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Wiring Distributors

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  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Shrewsbury, UK
Posted by Martsmodels on Wednesday, January 12, 2005 8:42 PM
Sorry I haven't been 'on message' recently Guys - I thought that one was dead already.
It's a bit difficult to post pics of something so small to be honest. A 1/24 dizzie is only about 3mm across. Slide a piece of wire insulation over the plug wire - glue the plug wire in and then drop the insulation back to form the turret on the dizzie. Does that make sense?
I know what you mean Blair and that works as well - as I said there are other ways.
I used your method on a Countach to get 13 wires (V12) into the distributor - bit tight and when the model was finished you couldn't see it!!!! Why do we bother !
Martin
Martin http://www.freewebs.com/martsmodels/
  • Member since
    December 2002
Posted by fenderowner on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 4:52 PM
Here's another distributor wiring idea, Martin (http://www.masscar.com/bitsandpieces/HowTos/wiring_distributors.htm). Another trick I've had success with is cutting a short length of 3/16 inch (if I remember correctly) brass tubing to represent the cap, then inserting a 1/16 inch piece of brass tubing into that to represent the distributor base. Next, place your 8 lengths of sparkplug wires (for an 8 cylinder engine) plus the coil wire into the open cap end of the assembly and superglue all of the wires into the tube. Once installed on the engine and painted, it looks pretty good. The main advantage is you can make several of these in one sitting! (Hope I got the tubing diameters right...if I didn't, maybe somebody will correct me). HTH. Blair
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 1:31 PM
Thanks for this idea....I was re-reading it today, as I am currently doing this very thing....and I have one question....what is Slo-Zap???
Thanks...
Sammy

  • Member since
    December 2004
Posted by pattman64 on Tuesday, December 14, 2004 10:15 AM
Yes, if available, please post a pic. I"see" what your saying, and have no problem visualizing it, but would still love to see a "before & after".
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 12, 2004 6:16 PM
can you post a pic?
it sounds like a very nice method but I can't visualize it.
TIA,
chrisj
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: New Zealand
Posted by nicholma on Friday, December 10, 2004 2:06 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by CRASHER

......if our drill bit slips we end up with a plastic 'blob' on the distributor and usually no hole! .......



I know exactly what you mean. Your idea has a lot of merit and I have a couple of distributors where age has lead to some disintergration so I shall try it.
Kia ora, Mark "Time flies like the wind, fruit flies like bananas"
Moderator
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by Matthew Usher on Thursday, December 9, 2004 9:25 AM
Great advice, Martin!

Matt
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Shrewsbury, UK
Wiring Distributors
Posted by Martsmodels on Tuesday, December 7, 2004 5:06 PM
Here's a little idea you may like to try. One of the problems I have in wiring dizzies for 6,8 or 12 cylinder motors is that the 'turret' where the wire goes into the distributor is often too small to drill out to fit the lead. I have read of various methods of overcoming this, often involving surgical tubing etc, to position the drill, but the fact remains that we don't all have access to this kind of stuff and if our drill bit slips we end up with a plastic 'blob' on the distributor and usually no hole!

To overcome this I cut the turret nearly flush with the top of the distributor. This gives twice the area to drill the hole for the wire. After making sure the wire will fit, cut a small 1mm sliver of insulation from a very thin piece of wire and slot it over the plug lead. Place the lead into the distributor with a drop of Slo-Zap and slide the sliver of insulation down over it onto the distributor. This then replaces the small turret that has been cut off ,and with a coat of paint is undetectable. (it's also a very strong bond if you have to mess with the leads).

Well it works for me, and if you don't tell anyone I guarantee they won't know the difference. Happy modelling - Martin.
Martin http://www.freewebs.com/martsmodels/
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