SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

glueing spoiler on GSX

849 views
8 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    June 2007
glueing spoiler on GSX
Posted by ronald305 on Friday, November 14, 2008 7:13 PM

   does any one know a good way to glue the spoiler on the  70 BUICK GSX, the kit does not have any holes on the trunk or pins on the spoiler to make it easier to glue with out making a mess-thank you

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Friday, November 14, 2008 8:01 PM

What are you using--tube glue?!

If you use something like TenaxR7, or Pro Weld, it'll stick fast almost immediately. No need for "making a mess"!

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: California
Posted by SprueOne on Saturday, November 15, 2008 11:37 AM
Is the spoiler and two upright pillars all one piece?
Is the trunk lid in this kit molded with the whole body, or a separate piece?

I suggest placing the trunk lid onto the body and tape it securely in place from under.

Dry fit the spoiler so that the end parts that curve down, match the body panel, over the rear fender tail light area. Then see what that looks like. Mark the position if possible.

Then use liquid hobby cement on the bottoms of the spoiler contact points that will glue to the trunk lid. Liquid hobby cement will allow you to move it slightly if needed and it wont leave a mess that cannot be cleaned up later, if it happens.
Re-position in the place you dry fitted earlier, and look straight down to keep it parallel to the body.

Anyone with a good car don't need to be justified - Hazel Motes

 

Iron Rails 2015 by Wayne Cassell Weekend Madness sprueone

  • Member since
    November 2008
Posted by dropped@birth on Monday, November 17, 2008 8:18 PM

i know im new around here, but ive found that 5 minute epoxy  works real well on alot of body parts that are painted already.

 

i use 5min epoxy on my chrome bumpers, my windows, grills......... etc.

 it wont haze your chrome or windows and drys clear.

and i use the 5 minute epoxy because it doesnt dry right away and give you time to get it just right, and the hold is good and strong.

hope this helps

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: State of Mississippi. State motto: Virtute et armis (By valor and arms)
Posted by mississippivol on Saturday, November 22, 2008 7:09 PM

I've been using white glue or Microscale Kristal Kleer when I have it to attach mirrors, spoilers, etc. Water based, messups won't cause damage to the finish.

 

Glenn

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: California
Posted by SprueOne on Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:12 PM
Oh yeah, is the model and spoiler already painted?


Anyone with a good car don't need to be justified - Hazel Motes

 

Iron Rails 2015 by Wayne Cassell Weekend Madness sprueone

  • Member since
    June 2007
Posted by ronald305 on Sunday, November 23, 2008 9:01 AM
 NO the body is not painted yet, but it is almost ready to be painted, OH One thing I almost forgot to ask does anyone know how to prepair the side mirror housing, meaning holding them to be sanded and placing the clear parts that go in the mirror housing do they get glued in last after the painting is done, This is a very delicate area for me here
  • Member since
    June 2007
Posted by ronald305 on Sunday, November 23, 2008 9:02 AM
 neither is the spoiler
  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Portland, Oregon
Posted by fantacmet on Tuesday, November 25, 2008 4:02 PM

This thing is MUCH better to attach before the body is painted.  It doesn't like to stick anyhow.  I personally use the model master liquid cement, which is a consistency halfway between regular liquid cement,  and tube glue.  It allows a bit more working time ten regular liquid cement, and is still nice and tidy.

My way to attach it is to add a couple of drops of this stuff to the bottom of the mounts, and then get it REALLY close holding it with the thumb and forefinger.  Make sure the thumb and finger hange over the ends, and pay attention.  Get it lined up as best you can.  Use your overhanging fingers as a guide to get it perfectly centered, and do minor adjustments, then carefully set it aside somewhere safe.  Next day, use a fine brush and some liquid cement to reinforce the joints, and if you have the inclination(I personall did this on mine), hit it at the ends of the spoiler as well.  Mine has held nicely since I used this method, and it's been handled quite a bit. 

I'm letting my armor modeling sink in for the paint job, painting it WWII German Dark Yellow, and am going to put a couple of BalkenKruze decals on it for graphics.  Yes I know I'm one sick twisted puppy.

    

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.