Archer dry transfers?

I make my own rank and SSI for the figures with my printer and the Testors Decal kit... They're not commercial quality, but they're darn close... A little decal set and they snuggle right down...

Dry transfers are... well... pardon my dutch, but freakin amazing.  I love them when I can use them (all MG gundam kits come with them, go bandai) there so much better then decals, BUT there harder to use for more uneven surfaces and extremly hard to get to go into cracks and things.

Cosmic J, Kykeon and SteveM:  Thanks alot for the input and techniques! I just bought a set of Medic markings and when they arrived in the mail, I will just have to try the tips and techniques you all suggested.

I've started a diorama of figures from the 35th Infantry Division and needed to make about 12 shoulder patches...figured dry transfers would be the best, unless anyone knows of a 1/35 decal sheet of them??? 

Thanks again for the tips--I'll letcha know how it turned out!  Or I may be asking for help again. 

Hey senojrn...

The ways described above are the correct and intended application techniques. Problem is, I found that I suck at it. And I find that I'm handling the figure with more brute force than I really want to. So I cheat when I apply mine...

For uniform patches, I very lightly transfer the patch to the piece of blue cardstock that comes with the packaging. Burnish just enough so that the patch releases from the film, but doesn't  stick to the cardstock permanently.

On the figure, where I want the patch, I place a very tiny, fresh dot of white glue with a sharpened toothpick. Then, I slide a #11 hobby blade under the transfer to pick it up (it is at this point that I actually hold my breath in), and then place the patch on to the dot of glue. This will buy you some time to position it how you want it. It will also help get the patch to take to the contours of the figure's clothes. Any miniscule blobs of white glue that squish out can be removed with the other end of the toothpick. Dab with Microset, or the like, if needed. Then shoot your figure with Dullcot. Works like a charm.

Hope this can help you.

Steve

 

Dry transfers are easy to use, but there are a couple of things you need to be aware of when using them. The most important thing you must do is mark the position of where you want the marking on the figure with a set of small pencil lines, which you can erase after applying the transfer. This is very important, because once you apply the transfer, that's it, no moving them around like a decal. Cut the transfer and it's backing medium to seperate it from the rest of the sheet and carefully position it where you want it. Then you burnish the transfer onto the model, either with a burnishing tool, (a small, ball-end head on a handle), or as I use, a somewhat blunted pencil. I use a pencil because you need to burnish the entire transfer completely to make sure you get a good bond and complete removal of the transfer from the backing, otherwise part of the transfer may still be stuck to the backing and not onto your model. The pencil marks will show you where you have burnished and where you still need to rub some more. You only get one shot at this, so you need to be careful. Decal solution can be used to help settle the transfer down into small crevices. You can only use each transfer once.

I use dry transfers by Archer and Verlinden every chance I get. They are not as easy to use as decals, but the results are usually superior.

I cut out the transfer, and then tape it in place on the model. I burnish it w/ a piece of metal; usually the blunt end of a sculpting tool, but I've used things like the handles of spoons before. Make sure you burnish the entirety of the transfer really well, or some of it may lift.

They work best if you put them down over matte paint. They don't stick well to flat surfaces like plastic, resin, metal etc.

Getting them to go around compound curves is very difficult. For that application, I would go ahead and use decals instead. If it's a small area, any silvering of the decal can be covered by tiny dots of paint.

Each transfer is usable only once.

 A trick I often employ when using DTs is to paint the area of the model the color I want the marking to be, then apply the transfer over the paint. In this way, I use the transfer as a mask; the transfer itself can be any color. I then paint the base color and any effects right over it.

When all is painted, but before I Dullcote, I put down masking tape over the transfer, and use the tape to pull it up. This leaves the original color exposed, in the shape of the transfer. 

Helpful?