SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

How to remove seams from 1/35 figures?

4429 views
18 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    January 2007
How to remove seams from 1/35 figures?
Posted by Gigatron on Wednesday, October 21, 2009 3:04 PM

Hey gang,

I recently started building my first non-prop driven model, a Sherman M4A3.  And for the first time, I decided to use the included figures, instead of throwing them in the spares box.

Now, having said that, how do you remove seams without destroying the detail, like folds in clothing and the like.  On a plane, seam removal is easy, I use the back side of a #11.  I tried this with my tank commander and lost most of the detail in his field jacket.  Most of my sanding sticks are too big and just remove more detail.

Also, I've read that Valejo is the preferred paint for figures, is there an online retailer that carries a good selection at a fair price?

Thanks,

Fred

 

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Wednesday, October 21, 2009 3:57 PM

I use three things..... a #11 blade..... x-acto small flat file..... x-acto small round file.....I think the files are only 2 bucks each.

then prime the figures and you will inevitably see more  that you didn't see before.

 

Between legs for instance you use the #11 sharp edge to scrape off the mold line. I woiuldnever use sand paper for any of this, theres no control of what  comes off.

I also use humbrol enamel, tamiya acrylic, and model master enamel.....also with artist oil paints....I doubt anyone that paints figures uses just one brand of paint.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: clinton twp, michigan
Posted by camo junkie on Wednesday, October 21, 2009 3:59 PM
 Wilbur Wright wrote:

I use three things..... a #11 blade..... x-acto small flat file..... x-acto small round file.....I think the files are only 2 bucks each.

then prime the figures and you will inevitably see more  that you didn't see before.

 

Between legs for instance you use the #11 sharp edge to scrape off the mold line. I woiuldnever use sand paper for any of this, theres no control of what  comes off.

I also use humbrol enamel, tamiya acrylic, and model master enamel.....also with artist oil paints....I doubt anyone that paints figures uses just one brand of paint.

Sign - Ditto [#ditto]Sign - Ditto [#ditto]Sign - Ditto [#ditto] 100%

 

"An idea is only as good as the person who thought of it...and only as brilliant as the person who makes it!!"
  • Member since
    November 2012
Posted by dioramator on Thursday, October 22, 2009 5:16 AM

 

I use a No.10 and No.11 scalpel to scrape away the seams (I think they are the same shape as x-acto blades). No.10 rounded blade to scrape the majority of the seams, then No.11 pointed blade for the detail (between legs, fingers, ears etc), then rub it over with scotchbrite to remove the scrape marks.

 

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Thursday, October 22, 2009 5:44 AM

Hello,

When it comes to seams on fabric folds, my tecnique is using the small round file. It's like trying to create new folds in accord with the existing ones, along the seam line. Not only you don't lose details, you get new onesSmile [:)]. Seriously, most of the time you just regenerate the folds that were interrupted by the parting line. For tight corners I also use a scalpel blade. Hope it helps, have a nice day

Pawel

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Thursday, October 22, 2009 7:39 AM

when removing seams on detailed parts the first step I take is using thinned putty.  I take a glob put it in a tray and soak it in laquer thinner, its ALOT more managable and doesnt glob on.  takes less to remove it to

 

as far as not removing details, use a soft touch, and a file, dont just start grinding away 

 

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by Gigatron on Thursday, October 22, 2009 7:45 AM

Thanks for the tips, guys Smile [:)]

The round file that you use, is it the same rat-tail file used in electronics or something different?

-Fred

 

Mic
  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: AusTx, Live Music Capitol of the World
Posted by Mic on Thursday, October 22, 2009 9:01 AM

Among all the methods described above, I also rely heavily on my Micro Chisel.

Steve

 

Steve M.

On the workbench: every tool, paint, brush, glue I own

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Thursday, October 22, 2009 9:48 AM
Best on-line source for Vallejo is Colorado Miniatures. Be sure to read the tutorial at Vallejo's website. Choose "Miniature and Model Color" then "Model Color" and scroll down to "PAINTING FIGURES WITH MODEL COLOR." You can print it out for quick reference.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by Gigatron on Thursday, October 22, 2009 9:54 AM

Steve, is it possible to get the micro chisel blade by itself?  I have the handle from the panel scriber (though I stopped using the handle because that crummy set screw keeps stripping out).

Aj, thanks for that link- it looks to be very helpful.

**EDIT** I found the bits on their site - I wish it were a bit easier to navigate over there 

 

-Fred

 

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Thursday, October 22, 2009 10:51 PM

Removing Mould Lines From Figures :

* X-acto knives

* 300 - 400 grit sandpaper folded into small 3-fold rectangles

* Micro-files - the smallest set you can find, with a fine-even tooth pattern-{Some recommend diamond files, and these are useful, (for metal figures particularly)but the 'grit' is too large for fine detail work}

     ~ Like the guys said the flat is great (for getting flat areas flat   &   for large areas)

     ~ The small round file is great for in-between large, soft features like clothing folds

     ~ BUT, my personal favorite is the small Triangular file as this can be worked in between features that need x-tra definition, like around the belt & straps,boot-tops,cuffs,ect. and can give you a clean, even cut, right through the mould line to the surface, right where you need more definition.

     Like you said, sanding sticks are too big for this work, unless you cut them down. They are really difficult to cut however, unless you have a Mitre-Maker. They sell that at www.micromark.com

 

For Vallejo www.squadron.com has them all on sale right now for $2.43 Ea.(free shipping on $100 or more) and I highly reccommend those paints

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by Gigatron on Friday, October 23, 2009 8:11 AM

Thanks for the tips, Indy Cool [8D]

I think I'll try my hand with the Tamiya paints on the figures I have and if I decide I want to do more, I'll invest some more into the velejo.

-Fred

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Friday, October 23, 2009 8:35 AM
 Gigatron wrote:

Thanks for the tips, Indy Cool [8D]

I think I'll try my hand with the Tamiya paints on the figures I have and if I decide I want to do more, I'll invest some more into the velejo.

-Fred

 

Please do some research on painting figs with Tamiya. The paint is formulated for airbrush use. You need a degree in alchemy to successfully use this formula with a brush. The paint skins over very quickly, but is not at all dry. Your next brush stroke, ft it touches the previous one at all will lift it. You can't fix the mess it leaves witout stripping the project. 20 years ago, Tamiya was great for brush painting, this formula is not. Save yourself a ton of frustration and use a better brush paint.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Wherever the hunt takes me
Posted by Boba Fett on Monday, October 26, 2009 3:53 PM
Ditto. Tamiya is crap for paining with a crush. Vallejo is wonderful, just thin it. MM acryl works too, but not as good as vallejo. Besides, Vallejo is the same price.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Monday, October 26, 2009 6:57 PM
 Gigatron wrote:
I think I'll try my hand with the Tamiya paints on the figures I have and if I decide I want to do more, I'll invest some more into the velejo.

-Fred

Hi Fred,

As the others have suggested, go with Vallejo for your figs. Brush painting with Tamiya can be an exercise in frustration.  I'd also suggest a light airbrushed primer coat of Tamiya acrylic first, as Vallejo (when thinned suitably) doesn't always like to stick to bare styrene.

I'd also suggest mounting the fig on some sort of armature for handling while painting. While the finish is very nice, Vallejo can be kind of soft and it doesn't take much handling for the finish to pick up a bit of a "shine".

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 10:23 AM

Sign - Ditto [#ditto]  I have to agree with the guys about Tamiya paints.  I bought couple of bottles last week for the first time as recommended for the German uniforms.  I was very pleased with the color... it was the best match so far right out of the bottle without mixing. BUT it was difficult painting... only one stroke at a time and let it dry before you can apply another coat.  I tried to paint same area while it was still wet and it was ruined.  Banged Head [banghead]  I will use my airbursh next time I use Tamiya only when I am painting those German uniforms. 

I prefer to use MM enamel or arclyic if possible because it is easily available at local lobby shops (they don't sell Vallejo unfortunately). So what's the perfect color match for German uniforms for MM paints?  That's my only frustration...

 

Andy

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 9:56 PM
 ajlafleche wrote:
 Gigatron wrote:

Thanks for the tips, Indy Cool [8D]

I think I'll try my hand with the Tamiya paints on the figures I have and if I decide I want to do more, I'll invest some more into the velejo.

-Fred

Please do some research on painting figs with Tamiya. The paint is formulated for airbrush use. You need a degree in alchemy to successfully use this formula with a brush. The paint skins over very quickly, but is not at all dry. Your next brush stroke, ft it touches the previous one at all will lift it. You can't fix the mess it leaves witout stripping the project. 20 years ago, Tamiya was great for brush painting, this formula is not. Save yourself a ton of frustration and use a better brush paint.

Al, all pretty true and good advice.......but that said, I'm gunna throw a wrench in this thread and say thatTamiya paints can certainly be brushpainted. It takes some getting used to, and probably a fair amount of experience trying new paint lines. I find that you have to find a way to work with each one, and I've never seen any literature stating that Tamiya paints are made for the airbrush only. First, take an old trick from fine-art-acrylic painters, who would put a drop of water(alcohol for tamiya)on top of the paint on the pallete, or even several drops in the cup or jar. Just drop it on top and don't mix it in--that will dry-up instead of the mixed paint. Keep an eyedropper near-by(just like with Vallejo) and be aware the entire session of how wet the paint in the cups is.(now and then I go around and drop a drop of thinner on each one if it even starts to skin-over, not a big bother, and HUGE paint-economy(I love that!)

Here's my pallete for a WWII Russian Soldier(all based on Tamiya XF-49 Khaki)   Several bottlecaps in a small cigar tin. The 2nd tip here is the white I used is an actual high-end artist acylic(Winsor & Newton Titanium White)in a tube(only about $6 and ESSENTIAL for painting with ANY acylics)has a thick gel base, plenty of body, plenty opaque(Permanence AA Series 1) All 5 are mixed from it and the center is the base color, with 2 lights, 2 shades, (darkest one got a few drops of Tam Fl Black)each bottlecap is mixed from a larger cup of the middle color and all of them have a drop or two of alcohol on top.

The uniform is made up of these colors alone

3rd tip, always primer(or basecoat with laquer) to use these paints. Here I used my favorite Tamiya TS-3 Dark Yellow as primer/basecoat. This time with some easy masking I basecoated boots with TS-6 Matt Black and helmet with TS-Olive Drab also.

For some effects, like a wash/filter on fine details, I recommend you go back to your oils(if you can stand waiting for them to dry) or enamels.(I like Floquil) Here I used some darkened Roof Brown Floquil over a Tamiya base, on his spare-drum-magazine pouch

~~~The most importaint tip though, for brushpainting Tamiya, is seeing the quick-drying-time as a blessing to be utilized, and not as a curse to well....make you curse. Brush it on thin, and let it dry....move on. Come back and lay down another layer, but don't screw around, scrub or fuss. Keep the layers thin and even. Thats basic to acrylic painting, it's just easier to achieve that with Vallejo. One major difference I don't hear discussed between the two is that if you  want to remove a small mark with the Tamiya--you can take a bit of thinner(alcohol) on a brush and scrub it off! If it doesn't come off, a little laquer thinner WILL make it go. The Vallejo acts much more permanant, which is generally a big plus, as you can go right over previous layers without messing them up, but as a beginner, fixing mistakes takes up alot of your time(even for non-beginners)

 I didn't own any Vallejo when I did this build, but I do now.  After  I said all that, Gigatron, I say go buy some Vallejo. They are another story. They are fantastic to use, and really I resisted buying /  trying them too long ~~ but I taught myself to get some results  without them.   Personally I think theres a place for several paint lines on each of our benches. I have 4 (hobby lines)   not to mention the artist paints I have, and I make use of all of them.                      Try Everthing

~Indy

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Quezon City, Metro Manila, Philippines
Posted by cooey2ph on Saturday, October 31, 2009 11:24 PM

With a very sharp and new craft knife blade then followed by some sprue solution of need. For the softer plastic like the Italeri/Matchbox/etc figs, I use a sharp knife and the heated edge of a screwdriver to melt off the burrs. As for painting, I personally use a mix of hobby, student grade and artist grade and craft acrylic. 

@ Indy: very nice post there, thanks!

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Monday, November 2, 2009 12:20 AM
 cooey2ph wrote:
  

@ Indy: very nice post there, thanks!

You're welcome ~ Glad someone got something out of it.

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.