Well, I got the hull and the road wheels painted. I used Tamiya XF-69 NATO Black for the rubber part of the wheels, then I used a circle template to paint the inner part XF-61 Dark Green, which is the same color I used for the hull. I really like how the color looks. I think I made a good choice using Tamiya paints for my first go with airbrushing - and airbrushing acrylics at that - because they seem to be very forgiving. The same can be said about using Iwata airbrushes. I used the HP-M2 for the hull with the nozzle set almost full open. I ran the psi at about 18. I thinned at about a 1:1 ratio, which was pretty thin - like skim milk. It started to splatter a bit on the first trigger presses, but then I remembered a couple things: the paint was very thin, and I had the brush pointed downward with the nozzle wide open. I also remembered the Iwata instructions saying to close the nozzle if setting the brush down with paint in it. So, I simply made sure that I didn't tip the nozzle downward in between passes, and shortly thereafter, the splattering stopped completely. I also ran some alcohol and water through the brush before I added the paint, so there may have been some droplets left over from that

Here's the results I got so far. I did the road wheels first, and I think they may need another coat. I really like this color. It's pretty much exactly what I had envisioned for this M113. Getting close to the finish line!

Thanks to everyone for being so supportive and sharing invaluable tips and extremely inspiring pics. Due to changing internet providers, working a ton of overtime, and catching up on some home projects, I haven't been able to post any updates. Finally got a break in the action, so I'll try to catch things up - yet be brief

I finished all of the pre-paint assembly. I drilled out the bolt holes where the side skirts would be - Phil_H would be proud haha! That turned out very good. I did have a couple location problems where I had to fill and re-drill, but I got it to look acceptable. I also filled in the location holes where the pioneer tools would have gone, and I puttied any minor gaps I found throughout the model

This has been a tremendous learning process, and I couldn't be more pleased with how I'm progressing. The slow pace can be hard to take sometimes, as anxiousness creeps in, but it's bearing the fruit I'm looking for. What's most important is I'm enjoying it a lot

I fired up the new paint station for the first time today, and it was a lot of fun. As I've done with the assembly, I used the experienced advice I've received here to aid with getting started airbrushing. I decided to prime with a rattle can simply because I already had some and I believe in easing into things like this, so I'm trying to balance between keeping it simple for progress' sake while still being adventurous enough to advance my skills

That being said, after using the airbrush, I will probably drop the rattle cans altogether. The control with an airbrush is just too good to not use. I'm really amazed at how easy airbrushing is. It's really incredible. I really have to thank Don Wheeler and Paul Budzik. Their information on airbrushing and painting, I firmly believe, has shortened my learning curve with the airbrush immensely. If anyone new to airbrushing happens to read this, I cannot recommend those two gurus enough - check them out!

Here's a couple pics to show how things have turned out...

Here's the exhaust pipe that I hollowed out

Here's the model primed (this is after the first coat. You can see the bad skirt hole locations if you really look. After some touch-up and a second coat of primer, they aren't noticeable at all now)

Here's the result of my first go with an airbrush. I used Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black to do a little pre-shading - I'm not actually very concerned with that technique in itself here, it was mostly a way to get started with the airbrush. I used an Iwata HP-M1 set at around 18psi with the nozzle about halfway open (single-action). The paint was thinned to the obligatory milk-like consistency. I used Tamiya's X-20A thinner just to be on the safe side, with this being my first go and all, but I will probably use a simple home brew going forward (a mix of distilled water, IPA, flow-aid, and retarder). As you can tell, I don't have great control yet, which is to be expected whenever a hand tool is used for the first time. But with the aforementioned tips helping to get the paint flowing properly from the get go, I can focus on those skills quickly, which is where that learning curve shortens dramatically

Next up is to paint the road wheels and tracks, then color on the hull and wheels, then detail the tracks, then decals and weathering. Then, it will finally be done!

Just to make everyone jealous (well, probably not everyone hahaha!), here's my awesome airbrush array. Bottom left to right: Iwata HP-CS for detailing, and a Paasche H for primers and clears. Top left to right: Badger 200 for metallics, then an Iwata HP-M2 and HP-M1 for larger and smaller color coats, repectively

Hope everybody enjoys what's left of the weekend. Got a big four-day holiday weekend coming up, woohoo! On deck is a Spitfire Mk1 and a '67 Chevelle SS396. I'm going to try to do both of them simultaneously

Looks like you're making pretty good progress from here.

We'll make an APCmaker out out of you yet! 

Well, I think I got her ready for paint, finally. I've decided that I'm going to attach the tow cable and the track links, but I'm going to leave off the tools and the cans. I'll probably fill in the holes where the tools go rather than try to fabricate something to look like their attachment points. I have plenty of work to do with painting, and I feel good with where it's at

I had a little issue with some gaps that I corrected with Tamiya Basic Putty thinned with lacquer thinner - worked really well. The gaps in front were from excessive trimming on my part - I'm still getting used to working with styrene

Overall, though, I'm perfectly satisfied with the results so far. I've learned a lot already - mostly that patience and focus are crucial. Main points I've learned from the assembly process: 1) Plan ahead as best you can; 2) Dry fit twice, glue once; 3) Styrene is delicate (I know that's relative, but it falls into the delicate material category to me); 4) Practice part placement - including applying adhesive - when test-fitting; 5) Correct placement when using CA is critical; 6) Regular plastic cement can be used to soften material if further manipulation is necessary, and thin versions can be used to clean up edges; 7) use a little glue as necessary

Please, gurus, feel free to laugh, scoff, ridicule, correct, cajole, instruct, recommend, augment, praise, flatter, send money, etc...

Oh, by the way, the tracks are on just for my own amusement. I'll take them off for paint

I don't think so. She's a really talented Australian actress.

Wow, I haven't see one of these built up in years. Cool. Looking good so far.

What's with the blond chick? Is that your wife?

Hey G ;

   That's what surprises folks in my area . I am working on my client' two ships , my four and two trains in an 18'x26' space .the bench is clogged with parts boxes . Not to mention adhesives , paints and tools .

The bolt holes are easy. Just take your time, mark out the locations and drill away.

If you look closely, you may also notice the under-sponson applique armour

 PS: Remember to extend the bilge drain pipe over the right rear corner.  

ikar, those pics are outstanding! And thanks for the info! It's really helpful!

I was aware of the bolt holes for the skirts, but I wasn't sure if I had the confidence to try and do them, but I think I do now, so I'm going to go for it. So far, I'm very pleased with how this build is naturally conducive to my learning and developing some basic skills

The hardest part has been being patient. Like right now, for instance, I have a couple gaps at the rear fenders that need to be filled, and it's nagging at me something fierce, but I know that if I give in to the temptation to flip on my work lights and get my putty and trowel out, I will end up losing sleep and sucking at work tomorrow. Plus, I run the risk of doing rushed work, which, even if it turns out good, doesn't leave me feeling satisfied - it starts to feel like work if I do that

I can't wait to start painting. Especially after putting out so much effort to build that spray booth and getting a pretty sweet array of new airbrushes, I am DYING to use them!! I LOVE painting, always have, and the anticipation to learn new skills with airbrushing and weathering is driving me crazy!!! That being said, though, I am thoroughly enjoying the assembling process. There's something about shaping a part, bonding it to another, then seeing the whole idea of this miniature replica of the real thing start to appear. I find it deeply satisfying. It's kind of spiritual even

Man, I really need some sleep hahaha!

It's been a long time since I drove one of these things.  I don't remember, did it rotate in either direction or just one?

Here's a couple little things that I do remember:

there's a little knob behind the driver's hatch on the raised brace.  It was rubber should be black.

Under the raised bar over the driver's hatch should be two rounded pieces.  These would rotate to let a I.R. periscope stick out.  If they were not there you would have a hole  that would let in a lot of monsoon water on the driver.  For this you could use a couple pieces of small half round strips with the rounded part up.

Some  of our tracks had a mesh grill over the engine areas to the right of the driver.

Some also had a armored plate over the fuel tank with a couple straps running down it.

There was a chain that was connected to the inside of the rear hatch.  It ran through a rubber hose almost all its length.

If you don't use the fording skirts, you need to drill holes into the sides of the armor.  The skirt pieces will show you where.  You can also have a bit of rust running down the side of the vehicle if you want.  Although the 113 was made of aluminum the bolts for the skirts were steel.

The wires for each set of lights would meet at a central point behind the light brackets before going into the vehicle.

Once in a while one of our tracks would come back from motor pool with a new bolt in a road wheel.  Sometimes they painted them, sometimes they didn't, so you could se a silver bolt instead of cammoflaged.

Also, minor wear and tear:

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While seein that photo, I forgot Im on a armor forum...no complains...just got lost... LOL...

Thanks! I've always wondered what the heck that thing was. I seem to remember the Bradleys having them too, but not sure. I saw on some of the pics, where the angle was conducive, that the handle is exactly like you described. That was part of why I only drilled a set hole on the bottom end. I guess if I was REALLY good I would try to replicate the little latch part at the top, but that would be so small of a piece it would drive me nuts. It does get my mind to thinking about how I can do stuff like that though

The part on the front that you left off is called the trim vane. It is a piece of wood attached by a metal channel with hinges and extended by the armature close to the drivers hatch. It is used for swimming the track. The engine hatch handle is only attached at one end because it rotates to lock the hatch shut. Up/down is the locked position and rotated to a horizontal position allows the hatch to be opened. IIRC, it is attached and rotates on the upper end. The lower portion is clear of the hatch by an inch or so.

Firstly, thanks to everyone for your endless support and encouragement. Work has been consuming lately because we have our annual mid-Summer shutdown coming up, so we rush to get as much done before as we can. It's great for the pocket book, but leaves little time for one's self. The cherry on top is that I've been dealing with a nasty abcess (sp?) in my armpit all week - gross! - so work was really draining (no pun intended). Finally got that taken care of today - thank God for walk-in clinics - and now have some time to get back to the important stuff, building models!

I've been trying to do as much sanding and surface prep on the basic structure as I can before attaching the detail parts. Things have been going pretty well I think in that department. I was smoothing and blending the lower front hull with sanding sticks when I noticed that I had kind of beveled the tops of the attachment plates where the tow hooks go. No problemo though, I just used a scribing tool to carefully cut away at the beveled edge to restore it to 90 deg. I didn't take any pics of that, but wanted to mention it because it's part of my progress and growth as a modeler, and I'm all about my daddy-look-what-I-did moments here with you guys

Speaking of... I actually did my first bit of scratchbuilding!! No kidding! I decided that I'm not going to attach the retractable plate on the front, so that presented a couple cosmetic issues. One of them was that the molded impression of a handle on the engine cover hatch (the hood?) was just not satisfactory, esp after looking at lots of pics of the real thing. So I cut a piece of wire from a bread tie thingy and shaped it into an acceptable - to me - facsimile. Rather than make two holes to set it into, I used a pin vise and drill bit to make one hole at the bottom end, and shaped the piece so that one end was slightly longer than the other. Then, I simply used CA to attach it. I know it's a very small step, but doing any kind of scratch work is something I would have laughed at if you would have told me I would even be attempting anything like that on this first build. So, I feel pretty darned good about it. Hope you guys approve - if you don't, that's cool, please let me know, it's impossible to diagnose delusion without external feedback

The next cosmetic issue is the obvious attachment holes where the plate was to go, and also where the actuator arm went as well. I clipped the protrusions from the parts themselves and used plastic cement to fill them most of the way. I'll use putty to complete the job

The lovely Yvonne Strahovski

Here are some of the seams smoothed out with Tamiya Extra Thin, and Tamiya Basic Putty applied to the holes, and a few other spots that needed a little filling. Now I'm just waiting for it to dry before smoothing it out. Might let it cure overnight. In the meantime, back to Vietnam in HD - thank God for Netlix haha. You might notice the green cutting mat in this pic. I decided to put it under the glass instead of the grid paper. The white of the paper created too much contrast when my work lights are on, esp the LED overhead, and the eye-strain was noticeable. Plus, the two pieces tended to slide around a bit, and the rubber cutting mat provides a much more stable platform

Every now and then I straighten out my bench. Notice I said "straighten out" not clean. My desk will probably never be clean. Its probably why I get relegated to the basement,, or as I refer to it now as the "man cave". The 113 is looking good Jet!!

Nice bench!... I also have a computer on side from "main" building desk, initially I used to play music or a movie, youtube WWII documentary, or specific building advice. But now with higher speed Internet I just got, I've become a World of Tanks game addict....it is taking a lot of time out of my building.

Your desk truly looks clean...I just would be so worried to finish with monitor all "airbrushed" be so close.

O yeah, by the way, M113 looking good.

And even more strength to lift it when the ramp pump is out and ya gotta do it by muscle ;)

If you at some point decide to have the ramp down, the cable comes from under the seats on its left side and you can see a small piece on the ramp where the cable attaches.  

It takes quite a bit of strength for the cable to pull all that from such a short angle.

Enjoying a much needed break from work, and getting caught up on both my M113 and, due to my recent discovery of Netflix, the television series Dexter - I left off at the beginning of season 5 when I got back from Africa in 2011. I decided to take a little break and post on my progress while the rain gently falls outside my window

I can tell that my skills are very raw, and that this Tamiya kit is very forgiving. As several others have stated, this is a very good choice for a first kit. I discovered while attaching one of the hinges for the troop hatch that dry-fitting is much more than testing the fit of the parts, it's also a dry-run at actually putting the parts together. Things like how you hold your tools or the parts themselves, or what angle or direction to come from, etc are very good things to pay attention to in a dry-fit, along with the fitment of the parts, to make the final attachment much easier and better. This is a new concept for me, and I'm actually going to apply this at my job also. I've always just approached dry-fitting - which I do all the time at work - as making sure the parts fit together properly, but never gave my work angle much thought at all. Occasionally I would consider my work angle at the job, whether in construction, the military, or at my latest factory endeavors, but usually only when my body was giving me negative feedback (discomfort) or if my aim was obviously off, but I never really gave it the respect I think it deserves if I truly want to do the best work I can

The workbench pics have been incredible. I'm absolutely blown away at the sight of a finely crafted piece sitting in the middle of torrent of paints and glues and knives and sanding sticks and brushes and what not. So, here's a pic of my workbench in it's "dirty" state. Mind you, at the end of the build session, everything will be put away and it will be clean. I'm a freak like that. The second pic is just a close-up of the 113. I got the drive sprockets on and the rest of the main hull complete - except for a couple hatches, the retractable plate on the front (don't know what it's called), lights, tools, and small detail parts. I'm pretty confident I'll have her ready for paint after this weekend

I've got four kids and a constant stream of items coming in that need to be kept "safe" from siblings. I fear I will never win that battle. Between the kids and the wife thumping her wallet down in the middle of it, it is quite the hazardous work area lol.

LOL...yep, mine sometimes looks like that, but between models I do a full clean up and order up everything. This also allows my wife to clean up the desk and room which is forbidden to even look at while work is in progress.

You know it's probably better to let the model sit than push yourself when you don't feel like it and mess something up. Hope things straighten out soon.

M. Brindos

That rule is the truth. I think I work in an area just a tad smaller than that lol. I need to clean up my desk.  :/

LOLS!!!! I can see that!

I guess we all live in the same small world sometimes lol. Yep.

Well I got practically nothing accomplished this weekend. I got the top slat of wood I was going to put on my spray booth installed, and I got the roof of my M113 glued on, and that's it. I really intended to get most, if not all, of the hull done so she'd be ready for paint by this coming weekend, but my timelines and reality have been at odds lately. It's cool though, I'd been working a lot of OT and work has been a bit stressful the last couple months, so I think I just needed a little rest. I watched a bunch of TV - something I haven't done in a long time - ate some good food, and got some good sleep. I feel pretty refreshed. I'm not scheduled for OT this week, so I'll have a nice, full weekend, and I plan to take full advantage of it

Mike, I'm kind of seeing that too. The actual space in which I work on modeling is right around 2 sq ft, the rest is just storage

That rule is the truth. I think I work in an area just a tad smaller than that lol. I need to clean up my desk.  :/

garzonh

Is that your hobby desk?, is the most clean desk I've seen.

3) No matter how large your workbench, your actual work area will always be exactly 2 square feet (0.19 square meters).