Hey team-
Since I spent many years on tanks in the field, I thought I would list a few "common" errors I see on a lot of finished projects.....don't worry, this
ain't criticism, we all strive for realism so here it is-
Track and Suspension:
A well weathered model that is depicted "in action" with "rust" on end connectors, center guides, etc.
NO! Only if we are sitting in the motorpool or by the side of the road for a week should any oxidizing to track components be depicted. Whether in soft mud ,sand, or running on the "hardball", from Europe to the Sahara, end connectors, center guides, and sprocket teeth will be as shiny as a new dime on bearing surfaces.
U.S. ,NATO, (or other) armor with rubberized track pads- a model depicted in service with battle damage, extreme weathering etc., but no "chunked" pads? Depending on the last track change (a bear of a job, by the way), these pads rip, tear,chunk, etc., sometimes even showing the track block pins. This is commonly overlooked and is important for absolute realism. Most reference photos of tanks in service can be deceiving, the track blocks that are visible may look perfectly intact.
Road wheels on certain tanks have "wear plates" bolted to the inside surface. These wear plates are associated with the cast aluminum roadwheels which are on most modern MBT's. The wear plates are steel and the purpose is to keep the center guides from gouging the aluminum and destroying the roadwheel. Every tank that has ever made a turn should be depicted with radial gouges (natural metal) on the inboard surfaces of all roadwheels and idlers. If you've ever wondered what the extra bolt pattern was for outside of the attachment to the hub - it's the wear plates - important for accuracy especially on larger scales! NOTE: even steel roadwheels should show radial scoring on the inboard surface that contacts the centerguides. Cast or Forged steel roadwheels usually have increased material thickness in this area to withstand wear.
Tools! my pet peave... External stowage of axes, mattox, hammers, track jacks, prybars- well, this is OK (German Armor) but..... the rule is, usually if you strap it to the hull you will lose it. I know, I know, we see a lot of photos (and models)showing this stuff roped, chained, and tied to the sides and rear of the hull. The point is, what situation are we trying to depict.? Usually, when you are not expecting combat and are road marching, etc., and you have a lot of stuff, yeah, you'll strap it on antwhere it will fit. But, into action, it get's dropped in place or is stowed in sponson boxes or out of the way on the turret bustle, etc. NEVER do we leave our precious tools outside strapped to the hull or turret to get mutilated, lost, damaged,or gummed up with goo to make them unserviceable. The worst thing in the world is having thrown a track, sheared a sprocket, blown a road wheel and have to work with tools that are dirty, rusted, etc.. you get the idea.
Upper Hull:
Tow cables usually rust only when used (a lot). Normaly, when you are in a situation where you must perform recovery, you've got help (M88, etc.) Since the tow cables on the tank are somewhat difficult to unclamp, (clamps are secured by bolts, they become corroded, etc.) the recovery vehicles cables are what are usually put into play. New cables are coated with a thick coat of corrosion resitant material and withstand the elements well.
Equipment (standard issue or otherwise) on the hull should never be located blocking back deck access doors, grill doors or fuel caps. No tanker in his right mind would stow anything in the way of accessing his engine compartment or fuel tanks. Fueling is a risky business in combat. You are relatively and most times exposed, immobile and vulnerable. Fueling is quick and sloppy. There should be plenty of stains around those fuel caps!
Fenders, skirts. etc. Even the most expert driver will inevitably break ,bend, dent, or tear off these babies. Most fender damage is from running into trees. A common practice when "loggering" up for the night, blacked out, backing into a woodline and crunch! Abrams, Challenger, Leopard guys, don't put dents in the "special armor" skirts, these bad boys do not bend! Abrams front fenders are aluminum alloy and are quite sloppy fit wise. It's easy to misbuild with kits that commonly mold these into the hull detail as if they were steel. These fenders should be sawn off and refitted with gaps readily visible, and let's not forget the retention spring (wire) that locks them into place. These are omitted on many projects. This is "L" shaped spring steel that lays across the fender and locks under tension in a bracket on the front slope. A must for absolute detail on the front slope.
That's it for now, turret and interior info tomorrow.......
Keep moving, shooting and communicating!
Steve