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Can I / should I seal decals with Testor's Gloss coat?

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14 replies
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  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Portland, Oregon
Posted by fantacmet on Tuesday, August 26, 2008 2:43 PM
You got that paint job perfect for replicating the 1:1.  It's not like glass but it's not orange peel either.  Balancing act that is very tough to pull off but you did it.  Mopar kits lend themselves to some of the best detailing out there.  I need to get ahold of another 69 Dart GTS kit one of these days.

    

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Jacksonville, FL
Posted by metalhead5 on Tuesday, August 26, 2008 6:20 AM
Looking good Doog. Looking forward to seeing this one done.
  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Monday, August 25, 2008 10:13 PM

Thanks, Michael, and Tom--I've managed to get a coat of gloss on it and I think it's looking fine! A little bit of polish and wax will finish her up just great!

 

I appreciate all the great advice from everyone--I knew I could count on you all! Big Smile [:D]

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Jacksonville, FL
Posted by metalhead5 on Monday, August 25, 2008 11:12 AM

Doog if your worried about the decals, test one of the extra decals from the set with the clear coat over the top and see how it turns out. Another method that I learned from an armor guy, is after you soak the decal in the water, remove it from the backing paper and dip the decal in some Future and then put it on oyur model. but first remove the access Future from the decal and now you have a sealed decal with a gloss finish. Hope this helps.

Tom 

 

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Portland, Oregon
Posted by fantacmet on Sunday, August 24, 2008 3:29 AM

You know a thin coat of wax would protect the decals(I've used meguirs and turtlewax both safely), and won't really change the difference in sheen between the decals and the car much.  both the paint and decals will be shinier, but the decals will still be more flat.

Although(I may have photo's to prove this as well), if I remember correctly from the cruisein car show 2 blocks away a few weeks back, the decals on the mopars didn't appear to be flat in comparison to the paint job.  I will look though, and if I have any photo's I will post them for you.

Well I found one pic that shows decal(maybe paint) up close.  From a distance of a few feet to the right of the green mopar is another one with an actual decal stripe and it doesn't appear to be a different sheen then the rest of the car.  Although it's tough to tell because of the high sunlight.  Also because the stripe is white, but maybe you can save the pics and play around with the lighting in photoshop or lightroom or something to get a better idea.  If you want the full res pics just e-mail me directly(you should still have my e-mail addy) and I will send the two pics to you.

    

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Saturday, August 23, 2008 5:51 PM

Thanks, Gino, and Niclas--I guess I'll lay down a light coat with my airbrush then...

Thanks for all the help, everyone! Big Smile [:D]

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Saturday, August 23, 2008 8:24 AM
You should always seal your decals, esp. if you are in an area where the humidity changes.  If left unsealed, they will eventually come off.  Testors Glosscote works fine, as will Future, and many other brands.

Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!

Check out my Gallery: https://app.photobucket.com/u/HeavyArty

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Falun, Sweden
Posted by proosen on Saturday, August 23, 2008 3:22 AM

Even if it's doesn't leave the right shine on the decals I rather have that then peeling decals.

On these two I've used Modelmaster metalizer sealer and it hardly yellows at all. 

The Opel is painted with Humbrol gloss black, decaled and MM clearcoat. 

The Mercedes is Modelmaster enamel, decals and MM clear coated.

...and finally the Volvo that also has a Humbrol enamel, decals and MM clear coats.

The Mercedes is about 5 years old by now, the Opel 7 years and the Volvo is 10 years old. No one of them suffers any bad yellowing, a slight hint on the Volvo that is only evident if you compare it to a non clear coated area.

So my suggestion is clear coats if you want to make sure the decals is still hanging on a couple of years from now. On the other hand I have builds outdating these three without clear coats that still has their decals intact.

 

Niclas

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Lakewood, CO
Posted by kenjitak on Friday, August 22, 2008 10:57 PM
There's always Future!

Ken

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Friday, August 22, 2008 7:38 PM
 ogrejohn wrote:

I've used a gloss coat before on a car painted white and over time it did develope a bit of a yellowish tint to it. It could have been an old batch or something I did wrong but I've heard of this before on cars with white paint jobs. I did this car about 6 or 7 years ago and the decals are still just like I put them on. No gloss coat was used on it. Probably should have as my polishing didn't turn out so well.

Thanks for setting my mind at ease, John!  Smile [:)]
  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Cygnus X-1
Posted by ogrejohn on Friday, August 22, 2008 7:22 PM

I've used a gloss coat before on a car painted white and over time it did develope a bit of a yellowish tint to it. It could have been an old batch or something I did wrong but I've heard of this before on cars with white paint jobs. I did this car about 6 or 7 years ago and the decals are still just like I put them on. No gloss coat was used on it. Probably should have as my polishing didn't turn out so well.

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Friday, August 22, 2008 6:45 PM

 JTRACING wrote:
i forgot, on the real car those graphics are probably flat or semi gloss, so leaving them natural would be a more accurate look
Hmmm. that's a great point, James--so what should I do to keep them from drying out and falling off possibly some day?

I read one guy who said that "in his experience" that that would happen if you didn't seal them--should I just leave it then and take my chances?

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Canada
Posted by JTRACING on Friday, August 22, 2008 3:50 PM
i forgot, on the real car those graphics are probably flat or semi gloss, so leaving them natural would be a more accurate look
  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Canada
Posted by JTRACING on Friday, August 22, 2008 3:48 PM

I always clear my car with decals or without decals lol

since you used enamel paint stick with enamel based clear, or 2 part urathane , you can also use future , this is what i use i just apply with an old white cotton t shirt, future never hurts decals and if u mess up some windex removes it and you can start over

  • Member since
    January 2007
Can I / should I seal decals with Testor's Gloss coat?
Posted by the doog on Friday, August 22, 2008 3:25 PM

Hi guys--I have my Superbee coming along nicely. I scored some Fred Cady (?) decals off eBay for it, and now that I wrestled it on my enamel-painted body, can I or should I even seal it?

I've searched the forums here and at Scale Auto and wasn't satisfied with the answers.

I'm a little worried about the decals drying out and falling off--would that happen? Will a good coat of Maguire's wax seal it in? 

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