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Tamiya M48A3 Patton

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  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by flankermark on Wednesday, July 3, 2013 10:31 PM

i thought i was looking at my work area when i saw the first photo, ihave more cars trucks and a c than iknow what to do with. now i got to start building armor. thanks

  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Southern New Jersey
Posted by troublemaker66 on Wednesday, July 3, 2013 9:11 PM

I think A/C are easier to paint....they are pretty streamlined, not alot of stuff sticking out on a plane. I usually do all my cammo free hand, couldn`t imagine trying to mask off some of these armor kits...lol.

Len Pytlewski

  • Member since
    March 2013
  • From: Puebla, Mexico
Posted by garzonh on Wednesday, July 3, 2013 7:58 PM

Curious, im more an armor guy since I think is tougher to paint aircraft, specially since they tend to have more complex paint schemes camouflages.

Any way, the dot filtering is looking good.

i have not tried it myself since it will require buying more paint, tools,...my wife is already hanging from the ceiling from all I have bought in the past two months....

Saludos!

  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Southern New Jersey
Posted by troublemaker66 on Wednesday, July 3, 2013 2:08 PM

stikpusher

Nice job! I see you did yours as a Marine Corps tank. It came out quite nice! Whats's next?

Thanks Stik!  I just started an Academy Panther last night....looks like the road wheels are going to be the trickiest part of that kit. I will start a new thread tonight.

I`m giving credit to World of Tanks for my recent interest in all things armored. I belong to a "clan" and do tournaments against other clans...lots of fun. The Patton and Panther are both in the game, along with tons of real and prototype tanks.

Len

Len Pytlewski

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, July 3, 2013 1:54 PM

Nice job! I see you did yours as a Marine Corps tank. It came out quite nice! Whats's next?

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Southern New Jersey
Posted by troublemaker66 on Wednesday, July 3, 2013 1:11 PM

Well, just about finished it up. Need to hunt down the tubing that goes from the connector on the top of the turret to the infra-red light....think the wifey might`ve tossed it by accident...Sad. Here are a few pics...with my crappy camera...

Thanks for looking! All comments are welcome.

Len

Len Pytlewski

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Tuesday, July 2, 2013 4:12 PM

Looks great so far,makes me want to break out my new Dragon M48

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, June 27, 2013 2:12 PM

troublemaker66

stikpusher

It is looking good so far, but the OD used on Vietnam era US Army armor was VERY dark, not the lighter 34087 shade like you see on the helicopters. Marine Corps armor used a different Dark Green.

Hey Stik! 

I was using the color call-outs in the instructions plus, looking at the box art and finished model pics on the lid. The Tamiya OD is very dark and I used it as the base coat but tried shooting the lighter shade into the center of all the horizontal flat surfaces , tool box lids, turret top, etc. for  a fading effect...maybe overdone ? I can see the dark green as it sits on my bench but you know the deal with cameras...Wink 

I`m not big on research but I do some when the mood hits me. I know you`re good at it and appreciate the info. I picked up an M60A2 and will use this info when I get to it!

Thanks again,

Len

No worries there. I just am a big fan of OD and all its' variety. I hardly find it boring myself. Here is a great color photo to get an idea of the shade in use at that time. Very dark and rich

here are a few shots that will give you ideas for weathering the tracks/suspension

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Southern New Jersey
Posted by troublemaker66 on Thursday, June 27, 2013 1:36 PM

Back on topic....any advice you could send my way for the tracks...painting and weathering, would be a great help. I have all the road wheels and return rollers done and on the tank, just need to find the best way to paint the tracks and weather the wheels ,etc. The tracks are one piece vinyl.

Thanks in advance....

Len

Len Pytlewski

  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Southern New Jersey
Posted by troublemaker66 on Thursday, June 27, 2013 1:04 PM

On a side note...just picked up an M26 Armored Tank Recovery Vehicle from Tamiya for $20! Found it in a small stash of kits in a memorabilia / toystore. Not sure what this kit goes for but the box is pretty heavy.....Yes

Len Pytlewski

  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Southern New Jersey
Posted by troublemaker66 on Thursday, June 27, 2013 1:00 PM

the doog

Man, I love it. I did a gonzo build of these a year ago and it was a great kit; brought back lot of memories of the first Monogram "Patton" that I ever built.

I love the idea that you went all out on the shading/oil dot filters thing, even though you're not a big armor modeler. Guts, baby, it takes guts! YesStick out tongue

LOL! Thanks Doog....I`ve had the old saying "more guts than brains" applied to me a few times in my 47 years , but, never in the modeling realm...also been accused of sitting on my brains a few times too...Wink

Len Pytlewski

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Thursday, June 27, 2013 9:34 AM

Man, I love it. I did a gonzo build of these a year ago and it was a great kit; brought back lot of memories of the first Monogram "Patton" that I ever built.

I love the idea that you went all out on the shading/oil dot filters thing, even though you're not a big armor modeler. Guts, baby, it takes guts! YesStick out tongue

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, June 27, 2013 8:03 AM

FlyItLikeYouStoleIt

Looks freakin outstanding, man! I think your color is perfectly appropriate for the era. Varying conditions resulted in varying states of fading and you never know how the individual vehicle's paint is going to respond to it's environment. And hell, if you finish that off with a black wash and a little flat silver or steel drybrushing, it'll be superb!

 
Agree 100%. A dark wash will darken the tone and the color will vary with the exposure to the elements, etc. Looks very good to me!Beer Like I said, no biggie with the decals, add them then seal them and to the dots. 

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Southern New Jersey
Posted by troublemaker66 on Thursday, June 27, 2013 5:08 AM

FlyItLikeYouStoleIt

Looks freakin outstanding, man! I think your color is perfectly appropriate for the era. Varying conditions resulted in varying states of fading and you never know how the individual vehicle's paint is going to respond to it's environment. And hell, if you finish that off with a black wash and a little flat silver or steel drybrushing, it'll be superb!

Thanks Bill! Like I said, I was using the box top for reference and it looked much lighter than the Tamiya OD. I`m going to run with everyone`s advice and see what happens...hope I don`t mess it up...Tongue Tied

I`ll do the decals tonight and maybe fix the dot filter. I`ll post pics when done.

Thanks again Bill,

Len

Len Pytlewski

  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Southern New Jersey
Posted by troublemaker66 on Thursday, June 27, 2013 5:03 AM

stikpusher

It is looking good so far, but the OD used on Vietnam era US Army armor was VERY dark, not the lighter 34087 shade like you see on the helicopters. Marine Corps armor used a different Dark Green.

Hey Stik! 

I was using the color call-outs in the instructions plus, looking at the box art and finished model pics on the lid. The Tamiya OD is very dark and I used it as the base coat but tried shooting the lighter shade into the center of all the horizontal flat surfaces , tool box lids, turret top, etc. for  a fading effect...maybe overdone ? I can see the dark green as it sits on my bench but you know the deal with cameras...Wink 

I`m not big on research but I do some when the mood hits me. I know you`re good at it and appreciate the info. I picked up an M60A2 and will use this info when I get to it!

Thanks again,

Len

Len Pytlewski

  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Southern New Jersey
Posted by troublemaker66 on Thursday, June 27, 2013 4:52 AM

plastickjunkie

It looks pretty good. Beer You have broken down the boring monotone OD shade adding some depth. Looks like you did the dot filters over gloss? I prefer doing the dot filters over flat paint so it has more 'bite' into the top coat. I also do the decals first then the dot filters, that way the decals match the modulation. No biggie as you can re do the dots over the decal areas to tie things together. After some washes you can also dry brush the OD lightened a shade or two over the high areas to make details pop.

Yes...I sprayed the whole thing with future in preparation for weathering and decals...but forgot to put the decals on before the dot filter.....Bang Head. I know it`s not a big deal but kinda like the way it looks and don`t want to screw it up. I`ll put the decals on it, hit it with some Dullcote and try the dots again. Thanks for the info and kind words!

Len

Len Pytlewski

  • Member since
    April 2013
  • From: Minnesota City, Minnesota, U.S.A.
Posted by FlyItLikeYouStoleIt on Wednesday, June 26, 2013 11:11 PM

Looks freakin outstanding, man! I think your color is perfectly appropriate for the era. Varying conditions resulted in varying states of fading and you never know how the individual vehicle's paint is going to respond to it's environment. And hell, if you finish that off with a black wash and a little flat silver or steel drybrushing, it'll be superb!

Bill.

On the bench:  Lindberg 1/32 scale 1934 Ford Coupe and a few rescue projects.

In queue:  Tamiya 1/35 Quad Tractor or a scratch build project.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, June 26, 2013 10:18 PM

It is looking good so far, but the OD used on Vietnam era US Army armor was VERY dark, not the lighter 34087 shade like you see on the helicopters. Marine Corps armor used a different Dark Green.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Wednesday, June 26, 2013 8:51 PM

It looks pretty good. Beer You have broken down the boring monotone OD shade adding some depth. Looks like you did the dot filters over gloss? I prefer doing the dot filters over flat paint so it has more 'bite' into the top coat. I also do the decals first then the dot filters, that way the decals match the modulation. No biggie as you can re do the dots over the decal areas to tie things together. After some washes you can also dry brush the OD lightened a shade or two over the high areas to make details pop.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Southern New Jersey
Tamiya M48A3 Patton
Posted by troublemaker66 on Wednesday, June 26, 2013 8:34 PM

Hi All,

Started this build about a month ago and been plodding along, getting a little done every night. 

This is my 2nd armor kit ever...the 1st was a Tamiya T-34-85, built 13 years ago. Here are a few WIP pics...

Another 1st for me is trying a dot filter. I used some artist oils...red, yellow ,orange, lt green and blue. Seemed simple enough and surprisingly, it was. I think it`s decent for a "first time" and know I need a lot more practice too...Big Smile Here are a few close up shots of the turret`s dot filter attempt...

What do you think?

I painted the entire tank Tamiya Olive Drab, which was way too dark to me,so I lightened it with some yellow. I then sprayed center areas and high spots with the lightened OD to simulate a little fading.

I`m predominately an aircraft modeler, and painting armor seems a bit more challenging to me than your average A/C. ..maybe because I`m still trying to figure out how to go about painting armor...know what I mean??

Anyway, thanks for looking...comments/ tips are welcome!

Len

Len Pytlewski

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