My Kits

Hey wingform, they look pretty good to me--I see that decal film you're talking about. You can eliminate that in one of two ways.

1. Gloss coat your model before you apply decals. What you're seeing is air bubbles trapped under the film. Gloss will make the surface smooth, where the bubbles won't be able to be lodge.

2. Use a decal setting film like Solvaset or MicroSol. These soften the decal film itself, allowing it to nestle down on to the surface. Some guys also dip their decals in "Future" and this supposedly helps them settle down. I myself have used an acrylic gloss todip my decals into, and they "sat down" fine too. Future is an acrylic gloss as well, used for floor wax.

Cars are a real b*tch! I know--I've been cutting my teeth on a few here after being an Armor modeler primarily. They're a real test of patience! But they look coooool sitting on the shelf!

Hi Those are great looking models. I know what your talking about the way the camera makes some models look. I don't know if it's the light or what but I have had some of the same problems. But then I am no photographer. I am sure Rusty's car looks as good as the truck to the eye.

Mckay

Ok, now Doog, McKay, Wingform et al out there, I have a question for you.  I'd like to post a picture or two with my responses or posts occaisionally to show something of interest or to help explain something, but my daughter did it once for me and confused me even more than I was to start with.  I'm okay in taking the picture and uploading it into my MY PICTURES file and saving it but how do I then get it to be attached to or shown outright with my posts here?

On other sites they have an attach file box I can just click, which calls up my photo  and other files, I can just click on the image I want to attack and that's essentially it.  What do I do here at the FSM forum however, where we have no box?    Thanks to any that might take the time, in advance,  and God Bless. 

Dave.

well, with this forum you have to host your picture somewhere else.   http://www.imageshack.us/ is pretty good, with a simple browse/upload box (make sure you unclick the checkbox by the little banner ad right below upload though lol) then it'll give you a "direct link to image" at the bottom of the page after the picture uploads, so just copy that link, come to the forum, and when you go to post/reply hit the little tree next to the smiley button, and that's where you can put the image link and it'll post it like mine.  I hope that was understandable!

Thanks Wingform, actually I think that was pretty good, if I print it and follow it while I work I'll be in good shape.  Thanks for your help.  Incidentally, did you get your instructions and decal yet.  Should be pretty soon now.  Thanks again.

Dave B.

I got them today, thanks a lot it'll defiantely help out.  Now to find the time to get around to building it

HI Wingform has it right but if you have any problems be sure to ask for help. Good luck.

Mckay

the doog wrote:

Hey wingform, they look pretty good to me--I see that decal film you're talking about. You can eliminate that in one of two ways. 1. Gloss coat your model before you apply decals. What you're seeing is air bubbles trapped under the film. Gloss will make the surface smooth, where the bubbles won't be able to be lodge. 2. Use a decal setting film like Solvaset or MicroSol. These soften the decal film itself, allowing it to nestle down on to the surface. Some guys also dip their decals in "Future" and this supposedly helps them settle down. I myself have used an acrylic gloss todip my decals into, and they "sat down" fine too. Future is an acrylic gloss as well, used for floor wax. Cars are a real b*tch! I know--I've been cutting my teeth on a few here after being an Armor modeler primarily. They're a real test of patience! But they look coooool sitting on the shelf!

Wingform,

Nice job on the kits, black is tough to do.  You can eliminate a lot of the carrier film from the decal by using a brand spanking new blade and trimming as close to the color edge as possible.  If the decals cross a panel line, take a new blade and score the decal along the panel line.  Setting solutions are also recommended as they will help the decal snuggle down.  After the decals are dry, take a damp paper towel and gently wipe of the excess setting solution as it will eventually stain and discolor the paint.  Another thing that helps is to lay down as smooth a coat of paint as possible.  Doogs has suggested gloss coating before decalling, which is necessary if you're using flat paint, I don't since I'm painting the car with gloss paints already.  If you were to ask 10 guys how to get a glossy paint job, you'd probably get 10 different answers.  Here's my recipe for a smooth paint job-which has been lifted from how to articles over the years:

1. Primer-then sand the primer with 1000-1200 grit sandpaper my preferred primer is Tamiya fine white or grey.  Rinse body to remove sanding residue.

2. Mist on coat #1 from about 14-16 inches away, don't try to cover the model in one pass.  Wait 10-15 min then repeat.  Usually takes 3-4 passes to completely cover the model.  The paint will be flat in sheen but don't worry you'll fix that.  This gives teeth to the paint, giving it something to grip the plastic with.

3. If using a rattle can, warm the can by either running it under the tap or by warming up some water on the stove (not to boiling, maybe to baby bottle temp  I use the tap).  This helps boost the pressure in the can.  After warming the can, apply a medium wet coat.  Try for no runs, drips or errors.

4. Wait about 45-60 min then apply a wet coat.  If you have a way to cover the body do so, then leave it alone til it gasses out.  If you're using enamel it'll take about two weeks, if you're using Tamiya lacquer it'll take about half that.  Best way to tell if the paint has cured is it doesn't smell any more.  If you get runs or orange peel, let the paint dry then gently sand the area smooth, then reshoot.

If you're building a racecar, this should give a smooth enough surface to prevent silvering and provide a realistic look.  If not break out the polishing kit and rub it out til you get a smooth finish.  Unless the racecar has been restored, most racecars don't have a show car paint job.  Why put that much work into something that probably won't survive the race intact.  Don't worry about gloss coating over the decals, most racecars just sticker over the paint, but here's where your research pays off.  In fact some modern NASCAR paint jobs aren't paint but are vinyl decals themselves so a matte or flat sheen is appropriate.  If you're going for the show car finish the fun is just begining.

5. Break out the polishing kit.  These are available from just about any of the mail order houses or your local hobby shop.  Start at the bottom and work your way up.  These kits start at around 2000 grit and go to 12000.  Pay attention to sharp edges as the paint will be thinnest here and the easiest to rub through.  If you rub through you can either reshoot or spray some paint into a container then brush it on to the spot.  Wait for the paint to dry then start again.  Some guys will tell you you have to wet sand, I never have and never had a problem.  Go slow and pay attention, you'll do just fine.

6. Optional.  Apply a coat of wax and buff to shine.

Once the paint has cured it takes me about 2-3 hrs to rub out a body if no problems occur.  If you're doing a solid color, you're done. If you're doing a metallic finish and you want a glossy finish, you'll have to apply a gloss coat then pick up at step 5.  Don't rub out the metallic unless there is a clear coat as you'll ruin the effect.  As with everything, this takes time and practice.  Hope this helps.