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Sd. Kfz. 234/2 question

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  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Florida-West Central
Sd. Kfz. 234/2 question
Posted by Eagle90 on Friday, May 10, 2013 9:43 AM

I need a little help from you armor experts.  I'm doing a Puma for the Longest Day GB.  Bish sent me a link that talks briefly about the Puma and I read that it was indeed in the in the Normandy invasion time frame.  "The Sd Kfz 234/2 would see action in Normandy in three Panzer divisions. 2. Panzerdivision and Panzer Lehr Panzerdivision were both fully equipped with the “Puma” having a compliment of 26 vehicles".  "The Pumas first saw combat in Normandy with the Panzer Lehr division’s drive into the invasion zone on 8 June. A few days later on the night of 13 June Pumas of 2nd Panzer Division engaged elements of the US 26th infantry near Caumont which had inconclusive results".  

Now, I have briefly looked up pics of the Puma (on Yahoo only so far) and it appears most real pics of the Puma show it in a solid color of some sort.  A color photo showed it in a tan type color with a European setting in the background.  I thought a tan color would be in the desert.  All the models I saw had a huge variety of camo jobs.  My question is could someone tell me (or direct me to a good research site), that would have good color schemes for the Normandy Invasion time period and what type of unit numbers, shields, etc would have been used there also?

Thanks in advance for any help.  Armor is new to me, so I apologize for the ignorance.Embarrassed  Thanks again!


Eagle90


 

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by T26E4 on Friday, May 10, 2013 9:57 AM

In Feb '43, directives were issued that all AFVs were to be painted in a base color of dunkelgelb or dark yellow (actually a misnomer as it's really a tan color).  This was due to the dust that was commonplace in Russia and most of the European battlefields -- not because of any continued thoughts to fight in desert climes.  In the Normandy timeframe, camo colors of dark green or red-brown could be added at the local unit's discretion.  Later, some factories applied standard camo schemes.  Your Puma wouldn't fit in this option.  Modelwise, paint a basecoat of dunkelgeb and you're free to add camo as you see fit.  Best to mimic a photo or two if you have them.  Both the Italeri and DML kits give paint profiles, I believe.

I advise modelers to avoid the "hand of god" technique where a snaking camo line goes on for 50 feet all over the vehicle.  This defies logic as you should consider how an actual man, with a hose and airgun, would paint camo. 

While many companies make a dunkelgelb color, I mix my own.  I use about Tamiya, 2 parts buff, 1 part dark yellow, 1 part white.

Roy Chow 

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  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Florida-West Central
Posted by Eagle90 on Friday, May 10, 2013 10:05 AM

Thank you Mr. Chow!  Awesome advise.  I see what you mean about the "hand of God".  Makes sense.  

So after a base-coat of dunkelgelb, any camo would be dark green or red-brown correct?  Thanks again for the help!

Eagle90

 

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Gothenburg
Posted by JohanT on Friday, May 10, 2013 10:24 AM

Ditto what Mr. Chow just wrote about the DY - I think Mr. Bill has his own recipe as well using enamels.

Here is a link to some schemes...

www.militaryfactory.com/.../pic-detail.asp

Best Regards

Johan

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Friday, May 10, 2013 10:25 AM

I've seen a many  "squiggly" patterns of green and red-brown on Tigers, Panthers, and Pz IV's in the area. Volstad has a nice camo pattern on his Dragon Panther A Late box-art.

Here's my rendition on my Pz IV.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by T26E4 on Friday, May 10, 2013 10:29 AM

I'm not saying snaky, squiggly camo patterns did not exist.  They clearly did.  What I'm saying is the never-ending, continuous line is hard to see in actual photos. Modelers tend to do them way too much with the "hand of god" perspective, IMHO.  

Roy Chow 

Join AMPS!

http://www.amps-armor.org

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Friday, May 10, 2013 10:34 AM

I agree with you Roy, but it's hard to avoid it. I mean we are literally giants with a giant-size airbrush, thus it's much harder to avoid the technique you're pointing out.

One thing I've observed is that modelers are much more perfectionists when applying camo then the Germans. I've seen many photos of pretty half-arsed schemes applied. Many in just blobs.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Florida-West Central
Posted by Eagle90 on Friday, May 10, 2013 10:04 PM

JohanT

Ditto what Mr. Chow just wrote about the DY - I think Mr. Bill has his own recipe as well using enamels.

Here is a link to some schemes...

www.militaryfactory.com/.../pic-detail.asp

Best Regards

Johan

Johan, many thanks for the link!  Great site.  That will definitely help!

Eagle90

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Florida-West Central
Posted by Eagle90 on Friday, May 10, 2013 10:06 PM

tigerman

I've seen a many  "squiggly" patterns of green and red-brown on Tigers, Panthers, and Pz IV's in the area. Volstad has a nice camo pattern on his Dragon Panther A Late box-art.

Here's my rendition on my Pz IV.

Tigerman....nice armor!  Is that an AM machine gun on top?  Thanks for the pic!

Eagle90

 

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Florida-West Central
Posted by Eagle90 on Friday, May 10, 2013 10:09 PM

tigerman

I agree with you Roy, but it's hard to avoid it. I mean we are literally giants with a giant-size airbrush, thus it's much harder to avoid the technique you're pointing out.

One thing I've observed is that modelers are much more perfectionists when applying camo then the Germans. I've seen many photos of pretty half-arsed schemes applied. Many in just blobs.

COOL!  Can I use that as an excuse if my paint job in not good?! Stick out tongue  I'll claim perfect "in the field" applied paint!  Embarrassed

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Saturday, May 11, 2013 1:24 AM

Eagle90

tigerman

I've seen a many  "squiggly" patterns of green and red-brown on Tigers, Panthers, and Pz IV's in the area. Volstad has a nice camo pattern on his Dragon Panther A Late box-art.

Here's my rendition on my Pz IV.

Tigerman....nice armor!  Is that an AM machine gun on top?  Thanks for the pic!

Eagle90

Thanks Eagle. Nope, it's not AM. This is the 1/35 Tamiya Pz IV J. As usual, I understate the weathering. Just my style.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, May 11, 2013 1:37 AM

Nice Pz IV Eric, that's the kit I am doing for the D-Day GB. I hope I can come close to yours.

Eagle, one thing to remember about the German camo is that it was applied in the field. The vehicles left the factory in Dark Yellow. The other two colours were supplied to the troops as a paste. This could be thinned with anything to hand, water, petrol, oil etc. This of course would effect the final colour. It could be applied with an airbrush, but of course in the field these might not always work. So they could be applied with a brush, mop or anything else.

Eric is right in that we try to go for the perfect scheme. But often photo's show anything but. To the modeller, this just doesn't look right, I thin we are afraid it would like it had been painted by a 2 year old, even if it was 100% realistic. I think this is something we need to get over.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Saturday, May 11, 2013 1:54 AM

Bish

Nice Pz IV Eric, that's the kit I am doing for the D-Day GB. I hope I can come close to yours.

Eagle, one thing to remember about the German camo is that it was applied in the field. The vehicles left the factory in Dark Yellow. The other two colours were supplied to the troops as a paste. This could be thinned with anything to hand, water, petrol, oil etc. This of course would effect the final colour. It could be applied with an airbrush, but of course in the field these might not always work. So they could be applied with a brush, mop or anything else.

Eric is right in that we try to go for the perfect scheme. But often photo's show anything but. To the modeller, this just doesn't look right, I thin we are afraid it would like it had been painted by a 2 year old, even if it was 100% realistic. I think this is something we need to get over.

I think this is very true. Now the only time I argue against this point is when the modeler throws in a totally unrealistic camo scheme, i.e. big zig-zags, or big spots. One still needs to do his homework.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Saturday, May 11, 2013 4:40 AM

I have seen mentioned, particularly at missinglynx forums, the possible existence of 5 shades of this dunkelgelb.  I always thought the German war industry quite meticulous, so for them to mislabel the exact nature of a colour, well I guess anything is possible - but I haven't studied this colour in any great depth like some others have to question the translation of 'dark yellow'.

Some of the colour examples I have seen, again via the net, do appear tan.  From an artist's viewpoint, yellow can be darkened with brown which will give you tan, or with black which will give a result leaning towards green.  Then there is all the other combinations in between by using both brown and black in varying degrees.

btw Eric, exceptional build on that Mark IV Yes

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, May 11, 2013 4:57 AM

jack, I once read an account of a museum stripping back I think a 251 and they found up to 9 different shades of DY. I guess it would simply depend on which company mixed the particular batch of paint.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Florida-West Central
Posted by Eagle90 on Saturday, May 11, 2013 8:43 AM

Lots of great advice guys!  Thank you all.  Keep it coming.  Where would be the best place to see what unit numbers and/or any other things are on the vehicle?  Looks like they kept it simple with numbers, but I see a few with little bits of "art" on them.  Thanks again everyone!  

Eagle90

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, May 11, 2013 8:52 AM

In most cases numbers were 3 digits. reading from right to left they were fro Company, Platoon, Vehicle. In some cases, such as Recce Platoons, there may only be two digits.

The vehicle art is usually Div insignia, though in some cases individual art work was applied.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Saturday, May 11, 2013 1:52 PM

On the question of mixing your own DY, it all depends on what you intend to do with the finish after painting. Since weathering (generally speaking) tends to darken a finish, I always lighten my DY to compensate. I use Model Master enamels for my builds and create a 50/50 mix of Panzer Dunkelgelb and Light Gray that works very well as a starting point IMHO. HTH!

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Florida-West Central
Posted by Eagle90 on Saturday, May 11, 2013 3:18 PM

wbill76

On the question of mixing your own DY, it all depends on what you intend to do with the finish after painting. Since weathering (generally speaking) tends to darken a finish, I always lighten my DY to compensate. I use Model Master enamels for my builds and create a 50/50 mix of Panzer Dunkelgelb and Light Gray that works very well as a starting point IMHO. HTH!

Thanks Bill.  This being a first for me, ALL advice is welcomed.  I'm planning a camo over the dunkelgelb base-coat, so this will definately help.  Thanks again!

Eagle90

 

 

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