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Gluing clear plastic

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  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Spring Branch, TX
Posted by satch_ip on Friday, September 16, 2011 6:03 AM

Try Gator Glue.  It's a white acrylic glue that's pretty slow setting, dries clear, and cleans up with water.  Will gill gaps too.

 

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, September 15, 2011 9:28 AM

 RC56 Glue applied with a toothpick will nail down anything. It dries clear as glass and is mainly used to attach canopies on RC aircraft where vibration is a concern. I have recently started using Future applied with a 10/0 brush to secure clear parts. Works equally well and tacks down perty fast.  

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, September 14, 2011 8:47 AM

the doog

I mix up some 3-minute epoxy and apply it sparingly with a toothpick. It works great, and is completely transparent when dry, and doesn't fog the plastic.

I also use epoxy if I need a stronger bond than white glue gives. If I need to mask off transparent panels for painting I frequently need the stronger bond.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Tuesday, September 13, 2011 9:38 PM

I mix up some 3-minute epoxy and apply it sparingly with a toothpick. It works great, and is completely transparent when dry, and doesn't fog the plastic.

  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: Boston MA
Posted by vespa boy on Tuesday, September 13, 2011 6:20 PM

The police boil superglue and blow the vapour over a surface to visualise fingerprints using superglue vapour, ie they maximize the white powdery effect. To glue a canopy, I would try the opposite.

The main point for keeping a canopy clear, I believe, is to reduce the amount of superglue vapour, so you can use a CA glue that has a higher boiling point, or keep your model cool whilst the glue sets.

http://public.fotki.com/nkhandekar

This ain't no Mudd Club, or C.B.G.B.,
I ain't got time for that now

  • Member since
    April 2010
  • From: Somewhere in MN
Posted by El Taino on Tuesday, September 13, 2011 10:03 AM

HawkeyeHobbies

I use the same solvent that I use to assemble the entire model. I do dip the clear parts in Future, then scrap away the Future along the contact surfaces to permit the solvent to weld the clear to the solid colored plastic.

By masking the areas you want to protect, you can then sand and shape where the clear parts meet the rest of the model...such as a canopy.

 

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t320/hawkeyes_bucket/Tips/maskedandbonded.jpg

DittoDittoDitto

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Tuesday, September 13, 2011 7:53 AM

I use the same solvent that I use to assemble the entire model. I do dip the clear parts in Future, then scrap away the Future along the contact surfaces to permit the solvent to weld the clear to the solid colored plastic.

By masking the areas you want to protect, you can then sand and shape where the clear parts meet the rest of the model...such as a canopy.

 

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    January 2011
Posted by 1951b3pw on Monday, September 12, 2011 8:19 PM

Thank you for this tip. Will try on the 1/25 Dodge I am building now.

  • Member since
    January 2011
Posted by 1951b3pw on Monday, September 12, 2011 8:18 PM

Thanx for the tip, I will be trying this on my next project

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: Sedona AZ
Posted by AZKevin on Monday, September 12, 2011 8:06 PM

I like using watch crystal cement.  Available from Micro-Mark.  I think 2 tubes cost about $9.00.

Kevin A. Lawton

Dept. of History

Dept. of Quaternary Sciences

Northern Arizona University

Flagstaff, AZ

  • Member since
    April 2010
  • From: Somewhere in MN
Posted by El Taino on Monday, September 12, 2011 8:02 PM

oldsalty

Testors for clear parts? I glue and tape and remove tape. Never had anything fall out. Do you mean Testors as white glue also?

I don't know if your question was for me. Yes, I meant Testors white glue for clear parts. I never had any problems with parts falling out either. But since I started using Tamiya Ultra Thin Glue, I did cut the drying time of the water based glue which *for me* is a big plus. I only use the clear plastic glue now for gap filling but if the canopy fit is good, I'll stay with Tamiya.

Cheers!

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by oldsalty on Monday, September 12, 2011 7:29 PM

Testors for clear parts? I glue and tape and remove tape. Never had anything fall out. Do you mean Testors as white glue also?

  • Member since
    April 2010
  • From: Somewhere in MN
Posted by El Taino on Monday, September 12, 2011 7:16 PM

Most folks wouldn't venture but, since I tried Tamiya Ultra Thin on my canopies,  I never looked back at white water based glues. Swipe the brush several times and touch with the tip a corner of the canopy where it meets the fuselage. It runs all around like magic. No more overnight waits for the white testors glue to cure.

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: NW Washington
Posted by dirkpitt77 on Monday, September 12, 2011 7:07 PM

   I dip all my clear parts in Future now, and then secure with super glue.  Haven't had any fogging since I started using Future on them.

    "Some say the alien didn't die in the crash.  It survived and drank whiskey and played poker with the locals 'til the Texas Rangers caught wind of it and shot it dead."

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: England
Posted by P mitch on Monday, September 12, 2011 5:39 PM

I've used Forumla '560' its a white glue but worked fine for me. I dont think CA or super glue wont cloud due to the fumes it gives off when it cures which is due to the chemical reaction.

Hope you get lucky in your search

Phil

"If anybody ever tells you anything about an aeroplane which is so bloody complicated you can't understand it, take it from me: it's all balls." R J Mitchell


  • Member since
    January 2011
Gluing clear plastic
Posted by 1951b3pw on Monday, September 12, 2011 5:12 PM

Has any one foound a better way to glue clear windows and canopies besides white glue. Someone told me they make a super glue that will not cloud clear plastic, but have yet to find any.

Thanks for any assistance

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