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Tamiya 1/35th Chally I Completed page 2

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  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Friday, December 11, 2015 2:44 PM

Really nice, Bish. It looks the part.

You could probably get away with at least half of the sealing coats you put on though. Future is rather a heavy medium too---try Model Master acrylic flat or semigloss. Does the job, but is light as it should be for the hobby.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, December 11, 2015 2:52 PM
Thanks Karl, I will look into that. I know what you mean about future, even a light spray seems to clog up recesses. I think it got 2 future coats and one Alclad at the end. Unfortunately Testors products are not available in the UK, but I do need to look for something else. I might also try one protective coat after the dry brushing and just the final flat coat at the end.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Schroon Lake, NY
Posted by SMJmodeler on Tuesday, December 15, 2015 9:06 AM

Bish: I'm not sure why you're doing all those extra coats, can you help me understand your steps?  2Indifferent future coats, ouchBlack Eye !?!?! The protective coat after the drybrushing would be unnecessary if you use oils and let them dry reall well...and the final flat:  A spray of thinned acrylic "dust/ dirt" could serve as the final flat...or how about a "drybrush of pigments as the final flat...???

I've successfully used these techniques to knock-down the shine when I weathered model railroad rolling stock & locomotives.  

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, December 15, 2015 5:17 PM

The first coat is not so much to protect the dry brushing as it is to protect the enamel paint from the oil wash and any enamel washes. I am going to try and find somthing to replace the future for that. The second is to protect the dot filtering from the enamel effects i often use. I am going to cut that out completly next time.

I actually started out a few years back with the weathering guide you psoited and have been modifying that over time to suit what i use, but i am still working on it. I have the results i want, i just want to simplify it a bit.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Schroon Lake, NY
Posted by SMJmodeler on Friday, December 18, 2015 2:17 PM

Bish
I actually started out a few years back with the weathering guide you posted and have been modifying that over time to suit what I use...

Bish: WOW, I'm flatteredEmbarrassed that you use that.  Someone else mentioned it recently too so I found it on my computer, printed it and then realized I need to edit it a bit to make it more "timely".  Overall it's still applicable but I find that the extra protective layers (specifically the Tamiya Flat Base/ Future Mix) can be deleted IF adequate drying times are allowed.  

Maybe I should edit it and start a new thread...hmmmm.

Uh-ohIndifferent  I just noticed step 4 says Filter Washes...I better change that to VERY DILUTED WASHESWink

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, December 18, 2015 2:44 PM

SMJmodeler
 
Bish
I actually started out a few years back with the weathering guide you posted and have been modifying that over time to suit what I use...

 

Bish: WOW, I'm flatteredEmbarrassed that you use that.  Someone else mentioned it recently too so I found it on my computer, printed it and then realized I need to edit it a bit to make it more "timely".  Overall it's still applicable but I find that the extra protective layers (specifically the Tamiya Flat Base/ Future Mix) can be deleted IF adequate drying times are allowed.  

Maybe I should edit it and start a new thread...hmmmm.

Uh-ohIndifferent  I just noticed step 4 says Filter Washes...I better change that to VERY DILUTED WASHESWink

 

That has been very useful and really got me started into thinking about how i weather. I have changed a bit since then and my current approach is a bit of a mix between yours and Bill Plunks. My next step, as i mentioned in the otehr thread, is to drop the filters completely.

As i am sure you can appreciate, useing enamels as i do, at least one protective coat is vital, i don't thnik any amount of drying time will change that.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Schroon Lake, NY
Posted by SMJmodeler on Friday, December 18, 2015 3:24 PM

Bish
My next step, as I mentioned in the other thread, is to drop the filters completely.

Bish: I respect your conviction bro'.Beer

For myself: I use filters to cut the contrast of post shading and "stain" the base color.  I think the paint pigment characteristics and the varying thicknesses of paint from air-brushing grab the very diluted wash differently and it gives me the nice tonal variation that I like. BUT, let's not go down that pathIndifferent...I'm not trying to convince you or anything.

Bish
As I am sure you can appreciate, using enamels as I do, at least one protective coat is vital, I don't thnik any amount of drying time will change that.

ABSOLUTELY!!!  I probably should have noted that.  

BTW:  Have you ever eaten at Birds of Smithfield?  Diners, Drive-ins & Dives on The Food Network did a show called "Bite of Britain" The Shepards Pie looked delicious!!!Eats

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, December 18, 2015 3:36 PM

Its always nice to hear why people are doing things just as much as what they are doing. having some idea of the reasons can help in forming our own decisions. I plan to go filterless on one build and see how it goes. If i feel i can't get the realisim i am currently getting, then i would certainly go back to it. And even if i like the result, it does not mean i would not use it again and i don't wnat all my bulds to look the same.

No, i can't say i have. But then we don't get to London very much. I do loike a nice shepards pie, i don't like blowing my own trumpet, but i make a pretty nice one myself.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in North Carolina.
Posted by disastermaster on Friday, December 18, 2015 6:45 PM
                                http://thebluelizardlounge.com/images/gambling_images/cards_4_aces.gif
Garsh-Dang Bish. That's just a beautiful piece of work !

I totally love the colors and how you've modified them.

This is one of my favorite modern british tanks.
                                             

Sherman-Jumbo-1945

"I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now"

 

 
  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by jibber on Saturday, December 19, 2015 8:30 AM

Bish what a fantastic job, I'm all in on the weathering and detail. These old Tamiya kits are like comfort food to me. Really nice Bish.

Terry

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, December 19, 2015 2:47 PM

Thanks for the comments guys.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: back country of SO-CAL, at the birth place of Naval Aviation
Posted by DUSTER on Wednesday, December 23, 2015 4:05 PM

Very interesting discourse on weathering and all. Its given me some good insights on how well it can work. 

 

 Modelers are a strange breed, they put a wash on a tank so it looks dusty?

Merry Christmes to all

 

Steve

Building the perfect model---just not quite yet  Confused

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