SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

DML Jagdpather Sd.Kfz.173 Ausf.G1 Early Production WIP

1790 views
16 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Bay Area, CA
DML Jagdpather Sd.Kfz.173 Ausf.G1 Early Production WIP
Posted by Reaper420 on Thursday, August 20, 2015 1:53 AM

Just started tonight and this is all I am going to work on until tomorrow. Doesn't look like too much but that dang working torsion bar system took forever not to mention all the minor sub assemblies (typical dragon) for the lower hull. Got 8 of the road wheels glued together and sanded, still have the drive and idler wheels to assemble. All of this was only step 1&2 and involved 72 pieces. The last photo shows all my work that I have built up but have yet to paint over the last month. As with all my armor, you have metal barrels either by RB or Aber, and Friul Tracks, with a few Easy links, and Spade Ace. The Tiger II, Jagdtiger, Stug III and Lowe have yet to have their Friuls completed and installed, real time consuming as you all know! Stay tuned, more progress to come.

Oh and as a side note, see part D9 that I have pointed out? Typical dragon in the fact that part D9 does not exsist, as there is no D parts sprue even in the Kit! However on the other side of the same page in the sub assemblies window, it calls that part out again, however as N38, which there is an N parts sprue and the piece is correctly labeled #38.

 

 

 

 

 

Kick the tires and light the fires!

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Thursday, August 20, 2015 6:27 AM

So far,so good,If I'm not doing a diorama base,I usually lock up the movable suspension and don't mess with it.looking forward to your progress.

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Bay Area, CA
Posted by Reaper420 on Thursday, August 20, 2015 10:56 AM

Tojo72

So far,so good,If I'm not uding a diorama base,I usually lock up the movable suspension and don't mess with it.looking forward to your progress.

 

Funny you mention that! I DID lock up the suspension which is why it took me so long. I had to make sure all the arms were aligned evenly so that all the wheels will be on the same level. A major pain indeed. More progress to come later today.

Kick the tires and light the fires!

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Thursday, August 20, 2015 11:26 AM

Nice start. I built the same kit earlier this year. I had not noticed D9 but then my PE set had that covered. It should be a piece of wire for the light.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Bay Area, CA
Posted by Reaper420 on Thursday, August 20, 2015 10:20 PM

[UPDATE 8-20-2015]

So today wasn't as eventful as I wanted it to be, ended up having to go and service a system at a customer site and do some family business. All I managed to get done was installing all the road, drive, and idler wheels and the cooling fans. Stay tuned, plan to put some major time in over the weekend.

 

Kick the tires and light the fires!

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Saturday, August 22, 2015 8:48 AM

Did you actually glue all the wheels on already? It makes it devilishly hard to properly paint and weather them like that. Usually with interleavened road wheels the best way to paint them is seperately, one by one, with only the two inner "close" wheels actually glued together. Whistling Usually I just put them on without glue like this so that I can form the tracks over them, but then I can take them off for painting.

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Bay Area, CA
Posted by Reaper420 on Saturday, August 22, 2015 10:06 PM

the doog

Did you actually glue all the wheels on already? It makes it devilishly hard to properly paint and weather them like that. Usually with interleavened road wheels the best way to paint them is seperately, one by one, with only the two inner "close" wheels actually glued together. Whistling Usually I just put them on without glue like this so that I can form the tracks over them, but then I can take them off for painting.

 

Actually I modified them and put PVC caps inside to hold them on. So I can remove them as needed for painting and weathering.

Kick the tires and light the fires!

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Sunday, August 23, 2015 7:20 AM

That's a great plan that's what Tamiya does,and I wish Dragon did the same,it would make it easier to deal with the indies

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Bay Area, CA
Posted by Reaper420 on Sunday, August 23, 2015 3:29 PM

Tojo72

That's a great plan that's what Tamiya does,and I wish Dragon did the same,it would make it easier to deal with the indies

 

 

Absolutely. I love how tamiya does that.  But in any case it doesn't matter to me because I always use friul tracks and you can slide them on even if the wheels are glued on.  I personally don't care for indie links and absolutely  hate rubberband tracks. But I wanted to be able to remove these wheels so I went with the PVC cap mod.

Kick the tires and light the fires!

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, August 23, 2015 3:42 PM
This was my first time using Indy links and I rather liked them. I do like Fruils, but the price has stopped me replacing my dragon kit tracks. Which marking option are you going to be doing, and will you be adding the Zimm.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Bay Area, CA
Posted by Reaper420 on Sunday, August 23, 2015 4:29 PM

Bish
This was my first time using Indy links and I rather liked them. I do like Fruils, but the price has stopped me replacing my dragon kit tracks. Which marking option are you going to be doing, and will you be adding the Zimm.
 

 

Haven't decided on the marking option yet,  but I was leaning towards 2./s.Pz.Jg.Abt.654, France 1944. That is though if I plan on being historically accurate. I very well may end up doing something that is out of my head (still correct WWII German wise, but not necessarily this particular vehicle wise). I may not do the zimm, as my hand applying zimm skills are still not up to par, and I have yet to find an AM zimm kit, resin or PE that looks good enough. Any suggestions  on that? 

Kick the tires and light the fires!

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Bay Area, CA
Posted by Reaper420 on Sunday, August 23, 2015 8:27 PM

Bish

Nice start. I built the same kit earlier this year. I had not noticed D9 but then my PE set had that covered. It should be a piece of wire for the light.

 

Hey Bish,

Just a quick question.......when you built this kit, did you have trouble with the upper and lower hulls. As in the back end didn't seem to want to sit down like it was supposed to? I am. Any remedies or did you just slap on some glue and hold it down until it stuck?

Kick the tires and light the fires!

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, August 24, 2015 12:46 AM

I apply my own Zimm useing Milliput white, so i am not really in a position to coment on AM zimm. Like with any thing else regarding historical accuracy, the choice is yours. At least you are making that choice rather than having a lack of knowledge on the subject.

Yes, i did have the sameissue, and with my other Panther last year. And i at least i know its not just me. I think somthing is out with either the angle of the width, eitehr on the top hull piece or the rear hull. I found some sanding did help, but not to much. And then just hold it in place.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Bay Area, CA
Posted by Reaper420 on Monday, August 24, 2015 1:49 AM

Bish

I apply my own Zimm useing Milliput white, so i am not really in a position to coment on AM zimm. Like with any thing else regarding historical accuracy, the choice is yours. At least you are making that choice rather than having a lack of knowledge on the subject.

Yes, i did have the sameissue, and with my other Panther last year. And i at least i know its not just me. I think somthing is out with either the angle of the width, eitehr on the top hull piece or the rear hull. I found some sanding did help, but not to much. And then just hold it in place.

 

Ok, good to know it was not just me either. I think it may be the front upper hull. The angle of the front armor isn't steep enough ( or too steep?) or that the mounts for the drive wheels are angled too steep (not steep enough?) so that when you slide the upper hull in place, it makes the back end pop up. Any way I'm trying to work that out, and I need to do a little work on the mantlet ( the way that dragon attaches it to the parts tree is horrible and makes it very difficult to remove it without causing some minor damage, not to mention it does not sit perfectly flat against the hull, so you end up with minor gaps that need filling.) so I will post more pics of my progress once I get these issues worked out. Stay tuned!

Kick the tires and light the fires!

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, August 24, 2015 11:43 AM
Now that's an interesting thought. I never considered paying any attention to the front. I have a few more Dragon Panther based kits so i'll be looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Bay Area, CA
Posted by Reaper420 on Monday, August 24, 2015 1:38 PM

Bish
Now that's an interesting thought. I never considered paying any attention to the front. I have a few more Dragon Panther based kits so i'll be looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
 

 

Ok Bish,  I figured out the problem. The part pointed out in the picture is actually molded(or cast, whatever) too high. If you sand it down, but keeping the angle the same, the problem will be solved. Just need to sand and test, sand and test. 

 

Kick the tires and light the fires!

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, August 24, 2015 1:46 PM

I can't believe i never thought of that. 3 Dragon Panthers in the last couple of years and i just focused on the rear end. Bang Head

That will teach me to pay more attention. Thanks Reaper.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.