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stikpusher The pins work when all else fails. I have used that trick on a few builds of mine lately. I'm too cheap for Fruils... ;-) Dont worry about sag on a Sherman. They are not supposed to have any when the track is tensioned properly on the real tank.
The pins work when all else fails. I have used that trick on a few builds of mine lately. I'm too cheap for Fruils... ;-) Dont worry about sag on a Sherman. They are not supposed to have any when the track is tensioned properly on the real tank.
me too. i use pins when i venture away from from warwheels and tracks. most have side skirts so no problem. looks like a clean build. nice base too.
Никто не Забыт (No one is Forgotten)Ничто не Забыто (Nothing is Forgotten)
Yeah, looks pretty good to me too. Some of the people here with more knowledge might be able to help you more but I don't see any glaring issues. Nice model!
"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen
F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!
U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!
N is for NO SURVIVORS...
- Plankton
LSM
Thank you stickpusher,
I'll have to give the pin trick a try. I tried the CA to the return rollers idea. I used foam earplugs to help hold the sag. After the CA dried, I removed the earplugs and the track pulled up off the rollers. The sag you see is what remains of that process.
I'm building a Sherman for the armor in the west GB. There tracks are so tight I don't think I will have too much of a problem.
Steve
Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.
http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/
Looks pretty good to me.... those Zvezda/Italeri stiff vinyl tracks are really a beast to wrestle with for sag. The easist way to overcomne this obstacle is to get some AM replacement tracks.. plastic, resin, metal... any of them can be made to look better that the kit tracks. But it that is not possible due to budget or other reasons, super glue on the return rollers with some sort of padding to force the sag down and hold it in place while teh glue dries works pretty well. Or small wire pins glued into holes drill in the hull side and placed to hold the sag in place can also be used. Steel wire works best for this as brass wire bends more easily. You can cover the wire pins with mud... the joys of armor weathering...
The decals came apart as soon as I tried to transfer them off the paper, so I improvised.
the dents and damage were produced by the only way I know. Heat. I tried to show the road wheels with a better contour to the ground but the axels keep breaking and things just kept getting worse. Also, I really had a hard time with the track droop over the return rollers. If you guys have a good way of archiving this, I'm all ears.
I hope you like it and I'm ready for any critique. I want to do better with my next build and would love to here any techniques/thoughts.
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