PANZER INTERIOR COLORS

A light buff or ivory color.  Make sure that you paint the interior of all hatches the same color as the exterior, ie: dark gray / dark gray, dark yellow / dark yellow.

I did a lot of research for this when reseaching for my Pazner IV in "SPOOKED!".

Generally the interiors where that ivory color--later in the war, there was a brief period when they tried leaving some interiors in primer red, but the crews complained so much about lack of visibility that they changed back to off-white 

The interior from the sponson down was a very light blue. From the sponsons up was ivory. As mentioned all hatches on the interior were painted the outside color. Around the visors (interior) were painted black.

Best Regards,

               Mark

Read this article, it will help;

http://byrden.com/panzers/Colours/

There is no "one size fits all" color, it all depends on which time period you are modeling.

Allthough the RAL standard actually is an exact sience there is no single answer that will stand unquestioned.
The RAL standard has changed, the remaining tanks have been repainted, our monitors and GFX cards do not repliacte the digital information in the same way from brand to brand.

I used to paint my tank interior flat white for many years.
The inside of the hatches to
Until someone pointed out that the colour should be "Elfenbein".
I couldn't find any matches on the internet back in the early ninties so I decided to go for a mix of Tamiya Deck Tan and White.
Tamiya Deck Tan is a fare match to RAL 7001 RAL 1001 paint chips but it looks wrong, that is why I add white.

For the lower interior and anything that has not got a colour identified I go for Tamiya XF22 RLM Grey, not a true match to RAL 7009 but it works.
I use Tamiya XF22 for RLM02 to but I think it is indeed a little bit to greenish.
For Oxcide Red I simply use a mix of Red and Redbrown.

Very Best Regards
Johan

Corrected: RAL #, sry for the confusion.

I am using Xtracrylixs 818 for my StuG interior.
Please note the 2 blind spots.

This is true Acrylic coulour, if there is any grease it will just not bond.
Instructions tell that you could thin with water.
I am going to test Isoprop just to see if it is stil as exposed to grease as before.

Anyway, I like the Elfenbein, this is how I thought it would look.

Boarder

Three pages of replies here:

 /search/SearchResults.aspx?q=PANZER INTERIOR COLORS&f=&u=

                                                                        Steve 

 The use of Grey-Green, RAL 7009, was discontinued after late 1942 as an interior color, however, stockpiled parts could still be found in this color at later dates, this according to; http://byrden.com/panzers/Colours/. I'm certain however, that I have seen this color on parts of much later vehicles, (the Littlefield Panther A restoration in particular comes to mind, as well as some of the other museum pieces I saw in Germany). It is a standard color for all sorts of equipment, (esp. railroad and electrical equipment), in Germany to the present day. I'm a little wary of Mr. Byrden's date on this subject.

For completely open vehicles, like a SdKfz 251/1, etc., everything visible inside would be painted the same as the exterior, except the gauges, seat covers, steering wheel, and various knobs. I have color photos of both early and late model 251s that have been fully restored, with completely Panzer Grey or dark yellow interiors respectively. Apparently there may have been some very early open topped vehicles that had Elfenbein driver's compartments, but this was quickly dropped, as it compromised the vehicle's camouflage from the air. I have not personally seen photos of this however.

SdKfz 234 series gets tricky. There is a 4 month period between Sept. 1944 through Dec. 1944 that the use of Elfenbein was discontinued and everything (but the knobs, steering wheel, etc.) was left in Red Oxide Primer. This period of red oxide interiors lands squarely in the middle of 234 series production, so it is possible to find them with completely red interiors. The 234/4 I saw at Munster had a completely red interior, at least what I could see, except for those parts, like the gun shield and upper superstructure interior, which was dark yellow.

Once the lunacy of red interiors ended in Dec. of 44, Elfenbein was re-instated for closed-top AFV interiors. This would include about 1 month worth of production of the 234/1 in Jan 1945. These would have dark yellow turret interiors, but Elfenbein interior walls and red oxide floors.....Theoretically.

What are your thoughts on RAL 7001 Kykeon?
(Edited: RAL 1001, RAL1001, RAL 1001, RAL 1001, thx)

The pictures bellow are from the:
"Sturmgeschutz III Ausf. G Walk Around, Squadron/Signal Publications Armor Walk Around Number 2" and are posted for discussion purpose only.

Hope you don't mind Espins!

To the question about the label on the box:
Tamiya = Trustworthy, well engineered, a bit expensive.
DML = Complex, well detailed with extensive use of slide moldings, lots of goodies, interesting instructions, more than a bit heavy on German WWII Armor, lots of parts for your money.
AFV = Complex, excellent detail, fragile parts. Excellent and accurate detail at low cost.
Tristar = I only have 1 kit experience.
Italeri = Interesting subjects, not the best kits. low price tag but gap filling is expensive if you start counting your hours.
Trumpeter = Good value for money, fairly detailed and adequate, Chinese to English translations on box art and instructions are, well, fun :)

Then again, thats just my

Thanks again Scott and congratulations!

As allways
Boarder

RAL 7001 is Silver-grey, are you sure you don't mean RAL 1001, which is Elfenbein. I have not seen any references relating to RAL 7001 being used as a interior color, where did you see this?

The article I posted above makes a obscure reference to another "beige" color, could this be what they are referencing?

I have to book from which you posted them photos. It appears that someone, at some point in the past, has randomly touched up the rusty spots with white paint. There are drips and splashes of it on other parts.

I must be missing something about how the Xtracrylicx XA1818 is supposed to work .
This is taken after a firm wash in tap water, cleaning the parts in a bath of hot water and liquid soap and then off to a warm water rinse.
Brush applied, no solvents:

I am obviouesly dooing something wrong; but what???

As allways

Boarder

Prime with Tamiya acrylics is my vote

Here's a question- how much of the interior of an open topped vehicle, say a 251, would get resprayed if the crew is going from an early grey paintjob to a tropical sand colored overspray?

Is this an area for creative interpretation or were crews fairly thorough in these coverup repaints?

Kykeon wrote:

It most likely would not be repainted in the interior at all. There are numerous photos that show this was common practice.

I wondered about this too and while modeling a DAK 251 I carefully read some DAK specific reference books which indicated that it was realized that the grey interiors were too much contrast for being spotted from the air so they were also painted? I'm sure variations existed as with everything though?