Fruilmodel Tracks

I have not used these tracks, but as it does not indicate on the box, i would imagine it does not matter which side the tracks go on. Only a few tanks have left and right tracks. Not sure what you mean about curved part of the sprocket, as the drive sprocket is round. The trcaks are simply assemebled to the required length and then added to the running gear.

I'm with Bish here. Does it matter which tire goes which side be it front or rear on your car? Same thing with tracks.

Thanks. They seem to make a big deal in the instructions  to not mix up the left side and the right side tracks. They also state, somewhat emphatically that one mark the packages "Left' and "Right"so you don't mix them up?! Apparently there are curved track pieces that go on the radius(curved part) of the sprocket (don't know why you would need that as the tracks are flexable). I can't seem to locate them in the package.

Are those instructions on a slip of paper thats in the box. If i remember right, been a year since i used a set, that slip of paper is standard issue no matter what the set. As for that curved track piece, i am confused as well. I have used lots of Fruils for differant vehicles and never had anything in the box other than the track and someties some metal sprockets.

I have just checked a couple of my sets and indeed they have the same slip of paper in each. It doesn't mentioned the curved piece, but i understand what they mean about left and right. They are suggesting that the hole the wire is past through should be on the inside. You will note that the wire does not go all the way through. But honestly, it does not matter. As long as the wire is cut as close as you can to the link, once its painted and weathered, you can tell anyway.

The open molded hole is important if you are picky, or it the tracks had a prominent end pin.  I have had really bad luck with Friul tracks, as 6 out of 10 sets I bought had left-left or right-right sided links.  I ended up punching bolts and washers to cover all of the holes for 3 of the 6 (IS-3, Cromwell, Churchill), which was very tedious!  The other 3 are sitting around waiting for a day when I feel like doing them.

On a related note, I just got in some metal tracks by Sector 35 via Hobby Terra:

http://hobbyterra.com/search.php?subcategories_id=92&manufacturers_id=64

They look like Friul tracks, but come pre-assembled!  There are a couple of loose tracks plus some wire for you to finish up, maybe to account for varying tension.  They cost about the same as Friul sets, but the tedious pinning of the track segments is done for you.  The two sets I bought (IS-3M and KV-I/II) are both correctly handed.

https://flic.kr/p/C1CWcc][/url]Sector 35-KV-II-01 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/B4dXjZ][/url]Sector 35-KV-II-02 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

Oh, and a test fit to Trumpeter's KV-II sprocket reveals perfect match of width and tooth pitch.  I also tested the IS-3M set to the sprockets onTrumpeter's Object 704, and they fit as well.

Thanks Bish!! Left and right is clear now. Will let you know if I ever figure out the curved piece thing!!

A downside of using Fruils on an M7 HMC Priest is that on the real thing, the tracks were extremely taut.  Make sure you have but the smallest sag in your upper run of tracks. 

Agreed on the M7 comment.  Metal tracks are not really appropriate for "live" tracks, such as is common on US and Western European armor.  I'd go with plastic link-to-link for those.

One problem I notice a lot on plastic link tracks is that the builder's fingers impart an upward curve in the tracks between the idler and road wheel - beware the errant finger!

I agree with Bish, I always have the cut pin opening on the inside. You can still access the pins if you have to and the outside of the tracks look finished. 

Terry

For the obscene prices they charge for those tracks, I wouldn't just "wing" any aspect of them. I'm sure it makes a BIG difference which "side" is which.

Just some general information when assembling Fruils.

First, you basic tools and substitute the "wire" with sewing stick pins:

Next, clean up individual track sections (removing metal flash as required):

Using the stick pins provides a much more robust assembly and makes the "pivot" function of the block behave better during assembly:

Once the pin is driven in, use side cutters to trim off the head:

Once a strand is started, an assembly aid can be fashione from press board and a router bit. This speeds up the process in "assembly line" fashion:

There have been occasions on certain kits where the amount of blocks are not the same, side to side for whatever reason. It is wise to test fit your strand during the assembly process to control this:

Even though many people do not care for Fruilmodel tracks, I think they have no equal when executed properly on any armor model: