edited by author (what was I smoking?)

One method is to drill small holes in the hull sides and use pins inserted from the inside of the hull (clip them to the right length) in a few key spots to hold down the track. Super glue the heads of the pins inside the hull or use 5 minute epoxy to hold them in place.

Another method is to use a needle and thread to loop around a road wheel center and through the upper run of the track in a couple of spots. Tie off the thread and it will hold the track down too. Use black or that semi-clear brown hemline thread.

The clear coat method seems the easiest. Does a clear coat really make a vinyl track rigid?

   Cut some foam earplugs in half and wedge 'em between the sponsons and the track surface - one side at a time. Turn on a 1200 watt blow dryer 10 to 15 inches away from the track and watch VERY CLOSELY. When finished with that side put it in the freezer for a couple of hours to set them. When you want to take the earplugs out, just let them warm to room temperature before trying to remove them - and then do the other side.

 Been doing models a long, long time. Always works fine for me.

 Be sure to pay attention to any small delicate details so as not to inadvertently warp/distort them while watching the tracks.    

Not likely... those tracks will likely flake off paint before it gets rigid enough to stay in place

Clear coat method probably won't work on the REALLY rubbery vinyl stuff. Disastermaster's blow dryer / freezer method would work well with any of the rubbery tracks. Just be EXTREMELY mindful of the surrounding parts with that blow dryer!

I won't blow my models with a hair dryer. So the thread method seems like the way to go.

I may experiment with that technique on an old Tamiya SU-85. I'll just build up the lower hull and see what happens.

One method is to drill small holes in the hull sides and use pins inserted from the inside of the hull (clip them to the right length) in a few key spots to hold down the track. Super glue the heads of the pins inside the hull or use 5 minute epoxy to hold them in place. Another method is to use a needle and thread to loop around a road wheel center and through the upper run of the track in a couple of spots. Tie off the thread and it will hold the track down too. Use black or that semi-clear brown hemline thread.

i have used both and also one strand of speaker wire instead of thread. any track with holes near the center guides can use the thread method. for the pins i also superglue a plastic "platfrom" inside the hull so i can glue the pin to it

Surprised no-one has mentioned aftermarket plastic or Fruil metal tracks yet! 

Not my Idea, but this is as old as the hills: 

Another option would be to assemble the wheels on the side, then trace the outline of said wheels & transfer this to eg, thin balsa wood.

Trace the intended curve of the track (front return roller to drive sprocket) 

Cut one of: to sandwich the guide horns between & pin through the tracks to conform to the desired curve.

Heat gently, with hair dryer or near-boiling water until it conforms, then allow to cool.

This also works for Shermans, etc., cut one of: the thickness of the road wheels for those tracks with outside guide horns, but with a straight top-run as the Shermie has taut 'live' track.

I did this for the Italeri tracks on the Sherman & M32 as the track supplied in the box was too thick & springy, would bend the suspension like a banana, that only a ridiculous amount of weight would solve.

HobbyTrax produce aluminium track assembly guides .

I've had a bit of luck with epoxy resin and then wedges to keep pressure on the top of the tracks. It takes a while to dry but pretty much sticks anything.

If I use the kit provided vinyl tracks I always use the thread if the vehicle has no support rollers and the pins if it does. I've found that some CA glues don't adhere well to the vinyl.

I've always used the pin method Rob describes before but the heat and cool method DM posted has piqued my curiosity. How long do you keep the hair dryer on the model and how do you know when you've heated it enough? Like some of the guys here I'm a little afraid I'd go overboard and melt the model.  

Gamera

I've always used the pin method Rob describes before but the heat and cool method DM posted has piqued my curiosity. How long do you keep the hair dryer on the model and how do you know when you've heated it enough? Like some of the guys here I'm a little afraid I'd go overboard and melt the model.  

      Is THIS too much science?

This sounds a bit lengthy but it doesn't take as much time as wheeling out the sewing machine

  Place the model on a flat surface. This method demands patience and attention.

 Be sure to especially watch the detailed areas of the tracks (if it gets too hot this and the thinnest areas will be the first area to deform) and all surrounding areas near the tracks.

 I only use flat tip tweezers like this for insertion (no preference for extraction).

No particular earplugs required.

1. Compress a earplug vertically.

2. Place it in the tweezers.

3. Insert in the appropriate area.

4. Hold plug in place and slide out the tweezers

5. Repeat for each sag.

6. After all are inserted, heat them up.

"How long do you keep the hair dryer on the model....."

Brace your knees as they may tend to knock. Don't worry, it's not like you're setting fire to the house.

 You will know how long to heat 'em because you will be able to see the tracks begin to sag slightly since the sponge earplugs are constantly trying to expand to their original configuration.... just like they do in your ears. As the tracks warm up, the plugs are still expanding. Here's where you watch the track detail and the guide horns for distortion. When the tracks soften, they are conforming. That's the reason I use the earplugs - you won't get the same results or visual cue using anything else.

The most important thing you have to do is pay attention (and heat them warm enough).

 Patience......

       less is more (you can always add more).

 So if the area between the sponson and the track is small, cut them down vertically leaving enough for them to expand back to. If the said area is larger use the full height.

 This even works with individual track links, just measure and add a extra link or two while assembling.

 Except for small details you won't melt the model if you constantly place your hand at the same distance (in front or beside the subject, not behind it) and use that to gauge your distance from it since that's the only way you can adjust the heat too.

 If done right (without any visible means of deprimere) people will ask, 

                      "How'd 'ya do that?"

......And then you tell them - and they just shake their head with a dazed look...... 

Hope this explains it better to you.

Gotta go, past time for the ......

Chrisk-k

The clear coat method seems the easiest. Does a clear coat really make a vinyl track rigid?

That heat-sagging method would also scare me unless you really practiced it and had a real "feel" for the kit's particulars regarding the tracks. Also, I'd wonder how much distortion in the tread you would get?

This kit's tracks are particularly springy and flake paint something fierce; I would recommend you go with the pins in he hull method, or better yet, go with an aftermarket indy link set. Don't waste your money on Friuls, you can get some plastic or resin links cheaper than that.

Jon_a_its

Surprised no-one has mentioned aftermarket plastic or Fruil metal tracks yet! 

Fruils on a Tamiya T-34 would be akin to putting Dubs on a Yugo.

Maquette used to market some indy link tracks for T-34s that are reasonably priced for the Tamiya kit. The AFV indy link tracks are about as high end as one should go for this kit.

Rob Gronovius

Jon_a_its

Surprised no-one has mentioned aftermarket plastic or Fruil metal tracks yet! 

Fruils on a Tamiya T-34 would be akin to putting Dubs on a Yugo.

Take it easy on Yugo . I used to drive one....

Thanks DM!

Excellent explanation, things are a lot clearer now. I don't have anything on the bench with rubber band style tracks right now but I'll have to dig an old model out and try this when I do.

PS: Nope, you can never ever ever have TOO MUCH SCIENCE!!!  

(well according to Dr. Paul Armstrong you can't!) 

The invisible vinyl thread (from Walmart, Hobby Lobby, any fabric shop, Target) looped over the track and tucked into the road wheels works every time. The other method would be to go with link track.

castelnuovo

Rob Gronovius

Jon_a_its

Surprised no-one has mentioned aftermarket plastic or Fruil metal tracks yet! 

Fruils on a Tamiya T-34 would be akin to putting Dubs on a Yugo.

Take it easy on Yugo . I used to drive one....

Same difference; why spend $45-50 or more on Fruils for a 40 year old kit worth $10-15 when that same amount of money could buy the top of the line T-34 model with aluminum gun tube and photo etch that didn't need new tracks?

That's my point.

WOW, how many methods.

In fact, Im also tryring to do the same on my JS-3. Using the tread "sewing" it to thr retun rollers, wouldn't that make the track to stay close to the rollers but go up in between spaces?

I will experiment with several approaches, will see.

Ahem....  Link   & Oh dear... 

Jon_a_its

Ahem....  Link   & Oh dear... 

It sends me to some Autotunning cars thread???

garzonh

WOW, how many methods.

In fact, Im also tryring to do the same on my JS-3. Using the tread "sewing" it to thr retun rollers, wouldn't that make the track to stay close to the rollers but go up in between spaces?

I will experiment with several approaches, will see.

I am having the same problem with my SU-100 witch has the same tracks. I am planing on using some double faced tape to attach them to the wheels. The sagging wont be great but I can't resolve myself (or my wallet) to pay for aftermarket tracks on this kit. I guess I will also had a lot of mud or snow to hide the flaws of the sagging. The other methods seems kindda tedious for a noob like me.

plasticjunkie

The invisible vinyl thread (from Walmart, Hobby Lobby, any fabric shop, Target) looped over the track and tucked into the road wheels works every time. The other method would be to go with link track.