After acrylics?

The acrylics act as a barrier when using solvent type washes. If using a water based wash you need a enamel barrier coat. I make my own washes out of artists oils and Pure Gum Spirits Turpentine from Lowes or Home Depot and I get the same effect as in those expensive washes in the small bottles for tons of less $.

I make my oil washes with Odorless mineral spirits and the basic Testors paints in weathering colors ( rubber, black, rust, etc) since they're only $1.50 a bottle.  I always lay down a coat of Future because it protects the surface and makes wiping away any overwash easier its also easier to do streaking effects on a gloss surface like for rust or grease.  And it gives a nice surface for the decals as well.  

I make my oil washes by mixing Mona Lisa Odorless Paint Thinner (i.e., mineral spirits) and W&N or MIG oil paints.  I've applied oil washes directly over Tamiya acrylics. ZERO PROBLEM.

Maybe...try and find out.  I've heard AK products are hot, in that they will affect paints they're used on.  Also, why pay the price for pre-made washes when you can make the exact same thing yourself for about 25 cents v. 5 dollars?  

Would AK washes  work over Tamiya paints as a  weathering  wash without  a protective coat?

Thanks,

Leddy

"Make sure you let your blob of oil paint sit on a piece of cardboard for a while in order to get rid of the linseed oil carrier before mixing your wash or filter"

you learn something every day!! thanks!!

+1 for odourless thinners, i use normal stuff once (you will only do it once, believe me!!) and it ruined the paintwork

I've used oils thinned with "odourless solvent" directly over Tamiya acrylic without any issues.

I don't use any clear coats.  Base coat with my Tamiya's, add decals, coat generously with micro sol in multiple applications.  This pretty much melts the decals right onto the matte base coat.  I almost never have any silvering problems.  I then do my oil washes and filters using Oderless Mineral Spirits.  Never had a problem with it eating the base coat, decals, nor the washes migrating underneath the decals.  If I were to use enamel thinners and enamel paints for washes (which I don't) THEN I might consider a clearcoat. 

Brian

I always do filters and washes after all markings are applied to ensure they get weathering treatment also.  After paint I seal with Vallejo clear gloss, apply markings, then apply Vallejo clear satin.  I use oil paints for washes and filters and mix with turpenoid, which is very low odor.  Make sure you let your blob of oil paint sit on a piece of cardboard for a while in order to get rid of the linseed oil carrier before mixing your wash or filter.  HTH.

MBR