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Tiger 1 treads

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  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Saturday, November 22, 2014 2:47 PM

My recommendation in this case is to not forget that you are creating piece of "Art", really, and that by embedding the tanks a bit and thereby giving the scene an impression of weight, you're going to have a more effective and impressive scene. Technically, yes--the treads might "float" a bit on some terrain, but I guarantee you that if you "float" your treads as per photographic reference, you're going to have guys going "you should've sunk th treads into the ground more" because it won't look "heavy".

Now, not that you should build for "other people's opinions", but I believe that you will like it better if it conveys an impression that hits home, rather than looking "factually correct". Art is Art, man! Smile

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by CharleyGnarlyP290 on Thursday, November 20, 2014 5:35 PM

There is a pic of an M48 that Shepard Paine did in the '70s that he modified for a diorama. He preplanned his diorama with some pretty rough, rocky terrain. He then cut the torsion bars on the tank and repositioned them for a compressed effect. He then mounted the wheels and tracks and put a bolt through the dio base and bottom of the tanks and tightened down the nut before installing the turret. It created quite a dramatic effect.

  • Member since
    August 2012
Posted by shaunfletcher on Wednesday, November 19, 2014 8:38 PM

As Bish indicates they dont sink in as far as might be supposed unless the mud is really wet and deep, or sand is very loose and the tank is doing something other than moving forward. It is the whole point of tracks really! If you specifically want to have it embedded I would look at some wet mud as a scene

if you are working on a more dry surface then what I recommend is making a strip of spare tracks on a stick and using it to make a clear set of track indents in the ground material while it is drying, with a slight juggle around to make the marks a bit bigger than the tracks.. very carefully to get the spacing right for the tank (you could press the tank into it but it ricks getting crap on your precious model).. then sit the tank into those marks. The matching of dirt and dust colour/texture on the model to the ground is more crucial.

The flex of the wheels on a tiger is individual and quite substantial. It could give a great effect if you preplan some rocks or undulations and position the wheels and tracks appropriately.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, November 19, 2014 4:48 PM

Yes, the axel arms will move up over rocks if they are hard enough. If its in the desert though, I am not sure how it would react with sand stone, it might well crush it. As far as how far it sinks in, again, it depends on the terrain. Some model builders seem to believe that tracks should always sink in, but this is not true. In some cases, the tracks will not sink in, but on sand it would. Your best bet is to look at images of Tigers in the terrain you are planning on replicating.

But here is one example.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2010
Tiger 1 treads
Posted by Bocks Suv on Wednesday, November 19, 2014 3:53 PM

I'm building a Tamiya Tiger 1 Initial Prod for a commission. The final product will end of mounted on a diorama base with sand and rocks etc. My questions are: do the treads and bogeys(?) flex and bob around obstacles like rocks and logs?  And on sand and mud, how far does a moving tank tread sink in? Seems like most builders in FSM and other sites end up practically levitating tanks over the terrain. I'd like to bury the tread into the dirt at least half way up the tread touching the ground. But maybe I'm deluded. I'm a plane guy, but armor is a a nice diversion. 

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