Turpentine & Tamiya Thin Cement

Not me.

 But I HAVE had problems using mineral spirits with artist tube oil paints. Without fail, it causes the plastic to become brittle and structurally deficit. 

Every model I have used mineral spirits on eventually disintegrated in certain areas.........

 In my opinion, turpenoid (not turpentine it's nasty) is the very best way to go when creating oil washes.

Use the BLUE can only - never the green one.

 I use only laquer thinner for gluing parts (or superglue when superglue is the sensible alternative) so I have no knowledge of Tamiya glues.

I use both Tamiya cement and oil washes and never had any problems so far. I use odorless thinner for the washes...

I sometimes use just plain lighter fuel for my washes (when I'm out of thinner) and never had issues with that stuff either.

Yes,I have had an enamel wash and AK Washes begin to dissolve apart my Magic Tracks,I apply the wash very sparingly,not really slopping it on,or will switch to acrylic wash.

Tamiya cement for me and ONLY Turpenoid for washes. I'd rather use that and artist oils instead of the pre-mixed. I've never had an issue with loosening of parts or any sort of damage with this combo.  

If you use a hair dryer to dry your track washes, you'll have less of a chance of them breaking apart. I've had them break apart after enamel washes too. It's maddening.

Tamiya extra-thin cement is a solvent type cement which works by melting the mating surfaces together. In real terms, there is nothing left behind by the cement, besides the original plastic, to be dissolved by another solvent.

However, the bonds between the parts can be affected by contamination (by paint/grease etc), or simply may not be very strong due to insufficient cement, lack of penetration by the cement or lack of surface area between the mating parts. Solvents which can affect the original styrene can weaken the bonds by finding these weak spots.