Quick Question

TD4438 wrote:

Without the use of an airbrush,how should I go about getting a nice,white finish on an auto?I'm an armor guy building a Ghostbusters Ecto 1 for a group build. Thanks  Ed

Agree 100% with the methods prescribed by tiki kat. Just adding my 2c.

Grey primer is great to spot imperfections. Dunno how they did it, but it shows up an imperfection like crazy - you can then sort it out and re-prime. I would advise using white primer over that, under your laquer spray. Most TS's are transluscent. Maybe the white will be okay. But keep it in mind for future ones, esp colours. You get a vastly different colour - they're designed to go over white. (I often change them purpousefully by putting a layer of eg. silver on over the base.) Some guys go as far to ensure they get white base that they go up to white primer, then TS26, then their colour. And add clear afterwards for shine, plus it gives you a barrier for polishing/sanding. Sand lightly between every layer to get a glass-like finish, if you're so inclined.

Sanding - agreed on the Tamiya compounds. Just watch out for the white residue, esp in panel lines! Get that off the kit before you add clear/another layer. Micro mesh system works great! Be carefull not to go through your paint layer, esp on "ridges" and edges. Also - some normal liquid car polish can be used in the end to polish it nice 'n shiny.

Last note - beware of finger oils... Also, before you start, clean off the releasing agents, esp if it's a multimedia kit!

The grey primer is what I use over bodywork (fillers, etc), but it sands very smoothly and the white should cover just fine.  With the Tamiya sprays, I use a method of several mist coats, yes, they will look kind of rough at first, with 15-20 minutes between coats.  Then follow up with a couple wet coats to smooth things out and bring up the gloss (remember to wait between coats).  I'll polish after about a week of drying time, you can lightly wetsand any orange peel or dust from the paint (600 to 1000 grit), then use the polishing compound of your choice to bring back the gloss.  I like to use a piece of flannel as an application, rubbing in small circles, then wiping off the residue.  Be careful on the edges, so you don't cut thru the paint and be sure you don't use any polish with wax in it until you're sure you don't have to paint anymore.

Hope this helps some, you can e-mail me if you have further need.  Peace!

TD,

Like the gentleman said above Tamiya White (don't get the Racing White, it's more of a creme color) over Tamiya fine white primer.  If you can't get the rubbing compounds, Detail Master and LMG make sandpaper kits specifically for this purpose.  The grits range from 1800-12000.  Once you've painted the body, let it sit for at least a week before attempting to rub it out.  This gives the lacquer time to fully cure and harden.  If you decide to use an enamel, give it at least two weeks. Go slow and watch out for high points as the paint will be thinnest there and easiest to rub through.

tiki kat wrote:

Tamiya spray lacquers are my simple answer.  They go on smoothly and can be polished to a high gloss.  Be forewarned, they stink, so proper ventilation is a must.