M3 Lee Progress(looking for guidance)

QUOTE: Originally posted by Embark Thank you all for the comments. I am very proud of this build especially for being the first one I have completed. I can definitely say I am hooked on this. I went out and spent more money than I should have on equipment for my future builds. I got a craftsmen 1.5 hp 3 gallon compressor and a paasche vl airbrush. Along with some nice sprue cutters and other odds and ends. The thing that killed me most was all the paint I bought. That stuff gets expensive at 2.59 a bottle. My wife is pretty supportive thankfully. She is just glad that I finally found something to do with my sparetime other than play computer games. I just need to learn how to paint figures more realistically and apply what I learned on this build to future ones and before too long I think I will be up there with some of the better builders. Thanks again for everything Ben

I think alot of wives are glad their husbands take up the hobby, for it keeps them grounded and out of the bars. LOL

Nice finish on this one embark! Each model build in the realm of weathering is always a learning experience (and the ones you learn on the most are likely to also be the most enjoyable, at least they are for me!) and all of us go through that process on a continuing basis. Glad to hear that modelling has it's hooks in you, you know that once you start down this path, forever will it dominate your destiny...whoops wrong forum.

Keep it up, don't burn out, and remember to have fun!

Go buy yourself a bucket of the little Army men to practice on. A few bucks for 100. Plenty of practice ! I still have a couple of the ones I learned on many, many years ago.

You are lucky, my wife only wants me off the computer games so she can play!

Thank you all for the comments. I am very proud of this build especially for being the first one I have completed. I can definitely say I am hooked on this. I went out and spent more money than I should have on equipment for my future builds. I got a craftsmen 1.5 hp 3 gallon compressor and a paasche vl airbrush. Along with some nice sprue cutters and other odds and ends. The thing that killed me most was all the paint I bought. That stuff gets expensive at 2.59 a bottle. My wife is pretty supportive thankfully. She is just glad that I finally found something to do with my sparetime other than play computer games. I just need to learn how to paint figures more realistically and apply what I learned on this build to future ones and before too long I think I will be up there with some of the better builders.

Thanks again for everything
Ben

Superb!
Tanker3 is right about the tracks on the old Tamiya kit, but I wouldn't worry too much about 'em. They look good as is!
As an aside, Tamiya didn't make a mistake, they consciously chose to mold the tracks like that for improved flexibility. If they had molded them correctly (with the end connectors in between each track shoe), the tracks would have been too stiff (like the infamously stiff Testors/Italeri M4A1 tracks) with the vinyl used in those days. With today's modern flexible plastics, Tamiya's newer kits feature accurately molded tracks.

You have done a great job on this kit Ben,be proud,very proud of what you have done.I like the way you weathered it exspeically the tow cable and the way you aged it.Digger

Take a break Ben you deserve it. I guarantee the Pak 40 will be a bit easier on you.

The track is the correct style, but the ends that hold each track shoe is suppose to hold two shoes together, not on each shoe. If you have an Italeri track you will see what I mean. This cannot be fixed, unless you willing to cut off each connector, off-set and re-attach.

Looking mighty fine to me, keep up the good work!

Ok this is the latest and greatest. Hopefully it looks somewhat believable. I think I am going to take a break from this one for a little bit. I am starting to get a little burnt out from playing with it so much. My next project will be the 1/35 Tamiya PAK 40. As always comments and critisisms are welcome






Thanks for all your suggestions and help with this build
Ben

Very Good Embark....some weathering with pastel chalk and warning ... the uniform is brightness...use some matt varnish
That´s it...congratulations...
Cheers

Tanker3,
I found this website that has some pictures of both lees and grants.http://anzacsteel.hobbyvista.com/Armoured%20Vehicles/m3ph_1.htm
http://anzacsteel.hobbyvista.com/Armoured%20Vehicles/Images/leeph_1.jpg

Looking at the tracks they seem to be the same ones that I have modelled. If there is something small I am missing, please let me know and I will see what I can do to make it as accurate as possible. I appreciate you bringing this to my attention but since I am not the grog that some others in this forum seem to be, I cannot tell a difference.

Thanks Again
Ben

Do not want to rain on your parade, but......

Well, you have done an EXCELLENT job on the model and weathering, but the tracks are wrong. The ends of the tracks are suppose to between the shoes, not on each shoe. Tamiya messed-up!!!

If you want to be "acurrate" get a set of tracks from the Testors/Italeri kit. Much more accurate. If I can find my tracks from my M4 I will let you have them. I dropped my Sherman long time ago and it broke. So I do not need the tracks.

Digger,
Yeah I did go back and painted all the tools and the MG barels. The effect is pretty good so far. I painted the barrels flat black and brushed on some Model Master gunmetal which looks pretty convincing. I had to pry off the the tools and paint them. The ones I couldn't get off I painted while still attached. I also went out and got some cloth at the craft store and painted it a brownish tan color. I pulled some of the thread out of the cloth and painted that a slightly darker shade of brown and made covers for both the main guns. I sprayed the mix of future and flat coat that you guys suggested earlier but it still have a slight sheen to it. I might have to go back over it with nothing but the flat coat although I dont know whether I should thin it out or not. The tracks are also on now too but they arent finished with the weathering effects.

Thanks again for the reply

Ben

Embark,so far so good.The decals that you have on there go perfect with the Phillpines during the begining of the war also the mud affect.Now you need to do is to add some bare steel and rust around the handles,revits and on the underside of the front mantel of the sprockets.You also need to paint your cable steel and while it is still wet,take a dry brush of rust and work it in good to show a weathering affects on steel.The same gos for the tools on the parts that get used all the time.Also take some wood or tan color and dry brush it on the tool handles,like the axe,shovel and ect..this shows some useage.Use steel to paint your mg barrels and while wet with a medium dry brush add some ft.black to it and mix it good.As far as the tracks go paint them steel and while wet brush in some rust with a dry brush on the outside edges and inbetween the rubber blocks.Don't do the inside of the tracks with rust as the road wheels and sprockets al ways were the rust out.To daul down the steel and rust use a very thined out wash of ft.black and this will dual it down,use your wash on the inside of the tracks to.Once this is done you can drity it up some more to your liking and watch the majic happen.Remember you cannot drity a tank up enoughf,they alway look drity just like a semi going down the road during winter.Digger

Personally, I think that tank would look great as if it was coming from the Burma campaign. It looks so much like some pics of tanks I've seen from there. So, in reference to that Theater of Operations, I do believe that you've achieved Perfection!

I think you've done a fine job building your Lee, and you've been open to suggestions and techniques that will go along ways in improving what you have already accomplished. We all want to build that perfect model so you are not alone in being your own worst judge of our work. Like the guys said, you're on the right track and for someone with first time experience, you've done just great. Your skills will improve and this project is just the beginning. Enjoy your modelling and don't take yourself to seriously. Look forward to seeing more of your work and watching you grow with the rest of us. Semper Fi, mike

No such thing as mistakes in modelling!
Only "opportunities!"
I think your build looks fine so far, Ben. I don't think a tank can ever be "too dirty," although, like Tigerman, I rarely "muddy up" my vehicles. I like dusty!

Keep up the good work, and please let us see your Lee when you're finished.

Well at this point I am not really sure. I just wanted to make this thing look as good as I possible can. Knowing that I cannot go back to a clean tank ....I just wanted to make the best of a bad situation. Or do you think it best to just leave well enough alone and look to future builds to apply the things I learned on this one. I guess what I am trying to say is I think I am my own worst critic...I wanted this thing to turn out perfect and when I made a mistake I feel like I let myself down a bit...I know that sounds a little stupid so maybe I should just lighten up. I will get it right one of these builds lol

Nice job for your first build. Whilst there were some areas in North Africa that got a little muddy (usually near oasis) the boys are right about the amount you have on your vehicle, but not to worry. Mud usually congregates around the track area, mudguards, rear hull, etc. If the vehicle is following closely behind another, mud will be thrown up all over the front hull, and depending how high, the turret might get a splash. The track face will usuallt have mud in teh recessed areas, but the tread plate/riser/cleats would be relatively clean - just watch a bulldozer operate next time you see one.

You might consider a little mud in the spoked area of the road wheels, as the tracks would not scrape that away.

Unless the vehicle is still travelling in thick mud, the face of the road wheels would be a muddy colour, but rolling over the tracks would ensure only a thin flat layer of mud would adhere.

Thanks for showing us the pics.

Well, I myself have never done a muddy tank, but my observations say that the lower hull, especially the track area, would be cakey mud so to speak. I don't think the mud would have gotten all over the turret and upper hull area, though I suppose some might. You are headed in the right direction. Are you planning on a diorama?

Tigerman,
I appreciate your kind words and constructive critisism. One question for you. I understand that I overdid the effect a bit for this to be placed in the North Afrikan Theatre. But since I cannot seem to reverse the effects, does the job look convincing of a muddy tank? I thought that if I caked it a little bit more and a bit darker around the wheels and the bottom of the hull that I would be able to take a mistake I made and make the best of it.

Again I appreciate everyones comments and suggestions. I am very proud of this tank even if it isnt perfect. The only other thing I have ever put together was a revell 1/48 P40 and you all dont even want to see that thing. I built it in something like 2 hours and brush painted it all silver lol.

Fine job Ben, I agree with Bill's comments on the weathering. Still, you're doing well for your first armor model. Keep it up.

Well I have added the mix of future and flat coat that petbat suggested and put the tracks on. I took all the tools off of the tank and painted them. I also added some "burlap" looking covers to both the main guns. When everything dries up and I can tone down the shine a little I wll post pics of the results.

Wbill76,
Thank you for your comments. I agree that I may seem to have overdone the look a little bit but I still have a flat clear coat to spray over this one so it may tone it down somewhat. All of this really has been a learning experience for me and I tried out as many different types of weathering on this model as I thought I could get away with. My next one is going to be an M3 Stuart. I think I will be able to take what I have learned here and do great things with that one. All in all I really don't know where to go from here on this model. I think I will take a break for a couple of days and look at some pictures to get a better idea.

Embark,

Looks like you are definitely making some good progress! The only thing I'd mention is that the North African theater (Tunisia, Kasserine Pass) where the American units operated was a relatively dry desert climate. I thought you'd captured the dry dusty look very well in your first set of weathering pics. The second set looks more of the muddy/crusty look you might see from operating in wetter conditions. Somewhere in the middle is probably best if you still intend to place this one in the NA theater. Just my 2 cents, you've done an excellent job on the weathering and painting in general.

Glue has a big problem bonding with paint. I just scrape the paint off of where the 2 parts come togather. I use all my wifes old emory boards to do my sanding. You know the ones with the 6 different grits on them. Makes life much easier.

Yes, i am pleased with your dirt effect as well.

I guess i am in a corner with the tools and roadwheels... Ill try to make do when my new airbrush gets here.

So glue doesnt have a problem sticking to paint? I guess the basic 101 parts of painting just flew right over my head. :)

Keep up the great work. When i do mine, i will post some pics so you can help me out.

DrewBlue,
It's hard to tell what to paint when sometimes. Especially being new like me. I can tell you from putting this thing togather that I would paint the wheels before you assemble them. Also leave off all of the tools till last. Then when you get everything else togather paint it the base coat color. The olive drab is pretty easy because there is no camo scheme. With this model I wanted to make it look like it was in the North African Theatre and I plan on trying to put it in some sort of diorama. Thats why I laid the dirt on so thick. I am pretty pleased with the results so far.