Olds 442

jimbot58

 Any tips on getting those really shiney finishes?

 

This is pretty much how I get the shiny finish with enamel, the same way Andy does it in the video. It also works with decanted Rustoleum 2X gloss paints, just add a bit less thinner. Anyway, here is the link:  https://youtu.be/lCKZ_fo4eW0 

Also Tamiya LP gloss lacquer, thinned with Mr Leveling Thinner will give a very high gloss finish right out of the airbrush. With LP you can use a finer tip and less pressure, as well.

That was my problem too. Plush carpet with a clear mat under the chair. Sink holes in the mat and when I pushed back from the desk the chair rolled off the mat and the wheels sunk. Today was my first day back at work on the bench after unloading everything. My wife couldn't believe how quiet it was up there today. No banging the chair when lifting it back onto the pad and no expletives deleted coming from me.

One slight difference. Everything sounds louder in the room. Voices, music and things that fall and hit the floor. Mission accomplished.

Stay safe.

Jim 

PS - Good luck 

fox

I don't have that problem any more. Just had laminated flooring put in the whole house. My loft (workroom) got a very nice light grey. When a pin hits the floor, it sounds like a 12"ruler and you can hear if it rolls or not. If you drop something and you don't hear it hit then you have a problem. 

Stay safe.

Jim 

 

 

I am considering putting down some plywood under my work area as it is, because it is shag carpet. The wheels of my chair sink down into it. I tried putting down one of those plastic protectors but that just made it worse. The wheels just make wells and the chair won't roll.

It doesn't matter what I do to the floor as it is already a wreck. It's a mobile home and has absolutly no resale value.

In the meantime, after an hour long search, I moved on. I created a fake with a stub of sprue and some copper wire.

Once it's painted and buried under the car, nobody but you and I will know it's there! And yes, that's a little filler drying on the back of the differential cover.

Nothing will save the carpet in any case as it has had more than a few bottles of paint spilled on it anyway. 

I don't have that problem any more. Just had laminated flooring put in the whole house. My loft (workroom) got a very nice light grey. When a pin hits the floor, it sounds like a 12"ruler and you can hear if it rolls or not. If you drop something and you don't hear it hit then you have a problem. 

Stay safe.

Jim 

Carpet monster got me today. One of the rear coil springs jumped off the bench and off to places unknown. One side of the rear axle is going to get a little peice of sprue in place of it. Doesn't matter as you absolutly can not see it once the axle is in place.

Lookin good!

Stay safe.

Jim 

Pawel

Hello!

My take on that was to put on several light coats of paint with light wet sanding with fine grit sandpaper between the coats. I let each coat dry about 48 hours before sanding, and you have to be careful not to sand through, this is especially critical on any edges or raised detail. Once you have good colour coverage it might be good to switch to clear coat, I had a good experience with the one from Gunze. I have a feeling it dries faster so you dont have to wait so long before sanding. After the final coat let it sit for afew days and then you can polish it with an automotive polishing paste and a soft cloth or paper tissue.

Hope this helps, good luck with your build

Pawel

 

I know what you are saying. You can see the original red I started with inside the engine bay and it has been multiple sessions just to cover it. I didn't like that red. Lots of patience and work on other projects waiting for paint to dry. I know the fenders will call for orange on these cars.

One thing to start is the engine. Lindgerg calls for blue and I know many of these were actually gold. Photos online show both, though the majority are gold. I went for the "Olds" blue from MCW. It's my build after all! 

I actually use Colgate toothpaste for polishing and it actually works pretty good. That's the results you see so far on the roof.

Hello!

My take on that was to put on several light coats of paint with light wet sanding with fine grit sandpaper between the coats. I let each coat dry about 48 hours before sanding, and you have to be careful not to sand through, this is especially critical on any edges or raised detail. Once you have good colour coverage it might be good to switch to clear coat, I had a good experience with the one from Gunze. I have a feeling it dries faster so you dont have to wait so long before sanding. After the final coat let it sit for afew days and then you can polish it with an automotive polishing paste and a soft cloth or paper tissue.

Hope this helps, good luck with your build

Pawel

Tryingto paint and polish up the '67 body. The worst thing about this hobby is waiting for paint to dry. Any tips on getting those really shiney finishes?

jimbot58 - well I wish you good luck with your builds and I'll be watching!

When somebody say 442 I just have to post this one from back in the day:

Have a nice day!

Paweł

Revell 1971 Olds 442:

The box art really dolor looks hidious to me.

So I chose this instead:

I wasn't going to buy the Revell kit, but when you walk into Hobby Lobby and the sign says 40% off plastic model kits, I just loose control!