuse me whilst I go stand behind a metal fence to protect me from the things everyones gonna throw at me) I spray acrylics, wash and filters w/oils, pigments(w or w/out fixer) and the whole world stays honky-dory...just my 2 cents...(now here's where I run)

I guess it depends on what mediums these new techniques use and what paint you use. As i use enamels (which i will not be changeing) and as i do oil washes, i have to use future. I haven't had any problems with it clogging my airbrush, so i have no problem with it.

Some people prefer a semi gloss or satin finish.  Some prefer the tough and glossy Future finish.  It depends.  I also concur with Bish.  Never ever had an issue w/Future clogging my airbrush.  Maybe a chunk of dried future fell into your paint well?

Stick with future if it works for you . I've also used Future with no airbrush problems . I thin my Future with Windex . You have to clean your airbrush after useing Future off course .I cant believe how forgiving Future is . The stuff can even be dry sanded after it hardens ! As far as it being glossy i add some Tamiya flat base to Future to make Satin or even Matt finish .

I can't imagine Future clogging a properly working air brush.  It is a great base to spray any acrylic on or over any medium. You can even spray it on aluminum parts as a primer.  I paint in acrylic but on the model I do not use Future (unless I use a decal), but most of my work is lightly weathered. There really are not that many ' new ' trends in painting in my opinion. Even color modulation can trace it's roots back to the old days when artists would touch up and highlight black and white studio photo portraits. If you experiment a little, you will find a system that works for you. Thats just my 2 bucks... inflation you know

tread

I never use it because I use acrylics for base coats, unless we're talking autos, where I use lacquer paint. You don't really need to seal Tamiya acrylics. If you use enamels, you obviously have to seal them with something if you're going to use oil washes over them.

I don't like using gloss coat sealers to weather over because I don't like the way the wash reacts over it. It just basically slides right off. And forget using pigments over it! I much prefer using wash and pigments over a flat finish. I also don't generally use gloss under my decals, and never seal finished models at all.

the doog

I don't like using gloss coat sealers to weather over because I don't like the way the wash reacts over it. It just basically slides right off. And forget using pigments over it! I much prefer using wash and pigments over a flat finish.

 The gloss finish is ok if you want to pin wash sharp details like hatch lines, molded on screens etc. Otherwise the wash just slides right off. The flat finish gives the washes and pigments a 'bite'. 

I had old airbrushes that wouldn't shoot enamels or acrylics anymore but would still shoot Future. There's something about the consistency of Future that airbrushes really like.

I agree with ya Doog, that exactly how i do mine as well, just look at Doog's tank on the cover of the current FSM! It's frickin awesome!!!

"As for fit filters; it's pointless to do them on gloss. They just aren't going to stain the surface the way you want. "

OK,,,now I'm confused.  I use Tamyia and then use future to coat the finish before applying weathering oils.  I try and do a filter wash but never know if it is working or if iti suppose to be light...

So after using tamyia paints, is there a better sealer to use (ither than Future) for applying filter washes.   Do  I then reseal before applying a dot weather technique or other weathering techniques with oils?

Just my two cents worth.  I have tried Future on armor models.  Sure it's great for applying washes, decals and filters.  The problem I run into is that it has been hard for me to get my finishes dead flat afterwards-I've tried airbrushing all kinds of flat solutions.

My solution, at least as far as washes goes is to use the  pre-made Vallejo Washes.  They go on really nice and don't seem to stain.  You also might want to check out AFV Acrylic Techniques by Mig Jimenez.  Covers acrylic washes and filters without applying Future although they may apply satin finishes beforehand on the models in the DVD.

You cant get Future dead flat ? I guess a picture will confirm that if you want it you can get it .............dead flat .

Multiple coats of Future over enamel and decal .UCK ! That decal ridge and its Glossy !

Edges of decal and Future sanded smooth

More Future and the decal ridge is gone .

Several coats of Futre with Tamiya flat base mixed in ...... thinned with windex . Dead flat !

Maybe it depends on technique and what products are used more than anything else . Like everything else in this hobby there are multiple ways to achieve your desired goal .

As Carl mentions, the "flat" you're applying makes a difference. I use Testors Lusterless Flat in the spray can myself and have never had any issues with Future remaining glossy after a coat.

Brian D.

 The problem I run into is that it has been hard for me to get my finishes dead flat afterwards-I've tried airbrushing all kinds of flat solutions.

That's odd.........I have used Tamiya clear flat, Testors clear flat lacquer and Model master clear acrylic flat over Future and always get a dead flat finish. What products have you used  that haven't worked for you?

Pollyscale Flat and Vallejo Matte Finishes are a couple that I have used.

If your air brushing your flat from a bottle (versus a paint cup ) some times the flat pigment will separate from the liquid and settle to the bottom .Then If your siphon tube does not reach the bottom  you will be spraying a mixture with less flat in it . If this happens stop and re-mix the flat into the liquid to get the flat pigment suspended again .