Question about Super Bee decal placement? WIP Photos

4. is for the battery, you can also use 2. on the battery

 5. is the oil filter

JTRACING wrote:

4. is for the battery, you can also use 2. on the battery  5. is the oil filter

Thnaks a lot JT!!!!

the doog wrote:

Hi Guys..... Hey, don't tell anybody over in "Armor" () but I need to ask a question about decals placement on this Dodge Super Bee that I'm working on. I probably should know this but....where do #'s 4 and 5 go? It doesn't say a thing in the directions. ...and while I'm here, here's some WIP photos... I flocked the interior (thanks fantacmet!) and added some seat belts and some scratchbuilt window handles... and the undercarriage...I weathered it; I don't really care for the pristine look. And the engine detail, still coming along... ....and the body--primed with Boyd White primer, and the paint is Testor's Bright Yellow enamel. Yup, I went in for the "tough" color but I'm pretty pleased with how the paint is coming out so far; this is after the third wet coat so far, and I think that after some polishing out, I should have a reasonably nice finish for my first glossy/shiny muclecar in years!? Any input or comments and critiques would be appreciated! Be gentle on this tankman! .......................

hold off doing those decales till next week. I've been trying to get a good break in the weather, and still fit into my brother's schedule. I want you to see the seats he's using on his green "R/T". In 1968 & 1969 they had a special bucket seat setup that actually went over the transmission tunnel. Seems like they actually sold about 800 cars with them (Plymouths & Dodges), and were optional in both the Superbees as well as the "R/T."

gary

squeakie wrote:

hold off doing those decales till next week. I've been trying to get a good break in the weather, and still fit into my brother's schedule. I want you to see the seats he's using on his green "R/T". In 1968 & 1969 they had a special bucket seat setup that actually went over the transmission tunnel. Seems like they actually sold about 800 cars with them (Plymouths & Dodges), and were optional in both the Superbees as well as the "R/T." gary

Gary--I know exactly what you're talking about! I have seen that seat in my research, and from what I can tell, a lot of the preserved/restored examples today seem to sport them! I've tried loooking for them i some of the other kits I have, but haven't had much luck, except for the '71 Charger having something vaguely resembling them, but in a more elaborate style. (I actually got some corrrrect resin individual bucket seats off ebay for that Charger) I thought about putting thse in, but they didn't look exactly correct. I would actually like to get my hands on the plain bench seats; they seem to be most prevalent?

I'm a little confused about holding off on the decals though---why?

I'm not going to decal the body until way later; probably July after I get back from Europe? 

the doog wrote:

Hi Guys..... Hey, don't tell anybody over in "Armor" () but I need to ask a question about decals placement on this Dodge Super Bee that I'm working on...

...BUSTED!!!..now get back where you belong before your father sees you!!!

SMJmodeler wrote:

the doog wrote: Hi Guys..... Hey, don't tell anybody over in "Armor" () but I need to ask a question about decals placement on this Dodge Super Bee that I'm working on... ...BUSTED!!!..now get back where you belong before your father sees you!!!

LOL..........OOPS!.......uh, "I'll be right there, DAD!!"

(....after I finish this 'Bee!!!!.....)

the doog wrote:

(....after I finish this 'Bee!!!!.....)

....I SAID NOW!!!, don't make me take off this belt!!!

SMJmodeler wrote:

the doog wrote: (....after I finish this 'Bee!!!!.....) ....I SAID NOW!!!, don't make me take off this belt!!!

LOL!

I don't know what to say.  LOL.

Bee is lookin good.  Finally someone who gets the overspray on the undercarriage correct.  so many people spray like the whole damn thing with mist.  Which is far from correct, as in the factory paint booth they weren't lifted up these things were at ground level being painted.  Alot of them by hand, instead of machinery.  A paint gun will only go down so far before it hits the floor and with the spray pattern and air pressure wouldn't go very far.  Kudo's on getting it right.  That flocking looks spectacular.  Is that my tutorial that did that?  Looks great either way.  Gauges look good as well.

Europe huh?  Lucky B#$TARD!  If you end up going through Ireland, take me some pictures would ya?  Ireland is the land of my ancestors, we came over in the late 1700's or early 1800's can't remember off the top of my head.  A gret great great(and more greats) grandfather Thomas came over with his 2 sons and his wife Rebekkah.  Thomas if I remember right outlived his two sons, he lived to be about 120 years old.  If I had the money to get access to the records I could trace itback even further, but it's a few hundred bucks.  1726 is when he was Born, in Ulster Ireland.  At least I have a grasp ont he family history.  Someday hopefulyl I'll get to visit Ireland.  Enjoy your trip.

fantacmet wrote:

I don't know what to say.  LOL. Bee is lookin good.  Finally someone who gets the overspray on the undercarriage correct.  so many people spray like the whole damn thing with mist.  Which is far from correct, as in the factory paint booth they weren't lifted up these things were at ground level being painted.  Alot of them by hand, instead of machinery.  A paint gun will only go down so far before it hits the floor and with the spray pattern and air pressure wouldn't go very far.  Kudo's on getting it right.  That flocking looks spectacular.  Is that my tutorial that did that?  Looks great either way.  Gauges look good as well. Europe huh?  Lucky B#$TARD!  If you end up going through Ireland, take me some pictures would ya?  Ireland is the land of my ancestors, we came over in the late 1700's or early 1800's can't remember off the top of my head.  A gret great great(and more greats) grandfather Thomas came over with his 2 sons and his wife Rebekkah.  Thomas if I remember right outlived his two sons, he lived to be about 120 years old.  If I had the money to get access to the records I could trace itback even further, but it's a few hundred bucks.  1726 is when he was Born, in Ulster Ireland.  At least I have a grasp ont he family history.  Someday hopefulyl I'll get to visit Ireland.  Enjoy your trip.

WOW, Mike--cool--I dodn't know to what extent I should have oversprayed it; it's a relief to hear that I "got it right"! Thanks for the compliments! I DID use your flocking toot for the flocking; as I had said--perfect timing!

NO, unfortunately, I won't be going to Ireland! (but me and my girl sooooooo want to go there!) I was raised on Irish Folk Music (Tommy Makem ) and would love to go there and "sit in" on a few songs in a pub somewhere!

I'll be headed to Bulgaria and then Germany, but not sure how much time I'll have to see anything--I'll be busy for much of it.

Anyhoo---the 'Bee can get nice and cured up--hopefully I'll be able to get another body built up and painted before I leave, to cure as well for when I return. I'll still be here for about another month though... 

Try a band called Flogging Molly.  Bunch of boys and girls from Ireland.  Drunk boys and girls from Ireland.  They mix Rock, Irish Folk, Country, and a few others all into one.  It's cool stuff really.  Regardless of the type of music listened to I've not yet found one person who didn't like Flogging Molly.  As for getting it right, I have to admit I've never seen photo's of an original, but it makes perfect sense from a physics standpoint, that your amount would be more correct then overspraying the whole undercarriage.

the doog wrote:

squeakie wrote: hold off doing those decales till next week. I've been trying to get a good break in the weather, and still fit into my brother's schedule. I want you to see the seats he's using on his green "R/T". In 1968 & 1969 they had a special bucket seat setup that actually went over the transmission tunnel. Seems like they actually sold about 800 cars with them (Plymouths & Dodges), and were optional in both the Superbees as well as the "R/T." gary Gary--I know exactly what you're talking about! I have seen that seat in my research, and from what I can tell, a lot of the preserved/restored examples today seem to sport them! I've tried loooking for them i some of the other kits I have, but haven't had much luck, except for the '71 Charger having something vaguely resembling them, but in a more elaborate style. (I actually got some corrrrect resin individual bucket seats off ebay for that Charger) I thought about putting thse in, but they didn't look exactly correct. I would actually like to get my hands on the plain bench seats; they seem to be most prevalent? I'm a little confused about holding off on the decals though---why? I'm not going to decal the body until way later; probably July after I get back from Europe?

well your catching the error in my part was a little quicker than I was (I fell asleep). Another poster saw the correct location of the decales. By the way a MOPAR oil filter is white with all the lettering. Pulleys are generally black.

getting back to the full width bucket sets, there were about 800 cars built with them totally. They were a relatively expensive option, and were seldom ever seen. But when they were seen the car sold very fast. Except for the green ones in my brother's car, all I've ever seen (even in pictures) were black. And while still inside the car, I noticed that you have the "round shifter" for the four speed car. It's actually a flat bar Hurst shifter (bench seat cars uses a different shifter by the way). The hot radio option (now this is really dating me) was an AM/eight track radio! If it dosn't rain tomorrow I'll have pics for you (got to shoot some others about a hundred feet away from the cars anyway)

gary

forgot to tell you that you left the pinion snubber off of the top of the third member. It'll be about eight or nine inches long and maybe three inches wide in a channel iron form, but not really strait. The surface right above the rubber knob on it will also be slight dented and in bright metal. If you happen to do a hemi car later on the dent will be more pronounced. By the way you did get the right rear end, as they used a Dana 60 on 440 and hemi four speed cars. Once again I'll see if he has one laying around for a picture.

gary

squeakie wrote:

forgot to tell you that you left the pinion snubber off of the top of the third member. It'll be about eight or nine inches long and maybe three inches wide in a channel iron form, but not really strait. The surface right above the rubber knob on it will also be slight dented and in bright metal. If you happen to do a hemi car later on the dent will be more pronounced. By the way you did get the right rear end, as they used a Dana 60 on 440 and hemi four speed cars. Once again I'll see if he has one laying around for a picture. gary

Whoa!! "Pinion snubber"? "Third member"? What?!? Man, I have no idea what alll that is! If you're talking about the engine ducting with the carbs on top, I know it's not 100%, but I realized that a lot of that little ductwork I did there is going to be hidden by that big air cleaner. If you could clarify with a photo though that would be great! Sorry about my ignorance on terms--I'm really a complete "noob" with cars!

I'll switch that shifter around; scratchbuild one--that's good to know! Again, thanks for all this info! It's all registering for later use!

Mike, I think some of my students have recommended that band--I'll check them out; thanks for the tip! 

the doog wrote:

squeakie wrote: forgot to tell you that you left the pinion snubber off of the top of the third member. It'll be about eight or nine inches long and maybe three inches wide in a channel iron form, but not really strait. The surface right above the rubber knob on it will also be slight dented and in bright metal. If you happen to do a hemi car later on the dent will be more pronounced. By the way you did get the right rear end, as they used a Dana 60 on 440 and hemi four speed cars. Once again I'll see if he has one laying around for a picture. gary Whoa!! "Pinion snubber"? "Third member"? What?!? Man, I have no idea what alll that is! If you're talking about the engine ducting with the carbs on top, I know it's not 100%, but I realized that a lot of that little ductwork I did there is going to be hidden by that big air cleaner. If you could clarify with a photo though that would be great! Sorry about my ignorance on terms--I'm really a complete "noob" with cars! I'll switch that shifter around; scratchbuild one--that's good to know! Again, thanks for all this info! It's all registering for later use! Mike, I think some of my students have recommended that band--I'll check them out; thanks for the tip!

the snubber sets ontop the rear end, right above the rear universal joint. It's there to help control the travel of the suspension and to keep the drive shaft out of the floor board. I'll try to get a picture of one for you (by the we got some more rain today).

  If this picture worked your looking at a 1969 440 six pac with the kickdown linage for an automatic transmission. If not I tried!

gary  

Oh yeah I would like to add something, this is also for everyone else who does MOPAR replica stuff.  It's regarding the cosmoline coating on the rear leaf springs.  I've seen alot of people paint the rear leavs gold to replicate cosmoline, but cosmoline is super translucent, about like yellow vaseline is.  I can give you some photo's of my Mosin Nagant Rifle covered in Cosmoline ebfore I cleaned it off, you can't hardly see any color to the cosmoline at all.  When scaling the look down, you wouldn't be able to see cosmoline on the rear leaves.  I noticed you didn't put any kind of coating on there, which is cool, just kind of giving a heads up.

Thanks, Mike--the photo didn't come up, but I do appreciate the info once more!

I added what they gave me in the box to the undercarriage; if there's anything really missing there, I'm probably not gonna bother; I'm happy with the finish pretty much, and I'll probably just concentrate on the engine from here out!

Stilll working on plumbing the engine, but waiting on an order to come in from ebay with hoses, etc.......patience.....!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!............

 

LOL, everything looks great on the undercarriage.About the only things you would be able to add are a pinion snubber as was mentioned(the thrid member is the pumpkin on the rear axle btw, and the pinion snubber is a rubber block that prevents it from rotating and binding up), e-brake cables, brake lines and fuel line.  That's about the only things you could add, but there really is no need to add them unless you are going to super detail the whole thing.  I'd say you're on the right track as it is.

For future reference if you ever decide to do a hotrod, the Low E string from a gutiar(minimum 9 gauge set of strings) works GREAT to replicate a good aftermarket type of radiator hose.  The high e string makes a good radio antenna as well.  B string works good for fuel lines, maybe even the G string if you want a little bigger.  I know you play guitar, so keep your old strings, they have a million and one uses on a car model.

Oh yeah! Guitar strings are like, modeling gifts from the gods! I use them on my tanks all the time! Luckily, I have like, millions of them around!

fantacmet wrote:

Oh yeah I would like to add something, this is also for everyone else who does MOPAR replica stuff.  It's regarding the cosmoline coating on the rear leaf springs.  I've seen alot of people paint the rear leavs gold to replicate cosmoline, but cosmoline is super translucent, about like yellow vaseline is.  I can give you some photo's of my Mosin Nagant Rifle covered in Cosmoline ebfore I cleaned it off, you can't hardly see any color to the cosmoline at all.  When scaling the look down, you wouldn't be able to see cosmoline on the rear leaves.  I noticed you didn't put any kind of coating on there, which is cool, just kind of giving a heads up.

The super stock and AFX spring sets I bought were painted a semigloss black, but can see where the cosomoline would help them work better. Wish I'd known that a hundred moons ago!

gary

tsk,tsk,tsk...  Hurst shifters,  bucket seats, and... oh my... yellow paint..I can't even say this out loud...gloss.

Now I know what it feels like when I left the aircraft area and started hanging out in armor.  Oh the betrayal...

Nice work though. Sow your wild oats.  Make sure your wear protection... rubber... er, gloves. Then come on home.

The cosmoline coating was a rust preventative measure, sicne the springs were bare steel.  Like I said though with all the people painting their springs gold on replica stock to represent cosmoline, you would really have to have cosmoline like 6 inches thick in 1:1 in order to see the straight gold.  Scaled down you wouldn't really see it.  A dark steel metalizer with maybe the slightest gold tint would be all that is needed in scale.  If Doog don't mind I'll see about digging up my Rifle with the cosmoline on it.  Or just head to any place that sells firearms and ask to look at a box of WOLF Russian Surplus handgun ammo, pop out a round and take a look at the thin oil on it, that is cosmoline over bare steel.  Cosmo on firearms and on leaf springs would be a little bit more like paste then oil, but you'll get the picture seeing it up close on that ammo exactly what I mean about the color.

I finally got a second set of pictures this afternoon. Will burn them to CD tonight or tomorrow, and get them in the mail asap. Look for two CDs in the same package. We took the blue car out for a spin, and the car will light'em up on the shift to second gear at about thirty mph.

    Back to the springs: like I said I've bought two brand new sets from Chrysler, and they are black with an oil coating. Also (depending on what you are doing) hemi, super stock & the ones used on a Roadrunner all mount in the exact same locations, but are built up completely different (some are much heavier in construction in front of the axle). Race hemi and AFX springs mount in a different location, but the wheel base stays the same unless it's an altered wheel base car. The cosmoline coating is a translucent rootbeer color. I've also seen guys take the springs apart and put teflon strips between them to make the slide better. It's also considered an absolute no no to install traction bars on a Mopar with leaf springs in the rear.

gary