Weathering Tutorial--the doog's DML HETZER

Doog........................WOW. Thank you for being so accessible. I can't wait to apply your methods!

Scott

On the antenna, make sure that you use a nickel-wound (not brass-that's acoustic) electric gtr. string!

ok thank you :) im going to research yours and il go to the airbrush forumes and get some info. thank you

adam

EliteModelling wrote:

hi  I am just wondering what air brush compressor so you use? im going to buy myself a compressor soon. is the higher fps better? thank you adam

I would strongly advise you to go to the AIrbrush forums here and research your question there--use the search feature, or just post a question.

hi

 I am just wondering what air brush compressor so you use? im going to buy myself a compressor soon. is the higher fps better? thank you

adam

Doog, thanks for the feedback and explanation.

Will try it with a flatcoat in place and without one in place until I find the one that works for me or suits the finish I want for the specific kit etc.

 Thanks again

osjohnm wrote:

Hi Doog "After sealing the model with some rattle-can dullcaot and letting dry overnight, I set about doing the "dot" step" Is this rattle-can water/acrylic based or lacquer based? Thanks

lexesbenz is correct--I believe that I used regular Testor's Dullcoat. Usually I use Model Master acrylic dull coat if I use a clear coat at all--I'm well known on this site for not endorsing the use--or I should say "overuse"--of clear coats. I very often do not apply a final clear coat at all. And I do not usuallly clear coat to "protect" the finish before washes, weathering, etc.In this case, I believe I did it to secure and protect the subtle wash effects.

Thanks, also, the new posters who have left comments in this thread! I'm glad to see that it continues to be a source of information for the "new guys"! 

Doog, once again I'm "Gobsmacked". Thank you for putting the time and effort into this.

It will be very useful to me as I have a long way to go on finishing..Cheers...Kenny

Hi Doog

Thank you for a great step-by-step tutorial.

I read this article when you first published it but I've only recently built up the courage to try it.

With regards to your following statement:
"After sealing the model with some rattle-can dullcaot and letting dry overnight, I set about doing the "dot" step"

Is this rattle-can water/acrylic based or lacquer based?

Thanks

Doog, after reading this Im busting out the Eduard Hetzer adn going to town.  Outstandng tutorial m friend and will apply some of the techniques you have described. 

Thank you

Bob

Cuddles wrote:

Hello Doog: I just registered & I should add that I registered just to thank you for your tutorials on weathering.   I have been modelling armour most of my life and am only now really getting into the proper aspects of weathering.  I had an article in the July 1994 issue of Finescale on an 05 train called 'Partisans'. I have won a few 'best of show's and pretty much retired from the competition curcuit.  It didn't take too long to discover how political the competions were.  Once someone had a name, others were placed accordingly (2nd, 3rd, etc.).  And it was clear that some of the others were very good! So now I build purely for the pleasure.  And with that in mind, I found your article.  What a treat.  I wil attempt to follow the steps for weathering as you laid them out.  I only have a dozen or so projects on the go (the curse of this hobby) at present but I'm anxious to apply your methods in future. Again, thank you very much for your time and effort with the tutorial.  I am looking forward to returning the favour someday, if I can. ps:As this is my first post, I am unfamiliar with the surroundings. I will attempt to send a few photos when I figure out how and perhaps add a picture/photo to identify myself in postings.

Hello Doog: I just registered & I should add that I registered just to thank you for your tutorials on weathering.

  I have been modelling armour most of my life and am only now really getting into the proper aspects of weathering.  I had an article in the July 1994 issue of Finescale on an 05 train called 'Partisans'. I have won a few 'best of show's and pretty much retired from the competition curcuit.  It didn't take too long to discover how political the competions were.  Once someone had a name, others were placed accordingly (2nd, 3rd, etc.).  And it was clear that some of the others were very good!

So now I build purely for the pleasure.  And with that in mind, I found your article.  What a treat.  I wil attempt to follow the steps for weathering as you laid them out.  I only have a dozen or so projects on the go (the curse of this hobby) at present but I'm anxious to apply your methods in future.

Again, thank you very much for your time and effort with the tutorial.  I am looking forward to returning the favour someday, if I can.

ps:As this is my first post, I am unfamiliar with the surroundings. I will attempt to send a few photos when I figure out how and perhaps add a picture/photo to identify myself in postings.

Thanks, Bushi---I don't know if anyone is carrying it around here, but it's good to see what it looks like!

Not that I use a ton of it. lol!

Hey Doog

Here is what the new packaging looks like. Hope this helps. The upper right corner of label says it all.

Bushi

vector123 wrote:

o ya um another qestion do you know of any companys that make a hetzer in 1/35th scale?

Eduard makes both a mid and late version, which come with full interiors, bot the y are both out-of-production. You can catch them on eBay for around $50-60.00.

There are still even old Italeri kits that you can still find on eBay for cheap.

Also, Tamiya came out wih an excellent one just a few months ago. These are still easy to get at around $45-50.00

I'd recommend it, but be aware that there are some problems with it, especially the inner wheels-they have no bolt detail whatsoever, and are hollow. Other than that, it can be built up into a reasonably nice kit.

A little bit of PE really dresses it up. You might also use wheels from another pz38(t)-based kit; there are tons of them out there these days...

OK sounds good.

vector123 wrote:

for the color dots do you let it dry?

dupes wrote:

Doog, have you tried Wal-Mart? I know that's where I scored mine.

Just to add to the glosscoat debate, it may be worth noting that not all acrylic paints are created equal.

I also don't gloss coat over Tamiya acrylics and have had satisfactory results with the oils+thinner mix that I am currently using. However, in experimenting, I have found that the same mix, while it has no ill effects on Tamiya acrylics, will attack Gunze acrylics.

I haven't as yet used Gunze as a primary coat, but it's worth keeping in mind for future reference.

RickLawler wrote:

It's readily available here in the supermarkets, in the household section with the dust spray and floor mops. Later, Rick

Ye gods hath spoken:

"NO  'FUTURE'   FOR  THE   DOOG!" ................

Proof, Doog that everyone has their own techniques... the tricks that work for them.

"I actually tried to find some Future here in the area stores, but have had no luck."

It's readily available here in the supermarkets, in the household section with the dust spray and floor mops.

Later,

Rick