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My first 1/35 Figure done!

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  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: California
Posted by rabbiteatsnake on Thursday, November 20, 2008 3:07 AM
I get the feeling your a younger fellow, I wish more folks would give they're age it helps put the work into perspective.  That said heavy streaks on uniforms, as already mentioned.  however the faces are really lovely, almost alive, nice detail to.  So get a handle on that brush mark bug and you'll do fine. Keep it up looks good.
The devil is in the details...and somtimes he's in my sock drawer. On the bench. Airfix 1/24 bf109E scratch conv to 109 G14AS MPC1/24 ju87B conv to 87G Rev 1/48 B17G toF Trump 1/32 f4u-1D and staying a1D Scratch 1/16 TigerII.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Sunny Florida
Posted by renarts on Wednesday, November 5, 2008 4:02 PM

If you're using Vallejo, there should be no reason to "dull coat" your figures after painting. Vallejo, if well mixed (shaken thoroughly and when you think you've shaken enough, shake some more) finishes dead flat. And while you could argue that crews in the summer might have a sheen on exposed skin surfaces due to sweat and grease, generaly I think your safe in that being flat as well. Especially in winter or desert conditions.

Panzer crews wore leather pants and jackets and those had about as much sheen on them as a modern motorcycle jacket. Wool uniforms read flat.

Aestheticly I think you get more out of a figure if its not painted a base black but more of a dark, very dark grey and use the black as a shadow with a lighter base for highlights. Transtions should be smoother on wool uniforms. But this is my personal aesthetic. You paint what makes you happy.

As for faces, I've seen "cold weather" faces done that have much more color and contrast and are done well. The more depth you can put into your figures, the more animated or lifelike they will appear and really be striking. A redish brown or crimson mixed into your flesh colors to shade the hollows of cheeks, neck under the eye ridge sockets, the side of the nose will give a great deal of character and depth to your faces. With highlights done in a cooler tone, you can convey wintery conditions. A figure I saw done of French Napoleonic soldiers retreating from Moscow used flesh tones with a slight blue cast to convey really cold fatigued soldiers. You have to be careful with reddening up facial colors though as they too easily start to look clownish. My suggestion would be to ease into this techniqe and err to the conservative. The pale direction you use now looks good and is a nice start to show cold.

Also a question, are the two figures to be in the same vignette/diorama/vehicle?

Mike "Imagination is the dye that colors our lives" Marcus Aurellius A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!"
  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Tuesday, November 4, 2008 4:10 PM
 SteveM wrote:

For future reference on the black uniforms; I wouldn't start with a dead black base... because then you have nowhere to go with the shading. I would suggest Vallejo's Black Gray or Dark Gray, with a touch ok black to it.Then use straight black for the shadows.

Personally, I don't shade black uniforms, since there isn't any color darker than black... I only highlight them with greys and ignore the shadow areas.  Maybe it's just me, but every figure that I look at painted the way you suggest makes the uniform look like it's made of black leather, possibly because the way that you suggest is also exactly how I paint black leather flight jackets, boots, belts and such.  It gives the "leather" the sheen I want without having to go with satin or semi-gloss overcoatings...  It's not just in here either.  There's a number of "How To" books I've looked at that suggest that technique, but the photos of the Panzer crews in those books look like they're wearing leather as well...  Perhaps in larger scales it would work, or with badly faded uniforms, but for 1/35th and 1/48th, I'll stick with overall black for the base color...  

     

  • Member since
    February 2004
Posted by mike91978 on Tuesday, November 4, 2008 3:26 PM
I don't know, could go either way....Think about the abuse skin takes in winter time.  Chapping and wind-burn, plus sun reflecting off fresh snow.  IMHO, I don't think tanned skin in winter is a stretch.
  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: AusTx, Live Music Capitol of the World
Posted by SteveM on Tuesday, November 4, 2008 6:21 AM

I think they look really good. Especially the piping on the tanker uniform. Nice steady hand there!

For future reference on the black uniforms; I wouldn't start with a dead black base... because then you have nowhere to go with the shading. I would suggest Vallejo's Black Gray or Dark Gray, with a touch ok black to it.Then use straight black for the shadows.

Overall, I think you're off to an excellent start.

Steve

 

Steve M.

On the workbench: ginormous Kharkov dio

 

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Wherever the hunt takes me
Posted by Boba Fett on Sunday, November 2, 2008 5:33 PM
I like them. I'm not really good either but your's are better than mine!

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: LaValle, Wisconsin
Posted by Hermesminiatures on Saturday, November 1, 2008 9:05 PM

Looks pretty good to me, I'd only suggest you thin your paint significantly because you've got some pretty heavy brushmarks there.

Also, for winter figures, pale skin is okay but it needs to be pale brown rather than pale pink. Skin becomes pale when it's cold, but you still tan in the winter, too! Don't forget to add some reddish pink to the nose, chin, and lips to get a really cold look.

Jonathan

For every modeling technique that works, I have three that don't.

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Relocating
Posted by Mobious on Saturday, November 1, 2008 4:14 PM

 Hey White R34,

 The figures look pretty good. especially for a first try. I agree about the dull coat. Very nice. Looking forward to seeing more of your figure painting.

 Mobious

"It's a problem of applied physics" Roy Brown

  • Member since
    October 2007
Posted by White_R34 on Friday, October 31, 2008 12:16 PM

Even in the winter time Mike? Confused [%-)] Some of the books I'm getting tips from show that winter faces should be pale and some what light pink in spots. But if ARMOR Mag is rong than that is that.

http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=AP99319

Building the Impossible Is my main goal!!
  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: The Bluegrass State
Posted by EasyMike on Friday, October 31, 2008 8:24 AM

It might be the lighting, but both figures look too pale to me.  Troopers would have been outdoors and exposed to the elements most of the time.  They'd have tans.

Smile [:)]

  • Member since
    October 2007
Posted by White_R34 on Friday, October 31, 2008 8:09 AM

My family said that same thing so I'm now working on tuching up the faces. An getting some of my othere men painted.

Building the Impossible Is my main goal!!
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by senojrn on Thursday, October 30, 2008 10:05 PM

White_R34,

VERY NICE JOB!!  Thumbs Up [tup]Thumbs Up [tup]  From the pics, it looks like the 2nd figure (the one you said you had used too much thinner) has a dirty face...almost a 5 o'clock shadow or just road grime from traveling in an open-topped vehicle.  You're probably still touching them up, but a shot of dull coat and you'll have some excellent figures to accompany your models!  GREAT JOB--keep up the good work and keep us posted! Smile [:)]

  • Member since
    October 2007
My first 1/35 Figure done!
Posted by White_R34 on Thursday, October 30, 2008 7:44 PM

I think I got the hang of painting figures but I still have a long way to go yet as this one came out well and the othere one did not.

I'm working on fixing this ones face. I use to much thinner.

I back at work on man Figure two and three.

Building the Impossible Is my main goal!!
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