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hi all i was just wonderin if anyone had a good idea on how to make a thin clear plastic,realistic,spinning prop? thx again
Here is what I do. I paint the kit propeller, and then scan it. Then, I have a graphics program that has a rotation blur function. I select the center of the prop as the center of rotation of the blur. The result looks very much like a rotating prop. I use the graphics image to make an inkjet decal on clear decal paper. I cut out a disk the same diameter as the image (the image should be 1:1 size with respect to the kit prop) from clear plastic, about 30 or 40 mils, and apply the decal to it. If there is no spinner, I make up a hub from plastic rod stock. A spinner takes a little more work- it must be sawn in half- a front half and back half around the plane of the blades, then the pieces glued to the disk.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Hi.
I use a method I learned years ago .I make a clear disc of the thinnest stiff plastic I can find . Very carefully dividing it into three or four Blades.These I etch faintly into the plastic in a fuzzy faint pattern with a slight hint of color where it would be in the tips.
For that, my grandpa suggested food coloring because of it's translucency.It works !
T.B.
In my opinion using clear plastic always looks terrible. Most of the time when viewed, all you get is reflection.
I STRONGLY suggest photo etched prop blurs. They are stunning
Oh , My !
Now , the only problem I have with those is they still look too solid . They are beautimus though .By the way I cut out the space between my plastic blurs .I just forgot to mention that . T.B.
Tanker - Builder Oh , My ! Now , the only problem I have with those is they still look too solid . <snip> T.B.
Now , the only problem I have with those is they still look too solid . <snip> T.B.
That is the advantage of doing it on a computer. Most graphics programs let you vary the opacity of painting/printing. You can put it down as solid or as translucent as you wish. For small diameter stuff, I should have mentioned that you don't need to go decal route, you can print on those transparency sheets you use to make View Graphs. That stuff is available at office supply stores.
Don,
I do my spinning props similar to yours, minus the software. I spray paint the prop blur onto the transparent plastic sheet. Where did you get that software you have?
Steve
Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.
http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/
I use Paint Shop Pro, by Corel, as my main graphics program. I get update notices from Corel to purchase new versions, though I find I can often buy it at local computer/electronics stores for cheaper
I have two backup programs in case of bugs with a new PSP. I also have a copy of Photoshop Elements by Adobe, also bought at local computer store (I think Best Buy). Both PSP and PE are typically about seventy bucks store price. I also have a second backup, GIMP, which is a shareware product (pay what you want). It is only available online (Google it). Trouble with GIMP has been lack of good manual. However, the online help is much improved in recent releases, and someone has published a good book on using GIMP. Check with Amazon for that.
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