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The M110A2 is the latest version with double muzzle brake, the earlier A1 version had a plain muzzle. The M110A2s were made from refitted M110s or M107 175mm SP Guns (Hunnicutt).
The M110 first entered service with the US Army in 1963. It has been used in the Vietnam War by the United States Army, and in Operation Desert Shield and Operation Desert Storm by the U.S. & British Army. M110s were still in service with the (USAR), and running fire missions as late as the summer of 1994.
At the end of the Cold War under U.S. Division Plan 86, all armored and mechanized infantry divisions included a battalion of heavy artillery that included two batteries of M110A2 8" SP howitzers with 6 guns each for a total of 12 guns, plus one battery of nine MLRS rocket artillery.
The gun system has been retired from US Army service; howitzers above 155 mm caliber are no longer effective as technology has closed the range and firepower gap, and heavier weapon systems require more resources to operate. Gun barrels from retired M110s were initially used as the outer casing in the manufacture of the GBU-28 bunker buster bomb.
Here is #1 gun, A Battery 2 Battalion 142nd Field Artillery during Operation Desert Storm.
The Kit The kit is an oldie but goodie, the Italeri kit # 291. Along with the kit I will be using Eduard photo etch set for the M110A2, the Barrel Store metal barrel for the M110A2 and for the T132E1 tracks I will be using the Spade Ace metal individual links. I also will be using numerous other small items from the parts box. I will be trying to recreate the paint finish seen in the ODS vehicles. So I will be painting the M110A2 with NATO Green. The using AK Chipping Solution will paint using Testors Desert Storm Sand and the chip down to the NATO Green. As almost all ODS vehicles arrive in NTO Green or NATO tricolor and then were painted in country with a non military sand paint that was not particularly good. Most ODS vehicle would shed their paint like a snake sheds skin. The Build The kit is relatively simple but like older kits, they are loaded with pin marks, bad seams and sink marks. The first two tasks are to assemble the basic hull and road wheels. With the hull assembled, the main seams on the side panels and rear deck seam need a bunch of work. Here is the basic hull with the seams complete and some of the PE screens in place. While liquid putty is drying, I jumped to barrel and carriage assembly. Again both require a large amount of TLC with putty. Here is the rear of the barrel and barrel sled. You can see the seam putty work. Here is the upper carriage with putty work. After all the putty work was complete on the hull, I worked through with the PE upgrades and finished up getting the hull ready for the paint booth. Here is a view from the rear That’s it for now. Next up is to assemble the barrel and begin painting the hull. Also finish assembly of the rear spade and the upper carriage. As always if you have any comments, please feel free to drop in. Rounds Complete!!
The Kit
The kit is an oldie but goodie, the Italeri kit # 291.
Along with the kit I will be using Eduard photo etch set for the M110A2, the Barrel Store metal barrel for the M110A2 and for the T132E1 tracks I will be using the Spade Ace metal individual links. I also will be using numerous other small items from the parts box. I will be trying to recreate the paint finish seen in the ODS vehicles. So I will be painting the M110A2 with NATO Green. The using AK Chipping Solution will paint using Testors Desert Storm Sand and the chip down to the NATO Green. As almost all ODS vehicles arrive in NTO Green or NATO tricolor and then were painted in country with a non military sand paint that was not particularly good. Most ODS vehicle would shed their paint like a snake sheds skin. The Build The kit is relatively simple but like older kits, they are loaded with pin marks, bad seams and sink marks. The first two tasks are to assemble the basic hull and road wheels. With the hull assembled, the main seams on the side panels and rear deck seam need a bunch of work. Here is the basic hull with the seams complete and some of the PE screens in place. While liquid putty is drying, I jumped to barrel and carriage assembly. Again both require a large amount of TLC with putty. Here is the rear of the barrel and barrel sled. You can see the seam putty work. Here is the upper carriage with putty work. After all the putty work was complete on the hull, I worked through with the PE upgrades and finished up getting the hull ready for the paint booth. Here is a view from the rear That’s it for now. Next up is to assemble the barrel and begin painting the hull. Also finish assembly of the rear spade and the upper carriage. As always if you have any comments, please feel free to drop in. Rounds Complete!!
Along with the kit I will be using Eduard photo etch set for the M110A2, the Barrel Store metal barrel for the M110A2 and for the T132E1 tracks I will be using the Spade Ace metal individual links. I also will be using numerous other small items from the parts box.
I will be trying to recreate the paint finish seen in the ODS vehicles. So I will be painting the M110A2 with NATO Green. The using AK Chipping Solution will paint using Testors Desert Storm Sand and the chip down to the NATO Green. As almost all ODS vehicles arrive in NTO Green or NATO tricolor and then were painted in country with a non military sand paint that was not particularly good. Most ODS vehicle would shed their paint like a snake sheds skin.
The Build
The kit is relatively simple but like older kits, they are loaded with pin marks, bad seams and sink marks. The first two tasks are to assemble the basic hull and road wheels. With the hull assembled, the main seams on the side panels and rear deck seam need a bunch of work. Here is the basic hull with the seams complete and some of the PE screens in place.
While liquid putty is drying, I jumped to barrel and carriage assembly. Again both require a large amount of TLC with putty. Here is the rear of the barrel and barrel sled. You can see the seam putty work. Here is the upper carriage with putty work. After all the putty work was complete on the hull, I worked through with the PE upgrades and finished up getting the hull ready for the paint booth. Here is a view from the rear That’s it for now. Next up is to assemble the barrel and begin painting the hull. Also finish assembly of the rear spade and the upper carriage. As always if you have any comments, please feel free to drop in. Rounds Complete!!
While liquid putty is drying, I jumped to barrel and carriage assembly. Again both require a large amount of TLC with putty. Here is the rear of the barrel and barrel sled. You can see the seam putty work.
Here is the upper carriage with putty work. After all the putty work was complete on the hull, I worked through with the PE upgrades and finished up getting the hull ready for the paint booth. Here is a view from the rear That’s it for now. Next up is to assemble the barrel and begin painting the hull. Also finish assembly of the rear spade and the upper carriage. As always if you have any comments, please feel free to drop in. Rounds Complete!!
Here is the upper carriage with putty work.
After all the putty work was complete on the hull, I worked through with the PE upgrades and finished up getting the hull ready for the paint booth. Here is a view from the rear That’s it for now. Next up is to assemble the barrel and begin painting the hull. Also finish assembly of the rear spade and the upper carriage. As always if you have any comments, please feel free to drop in. Rounds Complete!!
After all the putty work was complete on the hull, I worked through with the PE upgrades and finished up getting the hull ready for the paint booth.
Here is a view from the rear That’s it for now. Next up is to assemble the barrel and begin painting the hull. Also finish assembly of the rear spade and the upper carriage. As always if you have any comments, please feel free to drop in. Rounds Complete!!
Here is a view from the rear
That’s it for now. Next up is to assemble the barrel and begin painting the hull. Also finish assembly of the rear spade and the upper carriage. As always if you have any comments, please feel free to drop in. Rounds Complete!!
That’s it for now. Next up is to assemble the barrel and begin painting the hull. Also finish assembly of the rear spade and the upper carriage.
"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."
Very nice so far Mike. I too have one that I plan on making into an ODS M110A2 as well.
Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!
Check out my Gallery: https://app.photobucket.com/u/HeavyArty
"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell
I just finished the same kit. It was my first Italeri kit, nice details throughout. I removed the muzzle brake and cut the barrel down to replicate the M110 used during Vietnam. After I finished it I made a diorama with it and gave it to friend who was a forward observer in an artillery unit. Would like to see photos your progress.
ooooh this is gonna be exciting, I'll be watching closely, everything looks great so far.
-Josiah
Gino - Thanks for the peek. Here is one of the few times we will get a chance to do the "German" thing.... chipping.... should be fun
Joe - The model is a nice kit and it great that you passed it on to an FO. Come along for the ride and you will see plenty of photos and info.
Josiah - Nice to have you along for the ride.
Rounds Complete!!
Mike,
I have this kit and I am saving it for the start and finish of my M577. I will be following your build of this 8" M110 closely to help in the building of my own.
Regards,
Earl
Joe,
Do you have a photo of your completed M110? The one which I will be building will also have the type used during the "Cold War" in Europe.
Thanks,
Earl - Nice to have you watching
Mike, I always take great pleasure following your builds and I also learn a lot. Keep it coming.
Lee
I'm from the government and I'm here to help.
Lee - Always great to have you stop by. Glad you are learning something from my blogs... I will keep it coming.
Thanks Redleg, I knew ODS was a managerie of equipment new and old, but wow.I jusr told my wife my stash was complete, NUTS! LOL . I'll check in again?
we're modelers it's what we do
Looking good so far, Mike! I'll try to follow, but I"m on the road now as of Thursday--next stop somewhere up in Detroit, I think? It's hard to follow stuff when you're on a bus most of the day. :)
I'll be impressed if you make it to the end of this build without breaking the back off that darned seat at the back! I must have broken that thing of half a dozen times before I made a new mount using brass pins!
Where are you headed to Karl I live around 6 or 7 hours north of Detroit.
On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6
The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15 http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/
Armornut - No problem...you are never finished with the stash!!
Karl - Thanks for the peek, yea the seat back is a PITA. Have one $%&* already. Enjoy the road as best you can.
Working on some more sub-assemblies, the first is the recoil spade. I still have to put on the spare tracks and will keep it separated until most of the painting is completed to make things easier.
Also assembled is the metal barrel to the slide section, also the muzzle brake on the barrel.
I also assembled all the road wheels. I painted them first with my rubber mix of 50/50 Flat and NATO Black. After the tire black dried, the rims were painted with NATO Green as the base color.
The hull assembly also received the base coat of NATO Green.
The different pistons for the equilibrators, recoil spade lifts and recoil pistons were base coated in black and then painted Alclad Dark Aluminum.
Time to assemble the tracks during the game. Enjoy
As always if you have any comments, please feel free to drop in.
Another build I have to watch-
redleg12 The different pistons for the equilibrators, recoil spade lifts and recoil pistons were base coated in black and then painted Alclad Dark Aluminum. As always if you have any comments, please feel free to drop in. Rounds Complete!!
Steve
Building the perfect model---just not quite yet
Steve - Great to have you watching
Hey Mike, those recuperators look smokin'! The whole build is looking pretty good so far.
I recently took these great photos of a rusted blade if you need some inspiration for painting that blade!
Karl - Thanks for the help. The recoil spade is always a mess. It will have to be three shades with sand down to NATO Green and metal/rust in places. It will be fun.
Mike, I'm always happy to help if I can!
Just a thought--if you've never tried the "Hair Spray" method, this spade would be a perfect candidate for a test-mule. Spray a dark brown, HS it, spray a second light rust over that and degrade it and weather it with some more rust straeaks and tonal variations. SEAL IT WELL, add more HS, spray your base colors and degrade that, showing the rust underneath. Then you can drybush and paint on your metallic chips and worn areas. Use enamel for your first rust color, acrylic for anything that would be on top of a HS layer. Seal whatever you degrade before going to the next step.
Good luck with it if you decide to go that route! It might be very cool?
Hello Mike!
Noticed your latest fire mission a bit late, but now I'm watching! Good luck with your build and have a nice day
Paweł
All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!
www.vietnam.net.pl
Karl - I will be using a modified version of the hairspray on most of the model. The NATO Green is the undercoat and ODS Sand the top color. The ODS vehicles were painted in country with non military paint and so many vehicles BADLY chipped. On the blade I would have both rust and green colors showing through the sand. As always thanks for the help. Especially on one of the few times I can use "chipping"
Pawel - Always a pleasure to have you stop by the firing point.
Sounds good, Mike! I'll try to check in from the road when I get a decent internet connection! :)
Armornut,
Little did I realize when I got back into this hobby after 50 years that I would be so impressed by the armor and battleship models that are available that I would start a "stash". Am I becoming obsessed by the need to purchase models and aftermarket details almost on a weekly basis? Am I losing my mind or is this common in this hobby? Whatever it is, I am enjoying it and the help that is quite apparent from the fine folks in the Forum.
Once again, this is great info and inspiration for when I start my own M110. Once again,good job!!
Earl - Almost everyone starts a stash. It is a hobby into itself. If you enjoy it....do it. Glad I am inspiring you..
You are definitely an inspiration. I don't know if I could ever get to be as good as you are, but you give me hope that I can improve with every model that I build. You must be very busy with the M110, I have the same kit and I am saving your build as a reference for building mine.
On the way over.
Earl - Thanks for the kind words. As for skills, we all learn more with every build, like EOD there is no expert. That is the great purpose of this forum to learn, teach and share. Just keep trying and building but most of all, enjoy and have fun. That is the key for the hobby.
This week’s progress includes the tracks. Worked on them during the Super Bowl and finished up later this week. Here are 4 sets of 36 links. On side should have 74 or 75 links, thus two of these sets plus a couple of loose links, which will be added to fit. At 36 links it makes it easier to work with for finishing in my opinion.
Here is the last assemble, the gun upper carriage. The last few details and filling work completed. Here is a closer view. You can see my use of Archer surface details welding lines. Here is the recoil spade. It has been base painted with NATO Green and the AK Light Rust wash to give a rust bleed look near the bottom. That’s it for now. Next to finish the base coating and start some add on details. As always if you have any comments, please feel free to drop in. Rounds Complete!!
Here is the last assemble, the gun upper carriage. The last few details and filling work completed.
Here is a closer view. You can see my use of Archer surface details welding lines. Here is the recoil spade. It has been base painted with NATO Green and the AK Light Rust wash to give a rust bleed look near the bottom. That’s it for now. Next to finish the base coating and start some add on details. As always if you have any comments, please feel free to drop in. Rounds Complete!!
Here is a closer view. You can see my use of Archer surface details welding lines.
Here is the recoil spade. It has been base painted with NATO Green and the AK Light Rust wash to give a rust bleed look near the bottom. That’s it for now. Next to finish the base coating and start some add on details. As always if you have any comments, please feel free to drop in. Rounds Complete!!
Here is the recoil spade. It has been base painted with NATO Green and the AK Light Rust wash to give a rust bleed look near the bottom.
That’s it for now. Next to finish the base coating and start some add on details. As always if you have any comments, please feel free to drop in. Rounds Complete!!
That’s it for now. Next to finish the base coating and start some add on details.
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