SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

DAK RAL 8000 confusion

22169 views
54 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Sunday, February 23, 2020 6:08 PM

I would like to throw my shilling into the mix here if I may.

Mig and AK have a scale effect policy for their paints so what they put out IS NOT RAL correct.

If youo use Vallejo Model Air they produce actual chipset correct paints. The German OEM paint industry throughout the war were able to produce paints for the military with a maximum of +/- 10% variance from the chipset values.

For RAL 8000 the colour is 71.272.

Also, Dunkelgelb apart from the first shade from February to August 1943 was not Dark Yellow (translation). The first shade was named Dunkelgelb nack muster (dark yellow after pattern and did not have the RAL 7028 number. When the colour finally went into the RAL shade book the colour was completly different due to feedback from the front line.

Panzer colours. Original shades from OEM manufacturer used on my restoration projects. RAL 8000 bottom Row, 2nd from left.

  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by lewbud on Sunday, February 23, 2020 5:45 PM

Our chapter entry for this years Nats was the DAK. I was supposed to build a Kettenkrad towing a field kitchen. I asked him what color to use, he said RAL 8000. Since it was his build, I gathered together several versions of RAL 8000, Model Master, Vallejo, a really weird Humbrol match, and a couple of others. I shot some test strips over Tamiya's Panzer Gray rattle can and he chose the Vallejo. Be forewarned, if you shoot it over Panzer gray, it will develop a greenish cast because of the blue in the gray.

It's not that green in real life, but it is darker than Dunkelgelb.  The Mig version looks way too brown.

Buddy- Those who say there are no stupid questions have never worked in customer service.

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Sunday, February 23, 2020 11:15 AM

The ratio expressed is not for mixing purposses.   It rather describes the amount the second colour is applied over top in form of shapes, blotches, etc. and should cover one third of the vehicle surface.  So the first colour is applied overall (RAL 8000), followed by camou shapes (RAL 7008).  Same idea for the second set of paints - RAL 8020 is the overall vehicle colour, with camou shapes applied with RAL 7027, and this would cover 1/3 of the vehicle's surface.

I suppose it's possible in the field there may have been some confusion in application, or even mixing of two different colours due to shortages, but I've not seen any official documentation concerning this.

 

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    December 2019
  • From: NJ
Posted by Golight186k on Sunday, February 23, 2020 10:07 AM

Hi Bish,

This was very helpful, thank you. My understanding is that the paint ratio's for 'early RAL 8020' were 2/3 RAL 8000 - 1/3 RAL 7008. Do you know if this is correct or was it just  a 50/50 blend?

 

Do you know if there were any ratio's with 'later RAL 8020'  (RAL 8020 / RAL 7027)? 

Kind Regards

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, February 25, 2017 6:17 PM

Don't forget that lighting will affect how the color looks On here. Unless they are side by side in the same shot, the photo can be deceiving. Direct sunlight, indirect sunlight, fluorescent lightin, and incandescent lighting, will each give a different appearance to the exact same item. Add in flash photography and your results will differ again.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2016
  • From: Albany, New York
Posted by ManCityFan on Saturday, February 25, 2017 3:09 PM
No need to apologize. Nice build! The MM definitely looks more yellow. In looking at the video posted by JG, the MIG I sprayed looks closer to Life Color RAL 8020. I was hoping to find a Tamiya mix formula for RAL 8000, but couldn't find one. I have not tried Life Color,but it seems pretty popular.

Dwayne or Dman or just D.  All comments are welcome on my builds. 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Saturday, February 25, 2017 2:21 PM

Nice job on your Panzer,it's really interesting the different manufacturers takes on the same color.Here is a shot of my Tunisian Tiger and Modelmaster's take on 8000/7008

Don't want to hijack your thread on your very nice build,just showing how different their take is.

  • Member since
    September 2016
  • From: Albany, New York
Posted by ManCityFan on Saturday, February 25, 2017 2:07 PM
The color is very light, but pretty close to the overall dust effect I was going to shoot for. A brown wash or airbrushing brown panel edges might help darken it up. Maybe I didn't shake the bottle enough and left darker pigment in the bottom, but I did shake the hell out of it. It will be a bit before I can do some more work. Contractor starts Monday, and I blew out my back....again. Best they both happen at the same time, I guess.

Dwayne or Dman or just D.  All comments are welcome on my builds. 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, February 24, 2017 11:41 PM

Not to mention that if you're planning on weathering the little beast, the exact shade will be altered. The base coat is only a starting point.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Friday, February 24, 2017 10:22 PM

hmm, I'm not sure what to say.

That looks very grey brown to me, but lighting and digital cameras can alter things...  but if you are happy with it, that is what counts.  I just hope the bottles haven't been mislabelled, as AK Interactive has had some problems in that respect:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbwuq9q3VyA

 

---------------------------------------

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    September 2016
  • From: Albany, New York
Posted by ManCityFan on Friday, February 24, 2017 9:29 PM

So here are a couple of pictures of the tank in Mig's version of RLM 8000.

In looking at the color on my monitor, it looks a little darker than "real life".  I do like it, and decided against adding the second color in the tropen scheme.  Unfortunately, my workstation is in my basement in a corner, and that corner is having moisture issues.  A contractor is coming on Monday, and I needed to clear off the bench, and possibly re-construct it.  Huh?

Thanks for looking,

Dman

Dwayne or Dman or just D.  All comments are welcome on my builds. 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, February 8, 2017 8:33 AM

Good to see your up and running. Just grab what time you can.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Northeast WA State
Posted by armornut on Wednesday, February 8, 2017 8:31 AM

Looks good so far, totally get bench time dilemma, i too have several kits that need attention, I'm just not sure where to start LOL. 

we're modelers it's what we do

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, February 7, 2017 3:13 PM

An hour here and there of bench time is all that you'll need for this build. It's a quick simple kit to tackle.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2016
  • From: Albany, New York
Posted by ManCityFan on Tuesday, February 7, 2017 1:51 PM

Bish
 
armornut

Danke schoen Her Bish. Looks like we got this gentleman on his way to the dark side. (insert maniacal laughter here). Thanks also to all y'all who chimed in,  MCF please post pix when ya get the ball rolling. Happy modeling good sir.

 

 

 

Herzlich willkommen.

Ye, deffo post pics. It doesn't count unless we see evidence. Wink

 

Finally...Finally got some bench time, so here is the photographic evidence that this project has actually been started.  Paints should be coming this week, so if I can get some more time, you will see some progress.  Bench time is a big issue for me.  I can get an hour here and there, but getting more than that is tough.  Anyway, enough whining.  Here is the pic:

Thanks for all the posts and interest.  I have an FW 190 that has been sitting for a bit, and that needs attention as well. Confused

Dwayne or Dman or just D.  All comments are welcome on my builds. 

  • Member since
    December 2012
Posted by Ixion on Monday, February 6, 2017 7:31 PM

In my own defense for the crime of blurting out nonsense, I would like to say that these relics travel around the world far to easily for a multi-ton machine that hasn't run in 75 years. Below is the blurry photo I had in mind when I thought there was a Pz II at the Wheatcroft Collection, years later I found the high-resolution photos I just posted, thinking they were taken at Wheatcroft of an unrestored tank, due to the markings and rust. (Although I remembered seeing this photo, I had long forgotten the text);

http://www.network54.com/Forum/47211/thread/1169063137/The+Wheatcroft+Collection

Note the text states the Panzer II is from Munster, (from APG to Munster, via Trier for repairs?) on it's way back to APG, (2007). So...is it the same vehicle as the one at Ft Benning? Note this has the full length front fenders, not so on the Ft. Benning / ex-APD. Are people are adding / removing the fenders at different times?

The Wheatcroft Collection has a number of vehicles in various states of preservation, often with obscure histories. I know that museums like Munster, Sinsheim, Koblenz, the former APG, Saumur and others swap these vehicles around, so it's not always easy to know what you are looking at, all the time. Confused  Blurry photos + 10 years = blurry memories.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, February 6, 2017 5:50 PM

Ixion

Glad my imput wasn't a total loss. I usually to to make sure and double-check my references before I say something totally stupid, so much for winging it. Embarrassed

The trough is the antenna trough, used to store the antenna when not in use, it is made of wood.

While it probably isn't worth spending too much time trying to improve this kit, one easy thing you might add is the perforated heat shield on the muffler;

While not exactly to scale, simply cutting a piece of PE mesh to fit will do the job.

 

No friend, I was just thrilled at the prospect of a Panzer in storage somewhere in "as is" condition somewhere... now knowing it was part of a US Army collection and how things in those cleections are not usually kept historically accurate is just another day.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2016
  • From: Albany, New York
Posted by ManCityFan on Monday, February 6, 2017 5:21 PM
Thanks! I never would have guessed that.

Dwayne or Dman or just D.  All comments are welcome on my builds. 

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: .O-H-I-O....
Posted by DasBeav on Monday, February 6, 2017 4:46 PM

ManCityFan
 
Ixion

My bad, sorry, this isn't what I thought it was. I thought this was a Wheatcroft Collection vehicle. I forgot I even had the photos and I had to go back and look it up. This is the ex-Aberdeen vehicle, it currently resides at the National Armor and Cavalry Heritage Foundation at Fort Benning, Georgia. and yes, it's seen considerable work over the years;

http://www.armorfortheages.com/MilitaryVehicles/PzKpfwII/PzKpfwII.html

 Gotta quit trusting my memory and double check my sources before inserting my foot into my mouth. Dunce

 

 

 

Restored or not, that site is fantastic.  May not give me the exact paint color, but gives a nice reference in terms of whether or not the kit is accurate.  Many thanks for the link.  One question, does anyone know what the metal trough looking thing on the left side of the tank is?

 

I am no expert, but on my Panzer I Kommando, that's where the radio antenna goes when not in use. The pictures I have seen on a Panzer II it probably serves the same purpose. But what do I know, I'm a Tottenham Hotspurs fan.....Dunce

 Sooner Born...Buckeye Bred.

 

  • Member since
    December 2012
Posted by Ixion on Monday, February 6, 2017 4:45 PM

Glad my imput wasn't a total loss. I usually to to make sure and double-check my references before I say something totally stupid, so much for winging it. Embarrassed

The trough is the antenna trough, used to store the antenna when not in use, it is made of wood.

While it probably isn't worth spending too much time trying to improve this kit, one easy thing you might add is the perforated heat shield on the muffler;

While not exactly to scale, simply cutting a piece of PE mesh to fit will do the job.

  • Member since
    September 2016
  • From: Albany, New York
Posted by ManCityFan on Monday, February 6, 2017 3:16 PM

Ixion

My bad, sorry, this isn't what I thought it was. I thought this was a Wheatcroft Collection vehicle. I forgot I even had the photos and I had to go back and look it up. This is the ex-Aberdeen vehicle, it currently resides at the National Armor and Cavalry Heritage Foundation at Fort Benning, Georgia. and yes, it's seen considerable work over the years;

http://www.armorfortheages.com/MilitaryVehicles/PzKpfwII/PzKpfwII.html

 Gotta quit trusting my memory and double check my sources before inserting my foot into my mouth. Dunce

 

Restored or not, that site is fantastic.  May not give me the exact paint color, but gives a nice reference in terms of whether or not the kit is accurate.  Many thanks for the link.  One question, does anyone know what the metal trough looking thing on the left side of the tank is?

Dwayne or Dman or just D.  All comments are welcome on my builds. 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Monday, February 6, 2017 12:11 AM

I'm sorry too, that would of been cool to see a DAK vehicle in original paint. 

Wonder if that open hatch with the grey underside is original?

                                      

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    December 2012
Posted by Ixion on Sunday, February 5, 2017 11:37 PM

My bad, sorry, this isn't what I thought it was. I thought this was a Wheatcroft Collection vehicle. I forgot I even had the photos and I had to go back and look it up. This is the ex-Aberdeen vehicle, it currently resides at the National Armor and Cavalry Heritage Foundation at Fort Benning, Georgia. and yes, it's seen considerable work over the years;

http://www.armorfortheages.com/MilitaryVehicles/PzKpfwII/PzKpfwII.html

 Gotta quit trusting my memory and double check my sources before inserting my foot into my mouth. Dunce

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Sunday, February 5, 2017 11:25 PM

The 'unrestored' panzer II looks to be the one here at National Armor and Cavalry Museum, Fort Benning, GA:

http://the.shadock.free.fr/Surviving_Panzer_II.pdf

Going by the caption there, it actually might be the panzer in Tunisia photo I had linked that was captured by Americans.  It also states it was repainted before it was shipped over to the States.  I'd say we are seeing another repaint in museum form, sat outside, hence all the rust streaks.

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, February 5, 2017 9:21 PM

Is that Mk.II really unrestored?  And where has it been kept? Any history on that particula machine?

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2012
Posted by Ixion on Sunday, February 5, 2017 5:08 PM

I forgot I had these photos. An unrestored Ausf F from 15th Panzer Div. in overall RAL 8020. Note 15th Pz. symbol next to right tow hook.

Note the Panzer Grey on the insides of the engine hatches and the area behind the missing muffler, exhaust pipe flange area, driver's visor and the starter crank hole. Surprised to see even the convoy light lenses are still intact!

  • Member since
    January 2008
  • From: Austria
Posted by Byrden on Sunday, February 5, 2017 2:00 PM

Check out the Tiger at Bovington Museum, they have it painted 7008 over 8000. There are plenty of colour photos on the Web.

 

David

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, February 5, 2017 1:15 AM

CapnMac82
 
Bish
Do you guys really spell Grey with an a. Well i never spotted that.

 

There's a mnemonic:  "England withan 'e'; American with an 'a.'" to remember the spelling.

Our Canadian neighbors will append "colour" to keep it clear (the usof the Norman spelling of the ö dipthong as "ou" is consistant all acrss Canada).

 

Thanks. I knew about the U, can't miss that one on here, but didn't know about the a and e.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, February 5, 2017 1:13 AM

disastermaster
 
ManCityFan
You may be wondering why I am worrying about a $10 model, but want to set up good habits early by doing research and asking questions.

 

                                           http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/confused/puzzled-smiley-emoticon.gif
A great strategy that will serve you well in more expensive builds.

                                               

                                                   http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b232/gluetank/Animated/Disastermastermotion-3.gif

 

Yep, better to get these things sorted on a $10 model than a $70 one.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.