Hand Painted Numbers vs Decals

Excellent information as usual. Thanks to everybody for their suggestions. Since I'm just starting out of the gate in my modeling career, I may try the decals. I did check out the transfers and I'm sure that's the way I will go on my next model along with better tracks and a one piece barrel. Once again, you folks have been a big help. Thanks again. A.D.

I used a homemade stencil for the two tone numbers and the balkancrueze for my Tiger. I used the stencil to paint the red interior of the number and then hand painted the white outlines.

Okieboy

QUOTE: Originally posted by jessiahkinnamon If you were going to paint them , I don't know if anyone has suggested stencil's would be a good way to go.

I obtained at set of templates (stencil's) many years ago for German crosses that worked well on zimmerit finishes. The templates were manufacturered by Verlinden, and although I can't be sure I think they also had a set for numbers.

Painting two-tone numbers is not that hard really... The key is to work with thinned down paints. This helps application, keep the insigna very flat and thin, and already gives a bit of weathered look with a touch of base color showing through...

I start with the color that outline the number, but I paint the whole thing rather than just an outline. On Zimmerit, errors are 'allowed'. After all, even if airbrushed on the real thing, there would have been paint splilling under the stencil... Once the paint is dry I then add in the 'inside' color. Since there is a 'line' to follow, it is easier to do this stage than the first one. Glarring mistakes can the be corrected with paint or scrapped away with a cocktail stick. I normally use enamels for this as up to a certain point, it is easy to scrape minute amount of paint with a cocktail stick and correct little mistakes.

I'm looking intentively at the answers to this question, because I'm about to be presented with the same delema. If the solvaset doesn't work for me, I'll (somehow) knock off the decal and use dry transfers or a stencil. I don't know about hand painting. It may turn out too rugged.

Dry transfers are more expensive than a couple of jars of paint. Yet usually you get enough on a sheet to use on several models, so maybe the cost isn't so bad. They are, however, quick to put on once you get the hang of them.

Glenn

I used a combination on my late Tiger (Ital kit) painting the turret #'s on and using the kit supplied crosses for the hull and the ruffing them up a bit with a brush to give it a more hand applied look.
http://img1.photobucket.com/albums/1003/cplchilly/?action=view¤t=bills_models_040.jpg

Other than painted on, dry transfers are the only way to go. No silvering, no decal film, no paint mistakes, no Future, no problem.

If you were going to paint them , I don't know if anyone has suggested stencil's would be a good way to go.

I haven't tried the dry transfers yet, but I may the next zimmed tank I do. As for hand painting, I would try the mono-colored numbers, but the two color numbers scare me.

Hey if it works for ya JWest, go with it. I personally found that Dry Transfers work the best if you do not want to hand paint..

Cheers

Mo

I used kit decals soaked liberally in Testors setting solution (complex surface one) on Cavalier zimmerit and it turned out good. I first painted the surface with future. Then after the decals went on, I used a stiff brush soaked in setting solution to jab the decal into the zimmerit. After a flat coat, there was just one little portion that silvered, which was trimmed off with an exacto knife.

Kit decals are basically a no no on Zimmerit. I have had great success with Archer and Verlinden Dry Transfers and I highly recommend them. Of course hand painting is perfectly fine if you wantto go that course, but you will receive much better results with a Dry Transfer. All you need to do is burniosh it until it comes of the top coat, then coat it with Micro-sol, with a final coat of Miro-set to seal it.

The markings on the Tiger I are dry transfers over the hand made zim.



Cheers

Mo

I always paint my numbers and insignas on AFVs. Can't bear the thought of silvering..! On smaller scales, the decal's film often show up too much too..

I agree with okieboy solva set is the best way to go.There are other ways like dry transfer decals or hand painting.The solva-set thought will soften the decal into the cracks for that realistic look.You use it after you just applyed the decal,use a q-tip to dry up the water that is left after you applied the decal. This will help the decal to into the cracks.Then apply the solva-set in a light application and use a q-tip after a few seconds when the solva-set has had time.You will be amaized at the resluts.Digger

Hi Apache,

I've used Zimm-it-rite too. When I built my Tiger I, I had to air brush the numbers and Balkan crosses on because my ridges were so deep. If you sand the zimm down by hand a bit you should be able to apply decals. If you try this, I would recommend buying a bottle of "Solva-set" to apply to the decals once you have them in place. This will help suck the decal into the nooks and crannies of the surface and seal it in. Good luck.

Okieboy