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Dragon 1/35 M46 WIP

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Dragon 1/35 M46 WIP
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, May 3, 2020 12:18 AM

 

 

A new project begins! So Cal AMPS has been doing a Patton family GB of all AFVs in the Patton family, and this is my first build for the project, DML’s (now known as Dragon) 1/35 M46.

 

 

I will be building mine in the markings of the US Army 6th Tank Battalion with their famous “tiger faces” worn during the counteroffensive of Winter/Spring 1951 to push the Chicom forces back across the 38th parallel after their devastating entry into the Korean War. This period saw what are without a doubt some of the most colorful looking tanks ever fielded by the US Army, and especially in combat.

 

 

Anyways, this afternoon I was able to complete steps 1 & 2, building all of the wheels and the transmission housing. I have built two previous related kits, DML’s T26E3 and M26A1 Pershing’s, which share many common parts, as all three tanks are very similar to one another. Each type is an evolutionary development from the previous model. So there are no real surprises for me to watch out for now.  

 

 

So far, so good...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, May 3, 2020 12:21 AM

Next progress report: 

Step 3, adding the road wheel arms, shock absorbers, and the transmission housing to the hull... there was a LOT of mold line clean up on all those parts, then making sure that the alignment is good getting all of them level and straight... note to self for the next Patton build, do the corner arms, then work inwards...

 

 

Step 4, adding all of the wheels and the plate under the engine.... again making sure alignment is proper. I left the sprocket wheels loose to aid in getting the tracks on. That’s one thing that I’ve learned for doing indy link non workable tracks....

 

 

 

Next steps are to get this area all pre painted in black and start on the tracks... tracks are gonna take a few days I’m sure...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, May 3, 2020 12:24 AM

Next update, the beginning of step 5.... tracks...

 

Each sprue has 44 track links and 44 Center guide teeth...

 

 

Here are 44 links assembled into lengths of sixes and fives... no center guide teeth added

 

 

After about 90+ minutes of needle file swipes and gluing I had 88 links completed into two runs of 24 and two runs of twenty, none with center guide teeth....

 

 

and that was enough for today... I find indy track links tedious and not enjoyable,,,, just like the real damn things, so I guess they get an A for results there...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, May 3, 2020 12:27 AM

Next update... more tracks... I completed the upper and lower flat run lengths... without center guide teeth. I figure at least another two days bench sessions before these tracks are completed...

 

 

Adding the center guides is gonna be the tedious part... 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Sunday, May 3, 2020 1:53 AM

I will be following you every step of the way Carlos. Now I can relate to how important it is to get the road wheel arms level.

Harold

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, May 3, 2020 2:10 AM

Sergeant

I will be following you every step of the way Carlos. Now I can relate to how important it is to get the road wheel arms level.

Harold

 

Good to have you following along! I bet you can appreciate alignment after your Ontos. Lots of things there for you to keep lined up!

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, May 3, 2020 9:12 AM

Nice looking subject, coming on well.

''I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so''

On the bench: Revell 1/72nd Type VIIc U-Boat

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Sunday, May 3, 2020 11:10 AM
Wow,great looking project,but those tracks do look tedious

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Denver
Posted by tankboy51 on Sunday, May 3, 2020 12:41 PM

I had good time with mine 23 years (or so), ago.  Man, I've been building models a LONG time.   

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Sunday, May 3, 2020 1:31 PM

Yeah, those tracks look good if painful!

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, May 3, 2020 1:58 PM

Tony, they are indeed as tedious as the look. And with still having to add the center guide teeth, I can’t even claim to be halfway done with them yet...

Tankboy 26 years since you have built this kit? Yes that is awhile. That’s about the same time as I built their M26A1 Pershing, since that was the first one that I scored.

Gamera, they will look good once completed. I’m not worried about that. In the long run, worth the effort.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, May 7, 2020 3:39 PM

So over the past few days I have done a couple sessions of adding the center guide teeth to the track runs that I’ve built so far...

 

1st session...

 

 

2nd session...

 

 

More to come in a few days

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Thursday, May 7, 2020 9:56 PM

Carlos, I would really like to use workable tracks on my next project. They look time consuming, but so much more realistic.

Harold

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Friday, May 8, 2020 9:41 AM

She's getting there! Yes

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, May 8, 2020 1:29 PM

Sarge, they are time consuming tracks indeed. But you really can’t beat their articulated look. 

Gamera, slow but sure she is getting there... 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, May 8, 2020 8:49 PM

Another session... more center guide teeth added, and a few short sections for the ends of the runs

 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, May 11, 2020 9:24 PM

Today I had a nice airbrush session in the morning before the day got too hot here. A nice coat of Tamiya Flat Black on the running gear

 

 

 

Tomorrow I can resume work on the guide teeth, and then work on installing the tracks after that...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Monday, May 11, 2020 10:16 PM

Carlos, I was going to ask if you paint your road wheels separate from the hull, but I can see what you're doing. So do you primer and paint the lower hull and wheels, or just prime before gluing the upper and lower hulls together?

Harold

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, May 11, 2020 10:39 PM

Sarge, this is more a weathering technique than a primer. I painted it back now to insure better coverage rather than after all the fenders and tracks are on. If this kit was not molded in light gray it would not be such a necessity now. 

It’s pretty much all gonna be earth tones when this is done.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Tuesday, May 12, 2020 12:18 AM

stikpusher

Sarge, this is more a weathering technique than a primer. I painted it back now to insure better coverage rather than after all the fenders and tracks are on. If this kit was not molded in light gray it would not be such a necessity now. 

It’s pretty much all gonna be earth tones when this is done.

 

I follow your thinking and it makes sense. I was planning to paint the road wheels and tracks separate from the hull on my new project. On the ONTOS I used light grey primer because that was what I used in the earlier paint tests to get USMC green. But it was difficult to cover in tight places with dark paint after the road wheels and drive sprockets were installed. I had to switch from using my spray gun to an air brush for the area under the fenders and under the 106mm guns. That caused a small amount of overspray on the rest of the paint.

Harold

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, May 12, 2020 7:39 AM

Looks good seeing her come together! 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, May 12, 2020 1:43 PM

Sarge, you can easily prime gray over the black for your top coat base. The main reason for this is to get all the shadow areas in black beforehand. Otherwise they tend to show up in the end.

Gamera, once I get these damned tracks on, the remaining assembly will go rapidly.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, May 16, 2020 2:30 PM

Success!!!

 

In my morning session yesterday, I was able to get the tracks on!

 

 

 

Now if you notice the three darker links on the upper run, there’s reason for that. After completing the one side, it looked to me that there would not be enough links for the opposite side, and the spare links to be stowed on the turret side. So I went into my spares bin, found the remaining links from my old M26A1 build, and added them to the second side. I was partially correct in that once it was all done, there only would have been two links left for the spares on the turret. But that is not something that you want to discover in the middle or end of adding the indy link tracks. 

 

 

Now the hardest part of this project is behind me...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Saturday, May 16, 2020 3:06 PM

stikpusher
 

Now the hardest part of this project is behind me...

 

Carlos, It turned out perfect, and who would have thought saving links from another kit would get the job done? It just go's to show keeping spare parts is a very good idea. 

Back when you gave me some sand shields for my M4A3 Sherman I remember thinking why did he have spare parts, now three years later I know the answer because I have a bunch of spare parts too.

Harold

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Saturday, May 16, 2020 3:23 PM

Yay Stik!  I absolutely HATE indy link tracks w/ end connectors and center guide teeth.  But nothing beats the look.  Well done man!

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Formerly Bryan, now Arlington, Texas
Posted by CapnMac82 on Saturday, May 16, 2020 4:32 PM

stikpusher

Step 3, adding the road wheel arms, shock absorbers, and the transmission housing to the hull... there was a LOT of mold line clean up on all those parts, then making sure that the alignment is good getting all of them level and straight... note to self for the next Patton build, do the corner arms, then work inwards...

 

 

So, I'm scrolling through to get down to the most recent comment, and this picture struck me.

All I could think about was the Shep Paine dio booklet in the Monogram kit and on how he went to some trouble to cut (one, I think) arm to show a road whee going over some bit of terrain on the dio.  (I also have this memory he used a carriage bolt to hold the kit to the dio, too.)

I needed that rememory.  Many thanks.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, May 16, 2020 4:33 PM

Thanks guys... doing the math that was 174 links total and 174 center guide teeth... I save all the extra parts off a kit... ya never know when they’ll come in useful. I built the M26A1 when it was first released back in the mid 90s, so those links have been with me a LONG time...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, May 16, 2020 4:40 PM

CapnMac82

 

 
stikpusher

Step 3, adding the road wheel arms, shock absorbers, and the transmission housing to the hull... there was a LOT of mold line clean up on all those parts, then making sure that the alignment is good getting all of them level and straight... note to self for the next Patton build, do the corner arms, then work inwards...

 

 

 

 

So, I'm scrolling through to get down to the most recent comment, and this picture struck me.

All I could think about was the Shep Paine dio booklet in the Monogram kit and on how he went to some trouble to cut (one, I think) arm to show a road whee going over some bit of terrain on the dio.  (I also have this memory he used a carriage bolt to hold the kit to the dio, too.)

I needed that rememory.  Many thanks.

 

Oh he did a lot more than just one.... good memories indeed....

 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, May 18, 2020 5:55 PM

Back on to building today!

 

Step 6, small details added to upper hull

 

 

Step 7 upper hull added to lower hull and more small details added on the glacis plate

 

 

I’m letting this dry overnight then on the next steps tomorrow...

 

 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Monday, May 18, 2020 8:51 PM

stikpusher
Back on to building today!

Step 7 upper hull added to lower hull and more small details added on the glacis plate

 

I’m letting this dry overnight then on the next steps tomorrow...

 

 

 

Carlos, when you painted the exterior of the lower hull with black primer were you able to keep paint off the surface where you glue the upper and lower hulls together? Do you think it matters? I've been under the impression that glue like Tamiya Extra Thin Cement can be contaminated if paint is present.

Harold

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