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First Tank Kit in queue, looking for advice- Tiger 1

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  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: St. Louis
Posted by Shawn M. on Friday, April 17, 2015 12:55 PM

Thanks gang, I will try a few techniques on some spare parts I've got about in the extra's bin, see if I can make it look right.

With a very few exceptions I dont build the same subject twice so this'll be my one go at a Tiger.

I love the smell of plastic in the morning

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Gothenburg
Posted by JohanT on Friday, April 17, 2015 10:50 AM

Hi Shawn M.

I think you have exactly the right kit to try a new technique.

I would leave most (all) doors shut, and save the interior parts to enhance Dragon or AFV releases.

And try putting my own zim using good quality pictures as reference.

Will dig out a few when back at home.

I did this with the same kit but not very successfully, it was worth the effort from a learning perspective though.

ATAK has very good resin sheets but I would save those for the Dragon and AFV releases.

Vey Best Regards

Johan

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Friday, April 17, 2015 10:27 AM

.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, April 17, 2015 9:59 AM

Honestly, I don't think it's so hard to do. Depends where you want to set the bar, but try doing it with putty and a tool. There are modelers around here that will always be beyond what most of us can achieve, but you can get good results with a little practice.

Where it really comes into its own, as Roy says, is when you get into some tight spots and have to come up with some creative solutions. Try practicing on the inside of your hull, or on some sheet scrap.

And as always, wherever possible work from photos.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: St. Louis
Posted by Shawn M. on Friday, April 17, 2015 9:54 AM

yeah, PE zim' sounds like a nightmare!

I've seen resin Zim' kits that seem a little more user friendly.

I love the smell of plastic in the morning

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by T26E4 on Thursday, April 16, 2015 9:48 PM

My opinion is that 1/35 PE zimmerit looks poor.  In 1/48 and 1/72, you can't see the seam imperfections.  They're way too obvious in 1/35.  And my gosh, don't ever look at some company's attempt to have you put a PE zimm part over a curved kit piece -- I got a 1/48 PE set for the Tamiya Panther G and the manufacturer has this star shaped piece you're supposed to place OVER the kugelblende glacis MG port -- ridiculous.

Roy Chow 

Join AMPS!

http://www.amps-armor.org

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2015
Posted by Roadrunner70 on Thursday, April 16, 2015 12:21 PM

It's also possible that Eduard (or similar) makes a P.E. set for the zimmerit.

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: St. Louis
Posted by Shawn M. on Thursday, April 16, 2015 12:17 PM

thanks Mech tech, it looks like the "easier" way to go

I love the smell of plastic in the morning

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Grand Bay, New Brunswick ,Canada
Posted by MECHTECH on Thursday, April 16, 2015 7:21 AM

May I suggest that if you do wish to go the Zimmermit way to get the Tamiya Zimm tool. It does make it easier to apply.

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: St. Louis
Posted by Shawn M. on Tuesday, April 14, 2015 9:03 AM

Thanks Roy!

There are a lot of great skills to learn in the armor world that I can translate to my usual subject material.

Dora is done, I will post pics in the aircraft section once I do a glamor shoot with 'her

I love the smell of plastic in the morning

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by T26E4 on Sunday, April 12, 2015 7:05 PM

Shawn: growing up I built a/c and afvs.  I got back into serious modeling after college, focusing solely on 1/72 Luftwaffe a/c.  It honed my eye for detail and allowed me to appreciate the lines, curves and shapes of the aircraft assemblies, the attention to decal work and fine camo airbrushing.  I jumped back into AFVs in 1995 and have migrated those skills over.  The big thing in developing an "eye" in AFVs is to always remember that the vehicle is an actual machine -- being operated by humans.  Often we can lose perspective b/c it's a few ounces of plastic on our workbench.  But if we try to get to eye level and with the mindset of "would I store this item here or there if I were the crewman?" -- it solves lots of problems.  

Great looking Dora!

Roy Chow 

Join AMPS!

http://www.amps-armor.org

 

 

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: St. Louis
Posted by Shawn M. on Sunday, April 12, 2015 11:33 AM

Excellent advice guys, Im so happy I posted this here.

I chose that Dora scheme 'cause its colorful AND my first go at airbrushing.

more color!

 https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8700/16412942783_4b9d35acac_b.jpg

I love the smell of plastic in the morning

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Saturday, April 11, 2015 9:48 AM

.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, April 11, 2015 12:51 AM

People forget all the time: puzzelates me.

Practice on crap, whoops I mean scrap.

My few tries at that involved putting down a thin layer of putty like Testors white or Squadron green. Use the square back end of a #11 blade and go up-up-up, then flat-flat-flat. Over and over.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in central North Carolina.
Posted by disastermaster on Friday, April 10, 2015 9:51 PM

Simply put....   http://emoticoner.com/files/emoticons/smileys/color-eyes-smiley.gif?1292867573http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww173/prestonjjrtr/Smileys/Smiley35.gif
That is just Beautiful.

 https://i.imgur.com/LjRRaV1.png

 

 

 
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by T26E4 on Friday, April 10, 2015 8:28 PM

May I suggest you not try the hotknife option?  They pass muster at a distance -- but if you look closely, they don't resemble real zimmerit.  It was applied and raked with a toothed trowel or stamped with a studded plate.  That's why zimm applicators are either teethed tools or roller wheels.  My two cents.

Roy Chow 

Join AMPS!

http://www.amps-armor.org

 

 

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: St. Louis
Posted by Shawn M. on Friday, April 10, 2015 2:21 PM

thanks guys, I see your point.

I'll shoot for a good solid build with the adaptation of some new technique.

I'll post here when I start it, you guys are all super talented.

I love the smell of plastic in the morning

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Friday, April 10, 2015 1:24 PM

Wow! Okay yeah, priorities understood.  :)

I have to echo the other guys though. Going for absolute accuracy is not something any of us will suggest for your first armor build.

Trying new techniques such as modulation, oil streaking, and rust and dirt effects would be more practical.

Enjoying the build would be my suggested top priority. Accuracy for accuracy's sake will bog you down.

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: St. Louis
Posted by Shawn M. on Friday, April 10, 2015 12:44 PM

Need to finish this guy off first:

I love the smell of plastic in the morning

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: St. Louis
Posted by Shawn M. on Friday, April 10, 2015 12:38 PM

I've read a lot of different techniques from putty to a heated screw driver.

I just got a 3doodler and one of tips is super fine, I may try literally drawing the zim on.

Not sure yet.

Still have 2.5 builds ahead of it but I like to plan an research way ahead of time.

It was either this kit or my Gepard with individual tracks and all the PE, thought I'd start simple.

Traditionally I build aircraft, not a beginner by any means.

I love the smell of plastic in the morning

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, April 10, 2015 12:05 PM

If you want complete accuracy, then yes it should have Zimm. But I would echo Roy in its not something I would worry to much about for my first armour build. I would just get to grips with the basis, sort of walk before you can run. But if you really want to add the zimm, then go for it. What are you thinking of using.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: St. Louis
Posted by Shawn M. on Friday, April 10, 2015 11:10 AM

thanks Roy, appreciate the input!

Adding the zim seems like a great chance to learn a new technique (which I strive for in every build).

I love the smell of plastic in the morning

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by T26E4 on Friday, April 10, 2015 10:52 AM

This will help you:

missing-lynx.com/.../pftiger.htm

Since you version has the cast cupola which was introduced after Zimmerit was introduced, you should add zimmerit.

 

Here is an article that might offer more tweaks for you too:

http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/german/mmtiger/mmtiger.htm

 

But to be frank, if it's your first tank model -- just build it out of the box and have fun with it.  Save your super accuracy builidng energy and skills for a better base kit (this one is pretty mediocre in many ways).

 

Roy Chow 

Join AMPS!

http://www.amps-armor.org

 

 

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: St. Louis
First Tank Kit in queue, looking for advice- Tiger 1
Posted by Shawn M. on Friday, April 10, 2015 10:01 AM

Hi Gang,

I've got this kit in the build queue:

Im trying to determine if I need to add the Zimmerit coating to be accurate or not.

It does have the early and mid prod intakes so I could just avoid the zim' entirely.

However Im striving for an accurate build.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I love the smell of plastic in the morning

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