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Artists dry pigments.

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  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Goffstown, NH
Artists dry pigments.
Posted by New Hampshire on Monday, April 29, 2013 7:16 PM

So I had learned that in the art world you can get dry pigments, the concept being that it allows painters to mix their own paints (which seems pretty easy enough since your average tube of artists oils is what, pigments and an oil carrier, usually linseed oil I believe.) But then it got me thinking.  MIG weathering pigments, and others like them, are pretty much exactly that, pure paint pigment.  Correct?  So I got to me wondering if it would be possible to use artists dry pigments to make your own weathering powders.  But would it be really cost effective?  The answer it appears may be yes......very much so.  Take this artists website for example:

http://www.danielsmith.com/Item--i-G-284-030

1 lb of pigment goes for just a couple bucks more than a bottle of MIG stuff.  Right out of the door I see a few colors that could easily pass for ready to use colors...bone black for "smoke", Buff Titanium Oxide for " MIG "dry mud", burnt sienna might pass for "Vietnam earth" and so on.  Then there are the endless combinations you can mix on your own.  But of course the key thing here is the big question.....are indeed the MIG pigments (and other similar products) basically the same thing?  Meaning are they indeed nothing more than over glorified artists pigments simply premixed to their liking to make the colors they sell?  Will an artist dry pigment act the same as a MIG (et al) act the same?  So I guess that is my question, are these products similar?  I am lead to believe yes since I did also find this website while doing some google-fu which shows you indeed how to paint and weather using dry pigments:

http://chestofcolors.com/how-to-paint-with-dry-pigments/

I am tempted to try this out myself to see if it works, because if it does it may open up a world of economical possibilities.  But like the idea of sounding out more experienced persons here first of all for their opinion. Cool

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Monday, April 29, 2013 7:28 PM

Modelers "pigment" are not "pure paint" pigments. They actually contain a fair amount of "filler" that retard their intensity when mixed, and help in adhesion, from what I understand.

I don't know how artists' pigments are formulated, but if they're "pure" paint pigment, they will act a bit differently that actual formulated modeler's pigments.

Not claiming to be an authority on it, but that's how I understood it.

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Goffstown, NH
Posted by New Hampshire on Monday, April 29, 2013 7:41 PM

Thanks Doog, that was what I was unsure about with the weathering pigments, meaning if they were "pure" pigment or not.  I think I shall investigate further to see where this idea might lead me...... Big Smile

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by stalkerfish on Saturday, May 4, 2013 3:32 PM

Being an artist myself, I use artists' pigments for weathering on almost all my models, usually in conjunction with Vallejo powders. They tend to be a lot easier to move around, but they sometimes get where they shouldn't. Using only artists' pigments on a model might be tough, but they are certainly a more affordable alternative. Try using powdered tile grout to lighten the shade if needed. This stuff is phenomenally easy to work with and adheres very well when used with a mix of white glue and water or a sealer coat of hairspray.

In Progress: Dragon 1/35 Flakpanzer IV Ausf.G, HobbyBoss 1/48 Me 262

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Goffstown, NH
Posted by New Hampshire on Saturday, May 4, 2013 8:15 PM

Thanks for sharing stalkerfish!  Good to see I may not be as crazy as I thought. Big Smile  I actually watched a pretty informative video the other day by a woman who uses pigments to "paint" scale model horse sculptures.  She gave a run down on a whole slew of pigments.  Learned a lot (like, for example, I did not know that different types of pigments, like "oxides" and "ochres" have different opacities and such.)  I did also see this webpage that shows you how to make your own pastel powders using pigments, and they used talc powder as a carrier.

I think maybe I may give this a small scale test run to see how it goes.  If things work well perhaps it will be a good alternative to the expensive weathering pigments......

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Sunday, May 5, 2013 11:34 AM

It's funny--one of the guys giving a seminar at AMPS just last month gave the same spiel, basically, saying to use artists' pigments instead of the "high priced stuff". I can't imagine he was too popular with the vendors, lol.

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Denver
Posted by tankboy51 on Sunday, May 5, 2013 12:38 PM

I've been using dry pastel artists pigments for a long, long time.  It's real easy to mix shades.  I also have a set of various whites and blacks with all sorts of greys.  I have had one set for over 20 years.  I've not yet used it all up, and this is after hundreds of kits being built an weathered. They were inexpensive.  They work great and stay put well, and have given me great results.  Oddly enough, I just did a seminar at our IPMS club meeting on how to use them, and before that at a local IPMS contest.  They asked me, so some must like my results.  I have yet to use any of the other special sets.  Just a bit pricey, and I think, really the same.  BTW, where do they, MIG and others, get their raw materials?

Doug

They work good on aircraft and spacecraft as well.  Especially the Moon Bus from 2001.

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Sunday, May 5, 2013 1:46 PM

How do they behave in an airbrush?

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

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